CN-film/Rodinal/stand

[JeffGreene]

...After reading a thread here a while back I tried a true stand method with Trix shot at 400 and using Rodinal at 1:100 and got very high contrast.....

Try shooting at 320 and use long stand. This is based on a thread here a few weeks ago, and works well, particularly with high silver content films like Efke.

[FONT=&quot]1. Two minute water bath, Rodinal 1:100 - disregard temperature unless extreme heat or cold
2. 1 minute of slow inversions, maybe 20 in 60 secs, 3 really hard thumps to dislodge air bubbles, very important
DO NOT TOUCH for 59 minutes, a couple minutes extra will not harm anything(the DO NOT TOUCH is very, very important)
4. 3 water baths then fix and rinse



[/FONT]

 

[wdeskiew]

When you use a B&W developer like Rodinol you're not activating the color couplers in the emulsion. You're getting a pure silver image rather than a dye image. It'd be really nice if somebody came up with a bleach formula for getting rid of the orange mask.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but bleaching does not remove the orange mask, it rather washes away the 'unused' color emulsion from the film - kind of fixing process in silver fillms. A c41 color film treated with a 'silver' chemistry remains pretty opaque, that means veeery long exposure times to get wet printings.
So I'm interested too in how to bleach films at home...

 

[JohnTF]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but bleaching does not remove the orange mask, it rather washes away the 'unused' color emulsion from the film - kind of fixing process in silver fillms. A c41 color film treated with a 'silver' chemistry remains pretty opaque, that means veeery long exposure times to get wet printings.
So I'm interested too in how to bleach films at home...

I have a RA4 darkroom, so I use Blix, and have done C41 with my friend Jorge. I do not think there is any silver left during normal color processing, print nor film, so am thinking a regular Blix type solution may strip off the silver "remaining" which is the entire image in these processes?

Am speculating here, am clearly out of my chemical league, so am certainly open to correction.

Should be easy enough to check out, on a frame you sacrifice, in probably short order.

Household bleach will quickly dissolve the gelatin and strip film to the base, we used to strip Xray film to re-use the film base.

Regards, John

 

[Matt(1pt4)]

has anyone used the Ilford XP1/XP2 with Rodinal 1:100 stand developing? I "inherited" a bag full of them.
Might shoot a couple and see how it works, but if anyone has already done it - it would save me from "testing".

Yeah, shoot it 200, stand develop for a little over an hour in 1:100. See this for details: XP2 stand developed in Rodinal

M6TTL, 50 Hex, XP2@200, Rodinal 1:100, Stand

 

[Tom A]

Thanks, will try it out - there 7-8 rolls of the stuff - and it is probably older than Methusalem anyway.

 

[robklurfield]

I tried this today. It looks as if it worked. I have a scanner arriving tomorrow. If the images scan well (assuming I'm smart enough to get the scanner working without help from a child), I'll post some over the weekend.

 

[robklurfield]

that was fun. lots of grain. 400CN rated at 800 developed in 100:1 Rodinal, 1-hour stand.

 

[robklurfield]

 

[raytoei@gmail.com]

rob,

your tree scan is very nice. I tried my stand development with XP-2, and I gotten good tones but a loss of sharpness (see my recent thread). I am not sure if ths is due to a. the development b. my scanner or c. my poor photo-taking skills. Can I ask if the sharpness is the same as you other non-C41 photos as well.

 

[robklurfield]

raytoei, too soon for me to tell. not enough rolls done either way. remember, I just got back into this a week ago. so far, I think most differences in sharpness are more due to the way the images came out of the camera than to anything I did from that point forward in my workflow. there are an awful lot of variables for me to pin my results yet to any one thing (exposure, light, lens, etc., etc.). also, I only posted the best images from each roll. there were certainly some that were just plain bad.

rob,

your tree scan is very nice. I tried my stand development with XP-2, and I gotten good tones but a loss of sharpness (see my recent thread). I am not sure if ths is due to a. the development b. my scanner or c. my poor photo-taking skills. Can I ask if the sharpness is the same as you other non-C41 photos as well.