CN films in Rodinal?

[bizarrius]

MY fridge has around 15-20 fuji superia 800 which i don't really like any more.
Can i shoot em as 800 and develop em in Rodinal so that they will turn out BW?
I've heard stories of CN films destroying the fixer after one use.
I don't want to stand develop if possible, i just want my negatives to turn out as B&W 😀

If not possible, anyone want some fuji superia 800? 😀

 

[ZorkiKat]

They will come out at BW negatives with a strongly brown or orange "mask".

The fixer won't be destroyed though. Maybe stained by dyes coming out of the film or used up faster because the colour films have three emulsion layers.

Trial and error would be the only way to know the developing times. You can probably use warmer temps (like 25-35C) instead of the usual 20C for BW films.

If you have other developers, use them instead of Rodinal. Rodinal may be too precious to be wasted on junked film.

 

[petronius]

I developed 200 and 400 ASA films of various brands in Rodinal 1+50, 17 min, 20 deg or in stand method 1+100, one hour, 20 deg. Scanning can be difficult, the negatives are very dense; the grain is increased, what I like:

 

[ruby.monkey]

Ilford XP2 works well enough in Rodinal. Every other C41 film I've tried has turned out pretty unusable.

 

[hipsterdufus]

I really like that picture from petronius. I would actually buy that and put it on my wall... Can you tell us what film produced the image? Thanks.

 

[Proteus617]

I've developed Fuji color film in Rodinal, 1:125 one hour stand. Tough to scan and might be impossible to print. These are 120 in an old Bessa. Direct winter sun and most likely very over-exposed. Judging from the images, you would think it was midnight. Used my fixer as one-shot, it's cheap enough. Looks weird, not in a bad way depending on your subject.

 

[Proteus617]

Also, I've always wanted to shoot redscale, over-expose a stop or two, develop in standard C41, then scan and desaturate. Wonder how that would turn out. As you are only using one of the layers of your color film, it's as close to B+W as you are going to get. Just pretend you have a +2 red filter on your lens.

 

[bizarrius]

from what i see, its cheaper and better to give em to the lab for development and scan em as B&W? hm?
i think i can wet print them as B&W also if they are c41 processed right?

 

[ZorkiKat]

from what i see, its cheaper and better to give em to the lab for development and scan em as B&W? hm?
i think i can wet print them as B&W also if they are c41 processed right?

Do you mean colour negatives printed on regular BW photo paper?

You can print them, but the results will not be so great if you use the typical graded or even multigrade BW papers.

The conventional BW paper is blue sensitive. Multigrade will perhaps go as far as green. The orange masking of the colour negative, plus the colour dye negative image itself, won't be relished by paper which was designed to react to blue to green light only.

The printing times will be longer. The orange mask will tend to make the contrast lower too. Plus the grey translation of the hues will be inaccurate: reds (green in the negative) will tend to look very dark. Yellow bananas (blue in the negative) can print as black bananas.

Even if the colour negative is developed in BW, the BW negative + orange masking will not make the best looking prints on Bromide or MG papers.

In the past, the paper manufacturers made a special BW paper with panchromatic sensitisation to allow them to print from colour negatives. Kodak for instance made "Panalure" paper for making BWs from Kodacolor negatives.

 

[bizarrius]

i just scanned my fuji superia 800 developed in C41 as black and white in epson scan and i can surely say that: "my favourite black and white film is fuji superia 800 " 😀

i will do some tests on printing on bw paper with C41 film. taking into consideration your post my fellow ZorkiKat it will be long, hard and probably unsuccessful. but im stubborn.