Coder kit discontinued. Alt DIY method?

[SaveKodak]

I tried to purchase a 'coder kit' from Match Technical, only to be informed that they discontinued it! Bummer. I have some Zeiss and VM lenses that I'd like coded, mostly just to have the data in my files. Are there any alternative DYI solutions to coding? A certain type of pen that writes best on the mount surfaces? (Shooting a 240).

 

[Godfrey]

I tried to purchase a 'coder kit' from Match Technical, only to be informed that they discontinued it! Bummer. I have some Zeiss and VM lenses that I'd like coded, mostly just to have the data in my files. Are there any alternative DYI solutions to coding? A certain type of pen that writes best on the mount surfaces? (Shooting a 240).

I used the coder kit for a while with my M9. Over time, I found pen marking codes somewhat fussy, unreliable, and prone to failure ... especially once I switched over to the M-P typ 240. It proved much more reliable to manually select the correct code for my un-coded lenses, and I set up the M-P's user configurations to allow me to choose between any one of three lenses uncoded lenses or use the coding in the easiest possible way.

Having six-bit codes installed by DAG has been the only way to ensure that the right code will be used with both M-P or SL.

So ... my recommendation is to have the six-bit codes properly installed on the lenses. And I happen to know where an used coding kit is sitting... 🙂

G

 

[Gregm61]

I coded several older, uncoded Leica lenses, 21mm f2.8, 90mm f2, 35mm f2, and it worked like a charm on the M9.

Fast forward to the new M262 and Leica seems to have "defeated" the manual coder system as my M262 does not read one lens I manually coded using that kit.

Wouldn't be surprised if that's why it's gone.

Make that two now unused coder kits, LOL...

 

[Godfrey]

I coded several older, uncoded Leica lenses, 21mm f2.8, 90mm f2, 35mm f2, and it worked like a charm on the M9.

Fast forward to the new M262 and Leica seems to have "defeated" the manual coder system as my M262 does not read one lens I manually coded using that kit.

Wouldn't be surprised if that's why it's gone.

Make that two now unused coder kits, LOL...

I haven't tried any of the lenses I hand-coded on the M-D 262 yet, but I suspect that's right. They don't work particularly well on the SL either. The 1972 Summilux 35 that DAG coded works beautifully, as do the newer lenses that came with coding.

I kind of made the decision a while ago to either have lenses coded or sell them. There's only so much time fighting ambiguities that I can manage; I'd rather put that energy into photography.

G

 

[bideford]

When you can - LTM lenses, cheap (Chinese) coded adapters (I have never had a problem with them), Tipp-Ex and a black sharpie gives a long lasting solution.

James

 

[Ronald M]

Third party coding seems not to work well after M9. Been reported several times.

I coded a few by marking the edge of the mount where sensors are, transferring that to uncoded lens, then extending lines to lens center. Blacken and try. If it works, grind out pit and fill with black.

If this is beyond you, send to DAG.

I had mounts from China and had to thin them for proper focus. You will need a micrometer.

When I visually compare all the Chinese pits with Leica factory, they do not match. Evidently that is why they do not work on M260.

All my lenses are factory coded now.

Pay someone to do it if you have few skills. Not worth it to do yourself and many of my early efforts had to have focus repaired . That is why it is not just a paint job.

Do 35 mm and shorter for performance. 50 and longer only for exif data.

 

[SaveKodak]

Seems like it may be more trouble than it's worth! Thanks for everyone's input.

The only lens that seems to 'need' coding in my 21/4 Color Skopar.

 

[RFH]

Using a magic marker is not a good solution. The marks will quickly rub off and dirty the camera's mount.

And the cheap Chinese adapter rings are not up to Leica quality. They are simply not made precisely enough.

I talked to a local engraving shop about having it done. My plan was to take off the mounts, make a template for each lens coding, and have the shop engrave the indentations to 0.2-0.3 mm, which could then be filled in with black and white paint as needed. This might be an option if you aren't shy with a screwdriver.

I never got around to having it done, though. Busy with other things.