Coding Kit - Good? Bad?

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asaiah

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Hi, I just ordered a new M8 & am looking at options for having my lenses coded. Has anyone out there had experience with the DIY kits available?
Any other options you've had good results with?

Thanks,
Tom
 
Tim Isaac's Coding kit works very well. However, the ink on the mount tends to rub off. So if you want to get a lasting result, hand-code and when the coding works, make it permanent by getting out your Dremel tool and Humbrol model paint.
 
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jaapv said:
Tim Isaac's Coding kit works very well. However, the ink on the mount tends to rub off. So if you want to get a lasting result, hand-code and when the coding works, make it permanent by getting out you Dremel tool and Humbrol model paint.
Click to expand...

Plus 1 to what jaap said. The ink rubs off.

I am afraid to do the Dremel tool thing myself so I sent my lenses to Leica. (It's been almost two months. I'm still waiting on them to come back. :mad: But that's another story.) If you have a steady hand then the Dremel tool might work for you.
 
If you don't want to do it yourself, go to your friendly dental technician's lab and ask them to do it.
 
Hi Tom,
I've successfully hand coded the following lenses using the M-Coder and a Dremmel with a diamond grinding tip and black nail polish: CV 15/4.5 w/CV type II adapter; CZ 21/2.8; CZ 25/2.8; 35 Summilux (Series VII); CV 35/2.8; 50 Summicron (latest); CV 75/2.5 w/CV type II adapter; 90 Tele-Elemarit (thin); 135/2.8 Elmarit (Series VII). My technique is to use the tip of the Dremmel tool, with the motor turned off to scribe the lens mount through the holes in the M-Coder, then, bring the Dremmel running on a low speed to the scribe mark, grinding a shallow trough in the mount, radial to the center of the lens and filling the trough with a glossy black nail enamial. It's not difficult to do and you can always find a suitable LTM to M adapter to practice on.
Regards,
Bob
 
When using the Dremel are there any special precautions to be taken to protect the rear elements from the fine metal dust or am I just being a fuss-pot?

Thanks
Prabha
 
A self Dremel job may effect any future resale value...

You might search coding and DAG or Milich... They offer very professional milling option at a much lower cost than Leica... But my experience is that they are not much faster ;-)
 
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prabhagopinath said:
When using the Dremel are there any special precautions to be taken to protect the rear elements from the fine metal dust or am I just being a fuss-pot?

Thanks
Prabha
Click to expand...

I used the tape meant to protect glass panes when painting. Put a bit of paper cut to shape under it to keep the adhesive off the lens surface. Gaffers tape would do fine as well I suppose.
 
bobdubois said:
Hi Tom,
I've successfully hand coded the following lenses using the M-Coder and a Dremmel with a diamond grinding tip and black nail polish: CV 15/4.5 w/CV type II adapter; CZ 21/2.8; CZ 25/2.8; 35 Summilux (Series VII); CV 35/2.8; 50 Summicron (latest); CV 75/2.5 w/CV type II adapter; 90 Tele-Elemarit (thin); 135/2.8 Elmarit (Series VII). My technique is to use the tip of the Dremmel tool, with the motor turned off to scribe the lens mount through the holes in the M-Coder, then, bring the Dremmel running on a low speed to the scribe mark, grinding a shallow trough in the mount, radial to the center of the lens and filling the trough with a glossy black nail enamial. It's not difficult to do and you can always find a suitable LTM to M adapter to practice on.
Regards,
Bob
Click to expand...

Bob- Dremel make a variety of tools. Am I right in assuming you use the Engraver for this job?
 
Hi,

The Dremel I used is a "Multi-Pro". I tink it's pretty much the basic model with a variable speed control. The bit is from a 249 pc accessory kit from Harbor Freight that cost about $15 or so. Working slowly, double checking that I'm using the proper code and that the scribes are accurate before I grind, I'd estimate that it takes between ten and twenty minutes a lens, not counting time for the nail polish to dry.

There's no question that the hand coding will reduce the resle value of the lenses. But I saved more than $100 per lens at the cost of a bottle of nail polish, Leica won't code a number of those lenses, and I bought the lenses to use not resell. I plan to die broke with a used up body, and feel the same about my gear. OF course, timing is the key ;-)

Regards,
Bob
 
bobdubois said:
Hi,

The Dremel I used is a "Multi-Pro". I tink it's pretty much the basic model with a variable speed control. The bit is from a 249 pc accessory kit from Harbor Freight that cost about $15 or so. Working slowly, double checking that I'm using the proper code and that the scribes are accurate before I grind, I'd estimate that it takes between ten and twenty minutes a lens, not counting time for the nail polish to dry.

There's no question that the hand coding will reduce the resle value of the lenses. But I saved more than $100 per lens at the cost of a bottle of nail polish, Leica won't code a number of those lenses, and I bought the lenses to use not resell. I plan to die broke with a used up body, and feel the same about my gear. OF course, timing is the key ;-)

Regards,
Bob
Click to expand...

Thanks, Bob. That's very helpful and informative. I think I'll give it a go, starting, as you suggest, with a CV adapter. Here's to a healthy bank balance and body to match. Best Iain.
 
A few more tips:

-You only need to do the black code bits. The M8 "sees" the shiny flange as if it was white codes. The only reason every OEM lens has 6 coding recesses is uniformity of production.

-The recesses don't need to be exactly the same size/shape as OEM to work. Mine are a little more oblong vs rectangular, due to the way I marked them out (did not have a template, had to mark measurements). In fact on my Type IV 35 Cron, I have one double-wide recess surrounding a flange attachment screw, and all of it painted black.

-Glossy black works too (I used auto touch-up) as long as it's in a recess, not just on the surface.

-I wouldn't worry about permanent spoilage of resale value. If you really have a mint lens you bought a while ago, given today's prices for Leica lenses, you could always replace the flange with an uncut one at the time of sale.

-As to protecting the lens from shavings, I removed the flanges and did them off the lens. The screw holes are spaced so there's only one way the flange lines up, and there are no springs or ball bearings to lose, just get a dish and tweezers to handle the screws and make sure you use a perfect-fitting driver so not to jones the phillips slots.

PS, any dentists out there, if you do them on the lens, remember to turn off the water spray on your handpiece :D
 
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sfokevin said:
A self Dremel job may effect any future resale value...
Click to expand...
That was a huge concern for me and the main reason that I sent my three lenses to New Jersey.

On the other hand, the lenses have been in New Jersey since the 7th of January and they haven't touched them yet. :bang:
 
I use DAG for lens coding. At $75 per lens, he can't be beat. Took about 2 weeks. If you only have a lens or two to code, that's a less expensive way to go than buying the coder and a good dremel.

Tom
 
gfspencer said:
That was a huge concern for me and the main reason that I sent my three lenses to New Jersey.

On the other hand, the lenses have been in New Jersey since the 7th of January and they haven't touched them yet. :bang:
Click to expand...
Update . . .

My lenses are back and I am very pleased! Leica apologized and expedited the coding. I'm happy again.

Coding just makes everything easier.
 
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