Coding lens for M8

[saturnales]

Does anyone knows if there is a pictorial “how to” code lens for the M8? I just want to make sure the marks are ont the right place...

Thanks!

 

[kbg32]

http://www.digital-leica.com/lens_codes/index.html

 

[Ben Z]

You only need to do the black ones, as the camera reads the flange itself as white--unless there's any kind of recess like a screw head, which will need to be filled with white paint. I coded all my wide-angle lenses myself by hand-milling recesses for the black codings (note: I have 30 years experience doing things like that). The first one, an adaptor shown below, I milled all 6 but after that, only the black ones as in the other photo. If the code calls for black ones next to each other you can just blacken the entire area, no need for a division ( I discovered that on the last lens I did, the 4th-gen 35 Cron). I found what works great is automotive touch-up paint in those little tubes with the brush in the cap (however I used a toothpick to carry the paint to the recesses).

To line them up, I say forget templates. Take an ULTRA-fine-point Sharpie marker and make a tiny dot on the outside of the M8's lens mount even with the ends of the code reader. Then put the lens on and make marks on its flange lined up with the marks on the body flange. Then remove the lens and draw lines from the marks straight to where the bayonet starts. Make another line bisecting the marked area, and 4 more lines dividing each half into 3. The ULTRA-fine-point Sharpie makes a line the perfect width for the divisions.

 

[saturnales]

I see that I need to do that on the opposite side of the red dot... But at what distance from the flange? Is there a patern somewhere?

 

[Ben Z]

I see that I need to do that on the opposite side of the red dot... But at what distance from the flange? Is there a patern somewhere?

There is but I found it a PITA. I even tried making my own template from thermoplastic. The problem was holding it in position reliably. I found that marking each lens or adaptor was the most expeditious and accurate way. Read the second paragraph of my previous post for the instructions on how.

 

[borrel]

... by hand-milling recesses for the black codings.

What do you use for the "hand-milling? And any recommendations on how to code the LM-adapters from CameraQuest that has a significant recess in the flange where the coding should go? Alternatively, a good source for adapters with complete flange. I'd really like to have the lens information in the EXIF headers of my pictures.

- Børre

 

[Ben Z]

What do you use for the "hand-milling?

I use a 30,000 rpm Schick variable-speed handpiece made for medical/dental use, with a #2 carbide bur (rounded end, approx 0.85mm dia) A Dreml tool would work, preferably one not thicker than perhaps 1.25"/3cm otherwise it's hard to control it precisely. And I would caution that I have 30 years of practice with this type of instrument, and yet it took me some concentration to do a neat job freehand, which still doesn't look quite as crisp as from a milling machine. My thought was, worst-case scenario if I jonesed it I'd just send the lens to Leica for coding, as they just toss the old flange. (BTW I did remove the flanges from the lens for milling, after I'd marked them).

And any recommendations on how to code the LM-adapters from CameraQuest that has a significant recess in the flange where the coding should go?

Off the top of my head all I can think of is that a small piece of brass stock of equal thickness to the adaptor, milled with code wells, could be epoxied to the lens' flange within the cut-out area of the adaptor. It would preclude removing the adaptor but it would get the coding job done.

Alternatively, a good source for adapters with complete flange.

Can't help you there. When I first discovered that full-circumference adaptors would be required to code LTM lenses, I managed to scrounge up 8-9 of the 9cm variety (that can be easily ground to acuate other frameline pairs) for $40-45 each, before the prices went through the roof. At today's prices, the pre-milled adaptors John Milich makes & sells seem like the most economically sensible.

 

[weser]

Get in touch with John Milich, jm@milich.com
He machines those adapters with the recesses, plus a few other handy things like a filter adapter/hood for the CV15mm, etc.

He does excellent work.

 

[borrel]

Does anyone have any idea of what the code for the Summicron-C 1:2/40 might be?

- Børre

 

[etrigan63]

I would guess to code it as a 35mm f/2 'cron. I have a CV 40mm Nokton f/1.4 and I coded it as 35mm f/1.4 'lux. I haven't tested it yet.