cold blooded bessa?

[Zappa]

Hi, guys!

I've been lurking this forum some months now. And now i want to buy myself a bessa🙂. I'm quite new to photography, but i find it more and more interesting.

The reason why i'm posting is that i want the bessa which is most suitable for cold climate photo (-20 -30 eff. temp.).

I think the r2a/r3a is the best for me because of aperture priority, but i fear its the worst modell when it comes to cold wheather. Am i right?

Dont get me wrong, im not out in the cold all the time. But i want a camera i can use in such conditions as well.

Thanks!

 

[GermanB]

Hi Zappa

Actually the cameraquest site has a reference of someone using a besa r at low tempertures

http://cameraquest.com/voigrf.htm
(see end of page)

I don't have any experience myself in such conditions just I remembered the info.

 

[back alley]

how long would you be out in the cold for each time?

joe

 

[Zappa]

I usually go skiing in the mountains. From days to weeks.

I see 3 potential problems:

1. Battery becomes "empty" really fast
2. Condensation problems (in and out of clothes/tent)
3. Mechanical problems due to the temperature

I can solve the battery problem fairly easy by keeping spare sets on my body, and i can reduce condensation problems by keeping the kamera in a suitable container and careful use. The one thing i cant do anything with is the internal mechanics...

Will the mechanical shutter work better (i.e. not freeze, etc) than the electric one..?

Thanks for your replies.

GermanB. I read the article, it seems the R (all mechanical) worked well.

 

[PlantedTao]

Took my r2 snowboarding and never had a problem...
only out for the day with stops in and out of the lodge, some condensation, but I stored it with a chemical that sucks up moisture (desiccant). I guess the annoying thing is waiting for your viewfinder to unfog when you bring it out...that will happen with any RF, I guess.
I was more worried about landing on it than it failing (my skill level is not that great 🙂)

 

[Tom A]

I would go for a R2M/R3M as it does have a all mechanical shutter. If the batteries dies in the cold, the shutter would still keep working. Most cameras today can handle cold weather from the mechanical standpoint, electronics is another thing altogether!
The Aperture priority is handy, but if you are shooting in cold, snowy condition, the function of the AE system will most likely either give you a false reading (high reflectivity of snow and fog) and start acting up when it gets too cold.
You are better off going for a mechanical system and establish your own exposure scale but standardizing the film you use and rely on experience rather than in camera meters. It is not as complicated as it sounds, just shoot a handful of rolls and take notes of conditions and camera settings. Once you established a "personal exposure" system that works, you dont have to rely on the meter anymore. It will probably take you a couple of days to do this, but it will be worth it.

 

[back alley]

i shoot every winter in very cold temps, like -30c to -40c, but for short periods of time, usually between 30 and 60 minutes.
i have used the zeiss ikon, on ae and have had no problems at all but i have not enjoyed an extended stay in sub frigid temps in a long time.

joe

 

[BrianPhotog]

2. Condensation problems (in and out of clothes/tent)

I just ran into this one big-time with my R2A. Last Saturday I spent some time outside shooting the typhoon that was passing over Taiwan and both my camera and I got soaked. When I got home my R2A, in a wet messenger bag, went to the floor while I went into a hot shower.

And I forgot about it.

The next morning the inside of the VF was completely fogged up and had large drops of condensation (which I can only assume was the case through the rest of the cameras internals as well). Anyway, I turned on the AC in the living room, put the camera on the coffee table, closed the door, and stepped away for a couple of hours. When I came back the camera was perfectly dry and there were no mechanical or electronic issues.

 

[patrickhh]

You can get a standalone selenium exposure meter for very cheap, it doesn't depend on batteries.

 

[oscroft]

I'd concur with those who suggest a mechanical shutter is best (so it would be an RxM for me). Getting round battery failures by carrying lots of batteries only answers one problem, but there is still the problem that electronic circuitry and batteries might not work as well when cold and you might get incorrect shutter timings or meter readings.

I'd avoid AE metering too, unless you want all your snow to look 18% grey. So I'd start with manual metering, adjust for snow (over-expose from what the meter says), bracket exposures, and get a feel for the correct exposures rather than just going with what the meter says.

And I'd make sure I had a second body with me as a backup - even if it's just a cheap FED or Zorki body.

 

[danwilly]

Mechanical is okay, except that I found extreme cold can slow the shutter down and overexpose your shots. It is best to keep the camera inside your coat until you need to shoot, the fogging clears fairly quickly. Bear in mind the lens fogs as well so look at it before you shoot.

 

[trev2401]

FM2 (nikon) + 28mm AIS

*runs away*



On a serious note, get the R2 or any of the RXM bodies. Mine's worked well in 32 deg C Singapore (95% humidity), -20deg C Lake tahoe, and in 42 deg C Southern Thailand (reserve duty training). They just don't respond too well to dings/knocks.

Oh yes... remember to expose correctly and bracket. I hardly use the in built meter for snow shots unless i'm carrying an F5 or something. A teeny gossen would often do the trick.

 

[DrLeoB]

You could always get a Leica IIIcK ..... 🙂

 

[shadowfox]

OM-1, and zuiko 28mm/2.8

*runs aw...* wait, the OM-1 is an honorary rangefinder, so I'm cool 😛

 

[LeicaTom]

You could always get a Leica IIIcK ..... 🙂

Hahahhaha well don`t forget to wear your wool mittens 🙂

Brrrrrrr!!!!!!

Tom

PS: I used a 1939 Leica IIIa in minus 27 degrees in Eastern Poland back in the 1990`s