Color skopar 35mm hood. Question

I saw that--great deal. I'm on my second one of the p2's. The first one was bought new, and took a little while to loosen up. I would just wait before trying anything to increase the tolerance between the hood and lens.

--michael
 
mwooten said:
I saw that--great deal. I'm on my second one of the p2's. The first one was bought new, and took a little while to loosen up. I would just wait before trying anything to increase the tolerance between the hood and lens.

--michael
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From a Michael to another one:
May I ask why TWO such lenses?
:)
 
I dont think three is excessive at all! I have the Pancake I LTM, the LTM version after that, a 35f2,5 II and the SC mount version!
I checked the hood on mine and it is a bit tight - but I dont think I have taken that hood off since i got. which was in 2004 I think (same year the RD1 came out as it came off a prototype RD1). You can probably loosen it up a bit by removing and putting it on a few times - or do what I did - just leave it on!
 
Thanks Tom

Do you feel there is some sample variation (image quality wise) between your skopars?

Also, from your experience, is the hood really needed?
I also tend to keep hoods always on, but this lens is so beautifully small without it...It's very tempting to use it without...
 
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The optical formula is the same between all the 35f2.5's. I haven't really seen any difference in using them that could be put down to optical. Handling is different between them. Superfast "spin" from close focus to infinity with the Pancake I (but also a tendency to overshoot the focus point because of that). The LTM version 35f2.5 Classic is a bit slower to focus, the Pancake II in M-mount is very compact and it takes a bit of use to handle it. The "ears" on the aperture ring helps though. The SC (Nikon RF) is very easy to pinpoint focus with - the longer throw of the Nikon bayonet helps here.
Even with the hood the PII is very compact and that is why I tend to leave the hood on it. It is not particularly flare prone - but the front element is "out there" and the hood is an effective bumper.
 
My favorite is the first LTM Pancake I. I like the short focus throw for street shooting, the attenuated hood, push-on cap, and the form factor -- but it's more like a short stack than a pancake. I haven't used the second LTM Classic version, and the M-mount version looks better than it handles. Its tight focus ring is made for tiny, steel-spring fingers. IMO you need the hood to minimize chance of flare. If having only one of these optics is austere and three is excessive, then I have the Goldilocks quantity, one LTM pancake and one M-mount. They both are good image-makers with a neutral, modern look. But if I ever embrace austerity, the M-mount goes and the LTM pancake stays. In any event Michael you can rejoice in having scored a good deal, and that satisfies both austerity as well as indulgence.
 
Sorry, I should have been more clear. I sold the first one after I bought a 40/f2 m-rokkor. A few months ago I bought my first film M camera, and warmly remembered the 35P-II. My lens kingdom is not so large that I have duplicut subjects --unless it's 50's :)

--michael


sanmich said:
From a Michael to another one:
May I ask why TWO such lenses?
:)
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The hood is aluminum. I put a pin-point of clear grease on the small end of a toothpick and dab it at the start of the threads. That seems to be enough to keep it from seizing up, but the hood stays on the lens unless I need to mess with filters.
 
sanmich said:
Here is the question: the hood is very stiff to mount and take apart.
Is it normal?
Any way to improve it? maybe time will help??
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Mine is actually like yours. This hood is not spring loaded. I think the later 4N version is. Anyway, I think if you press it in before you turn, it's slightly easier.

Cheers,
 
Place it flat agaist a rubber pad or jar opener,
or keep the cap on as you try to remove it.
The hood flexes (and binds) very easily.
 
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