Colour developing kits

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CharlesDAMorgan

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A profoundly awful bit of colour developing from a local lab the other day (every negative scratched or spotted - some with over 200 I could see easily) has caused me to rethink my decision not to develop colour. Add in a darkroom I can use rather than my father's kichen, and it looks viable.

I have used the Tetanal C41 kit before and found the results ok, but the exhaustion rate of the blix meant very long times of agitation that rather ruined the experience (if I want to spend 25 minutes in various forms of agitation I'll join an exercise class).

I believe the Bellini chemistry does not have this issue. Anyone with experience of this kit or others worthy of consideration?
 
msarkki said:
I have as well used Rollei -kit (but Digibase variant) https://www.firstcall-photographic.co.uk/rollei-digibase-c-41-lt20-midi-kit-1l/p3337. I did have some issues when I developed a roll only every now and then - mixed developer went totally dead in a couple of months. Currently I gather a set of 8-10 rolls and then mix a fresh set of chemicals and develop then within a week or so and all is good.
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I used Digibase in the past as well, but for some reason the quality was not consistent (maybe my process to be blamed). When tried Fuji afterwards I noticed quite significant improvement.
 
Interesting, many thanks! While the Fuji 5l is unlikely to be used entirely, it is virtually the same price as the Tetenal 2.5l kit and that I used in toto.
 
I have also used the Rollei kit a hand full of times. Excellent chemistry. One can develop at 25 deg celsius, which makes for much greater accuracy and consistency at home.
 
Thanks all, much appreciated. I've just discovered the flaw in my otherwise cunning plan -the darkroom has no hot water or means of heating it easily. So no chance of colour developing there, curses!
 
CharlesDAMorgan said:
Thanks all, much appreciated. I've just discovered the flaw in my otherwise cunning plan -the darkroom has no hot water or means of heating it easily. So no chance of colour developing there, curses!
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Buy a cheap sous vide and a plastic tub like the ones used for washing dishes.

I recommend the Cinestill C41 kit.
 
Greyscale said:
Buy a cheap sous vide and a plastic tub like the ones used for washing dishes.

I recommend the Cinestill C41 kit.
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Could you give me some tips on that one? I got Cinestill C41 powder version kit. I've shot a bunch of expired 120 last year and been meaning to develop but I had no time. On top of that I was gifted some expired 120 and 35 E100 that I want to shoot and cross process :) So yeah, if you have any tips, would love to hear them. Feel free to PM me if you feel that it will muddy this thread.

Thanks!!!
 
Guy Pinhas said:
Could you give me some tips on that one? I got Cinestill C41 powder version kit. I've shot a bunch of expired 120 last year and been meaning to develop but I had no time. On top of that I was gifted some expired 120 and 35 E100 that I want to shoot and cross process :) So yeah, if you have any tips, would love to hear them. Feel free to PM me if you feel that it will muddy this thread.

Thanks!!!
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This is a good tutorial on the process, just follow the directions on the Cinestill kit for mixing.

https://www.popphoto.com/develop-color-film-sous-vide-machine/

Once you get your temp correct, C41 is easier than black and white. And no need to buy a fancy expensive sous vide, I think mine was $29 on eBay. I put a plastic dishtub in the sink, hang the sous vide in the tub, put the chemistry and a one gallon jug of distilled water in the tub, fill it with water and bring it up to temp. Use a thermometer to measure the temp in the Bath bottle, that is the most critical. Then, a three or four minute presoak using the warmed distilled water to bring the tank and film up to temp, 3:30 in the Bath, 6:30 in the Blix, and 3 minutes rinse under running lukewarm water, shaking the tank while and dumping the water often until it runs clear. Then a minute or so in photoflo in distilled water, and hang to dry. Modern films don't need the stabilizer, I don't think that Cinestill even includes it anymore. I work with the tank in a an shallow baking pan so not to stain my work area.

Here is a shot on Portra from the second roll of color that I ever developed.


Fuji GS645 Pro, Kodak Portra 160 by Mike Novak, on Flickr
 
CharlesDAMorgan said:
Thanks all, much appreciated. I've just discovered the flaw in my otherwise cunning plan -the darkroom has no hot water or means of heating it easily. So no chance of colour developing there, curses!
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I used to have a JOBO CPE-1 and used it so rarely I gave it away. Now I use a cheap cooler (like for picnics or camping) and fill it water at the correct temperature. It will hold the correct temperature long enough to develop the film. My only issues with color processing is I have to stockpile enough film to process it in one batch more less since the chemicals shelf life is so short.
 
I concur with the above - I have a Cinestill TS 1000 - I place in a plastic storage box with a few litres of water in and place the 1l chem bottles in the bath.


They're up to temp and ready to use in under 30 mins. I can then also place the dev tank in the bath to maintain temp while I process. It's very easy.
 
C-41 Stabilizer

C-41 Stabilizer

" Modern films don't need the stabilizer, I don't think that Cinestill even includes it anymore."

Cinestill omits stablizer in one of its C-41 kits, liquid I think, but includes it in its alternative ([powder) kit. Cinestill's claim that a stabilizer final bath is no longer required seem to derive from an oversimplification. Stabilizer is not required any more where a specific type of C-41 washless process is used and where long term negative stability is not required. For general C-41 processing, use of a stabilizer is still recommended by Kodak. Omission of a proper stabilizing bath will result in dye failure over time. If directly challenged, I anticipate Cinestill's position might be defended on the basis that many folks scsn their negatives after processing and then save the digital file and toss out the negatives.
 
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