colour problem developing with kodak flexicolor

leticiaaie

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I've experienced this same problem twice, developing 120 kodak portra (expired 4 years ago, but kept in the fridge) in kodak flexicolor chemicals (same brand but different mixes, the first was in a lesson, mixed by the teacher, the second was at my lab, I had mixed it the day before).
The problem is color: cyan in the highlights and red in the shadows. Besides, in the second opportunity the complete film turned green (instead of caramel/orange).

process was the following:
temperature of all chemicals was 38º
prewash: 3 minutes (changed water in tank 5 times)
developer: 3.15 min (Initial agitation for 30 seconds, followed by 2 seconds of agitation every 15 seconds.)
wash
bleach: 6:30 min (Initial agitation for 30 seconds, followed by 5 seconds of agitation every 30 seconds.)
wash: 3 min
fixer: 6:30 min (Initial agitation for 30 seconds, followed by 5 seconds of agitation every 30 seconds.)
wash: 3 min
final rinse (stabilizer): 1:30 min (Initial agitation for 30 seconds)

these are some examples of the scanned negatives, and a picture for you to see how green the film turned out.

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I would love to hear some opinions and advice since the person who taught me the process does not know how to help me and I definitely don't want to waste chemicals nor film!
 
You might want to try processing according to the spec sheet before you consider anything else... The specifications do not ask for a pre-wash, nor for a wash between developer and bleach - only bleach and fix must be separated by a wash (if you do not want to use up the kit in one session - excessive bleach pollution in the fixer does not affect the immediate results but the storage life of the latter).
 
You might want to try processing according to the spec sheet before you consider anything else... The specifications do not ask for a pre-wash, nor for a wash between developer and bleach - only bleach and fix must be separated by a wash (if you do not want to use up the kit in one session - excessive bleach pollution in the fixer does not affect the immediate results but the storage life of the latter).
Thank you sevo, this spec sheet you mention: where can I find it? Thanks again!
 
I was also going to question the wash stages. Specifically the one after the developer seems excessively long if you're not using a stop bath and just water. Water won't sufficiently stop development and a long water wash will lead to color problems.

I did a quick search and only found a Kodak Z131 publication that discusses their various types of C-41 chemistry, but offers no processing times, etc.

I found this page somewhat helpful in outlining the various stages and pointing out where time and temperature is less critical.
 
It's good to follow the standard c-41, but green negative means something is VERY wrong. Omitting the pre-wash and wash after developer won't fix it.
 
It's good to follow the standard c-41, but green negative means something is VERY wrong. Omitting the pre-wash and wash after developer won't fix it.

Bleach or fixer pollution into the pre-wash will have worse consequences than in the developer, as the pre-wash lacks buffering. Besides, it is easier to determine the error when we do not have to question each and every step.
 
Send a roll to pro processor to see if film or your process.

Then follow directions.

I have already sent one, and it turned ok! So I know there's sth wrong in my process. I started developing my own rolls, because the nearest film lab processing medium format film is 800km away!
 
I use Flexicolor as well (bleach and fixer are coming from a Kodak F2 unit, which is Flexicolor SM) and when just beginning I found these pubs useful:

z131_03
z101_02
cis49-2009_12

I don't pre-wash as that's not called for in the pubs, but I do prewarm the tank in the tempering bath for 5 minutes and do 1-minute washes between dev, bleach, and fix. I one-shot the developer and replenish the other solutions. Works well and results are consistent!
 
I use Flexicolor as well (bleach and fixer are coming from a Kodak F2 unit, which is Flexicolor SM) and when just beginning I found these pubs useful:

z131_03
z101_02
cis49-2009_12

I don't pre-wash as that's not called for in the pubs, but I do prewarm the tank in the tempering bath for 5 minutes and do 1-minute washes between dev, bleach, and fix. I one-shot the developer and replenish the other solutions. Works well and results are consistent!

Thanks! Why do you one-shot the developer?
 
Thanks! Why do you one-shot the developer?

I recall being advised to do so for consistency and simplicity. And it's actually not too expensive to do so - developer is cheap, I get the 20 ltr pack (such as this one) and mix a gallon at a time. The starter is also required with this method, but it's also not expensive and it will last a while (through multiple 20 ltr kits). I should mention I use jobo rotary method, so my volumes are cut in about half of inversion method.

If you're interested, I can dig out my directions for mixing a gallon of working solution of developer.
 
Hi to everyone following this thread. Once again, thanks for all your helpful answers. Pbo: I already have a kodak sheet with mixing instructions, thanks! I want to tell you all that I developed 35mm film some days ago. I repeated all my steps but did not wash between delevoper and bleach. I like the results best, although I have some inconsistency throughout the roll: some have realistic colors and other photographs' temperature is too warm. I attach two examples of both cases:
27191850244_c244bfb06c_z.jpg
[/url]img044w by leticia aiello, on Flickr


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img054w by leticia aiello, on Flickr
 
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