mugent
Well-known
I'm thinking about getting a camera to supplement by Sigma DP2m, it's an awesome camera, but a fixed wide is feeling a bit restrictive.
I'm intrigued by the Nikon V1 for a few reasons, built-in EVF (a problem with the Sigma), it's dirt cheap at the moment, and I like the idea of messing with C-Mount glass.
A few questions....
10mpx is OK for me, but how does the sensor handle long exposures, i.e. a few seconds, maybe 10.
Is manual focusing C-mount glass OK using the EVF? i.e. do you get that 'shimmering' effect when something is in focus. Note:I had focus peaking on the NEX-7 and found it overrated.
With such a crop factor, can you pop the background out of focus with the 10-30mm standard kit zoom, I don't like razor thin bokeh, but if I'm taking a portrait, I like a little definition between the subject and background...
Cheers
Moray
I'm intrigued by the Nikon V1 for a few reasons, built-in EVF (a problem with the Sigma), it's dirt cheap at the moment, and I like the idea of messing with C-Mount glass.
A few questions....
10mpx is OK for me, but how does the sensor handle long exposures, i.e. a few seconds, maybe 10.
Is manual focusing C-mount glass OK using the EVF? i.e. do you get that 'shimmering' effect when something is in focus. Note:I had focus peaking on the NEX-7 and found it overrated.
With such a crop factor, can you pop the background out of focus with the 10-30mm standard kit zoom, I don't like razor thin bokeh, but if I'm taking a portrait, I like a little definition between the subject and background...
Cheers
Moray
Kent
Finally at home...
Hi!
I use my V1 as a "third" cam after my Fuji X-E1 and Leica M8.
The AF-lenses I have are the 1.8/18.5 (WOW!!), the 10-30 and the 30-110 (compact, fast, good!). I also adapt LeicaM- and C-mount lenses (as well as bigger SLR glass which is not that much fun
).
C-mount lenses can be used pretty well but often create a special image effect, such as swirls. Of course that depends on the lens used.
There is no focus peaking, but with a little practise you see when something is in focus or not. The EVF is really good.
I use my V1 as a "third" cam after my Fuji X-E1 and Leica M8.
The AF-lenses I have are the 1.8/18.5 (WOW!!), the 10-30 and the 30-110 (compact, fast, good!). I also adapt LeicaM- and C-mount lenses (as well as bigger SLR glass which is not that much fun
).C-mount lenses can be used pretty well but often create a special image effect, such as swirls. Of course that depends on the lens used.
There is no focus peaking, but with a little practise you see when something is in focus or not. The EVF is really good.
lynnb
Veteran
here is a 5 sec. exposure with the camera tripod mounted. Light on the rock was very yellow (sodium vapour) flood light; it was quite dark out at sea. Colour adjusted for the rock, which left the ocean and night sky very blue. Fairly aggressive USM and light NR in LR4. I've tried to get it looking as close to how it actually appeared as I could.
Edit: I've crushed the shadows in pp; there is actually very good shadow detail in the original.
Nikon 1 V1, 10-30mm kit zoom lens @21.1mm (multiply by 2.7 to get FF equivalent), iso200, 5 sec. f8
Edit: I've crushed the shadows in pp; there is actually very good shadow detail in the original.
Nikon 1 V1, 10-30mm kit zoom lens @21.1mm (multiply by 2.7 to get FF equivalent), iso200, 5 sec. f8
Timmyjoe
Veteran
I've got the Nikon 1 V2, the latest version of the V1. Love the EVF, best of any small camera I've ever owned.
On the the 10-30 kit lens there is little to no bokeh. Depth of field is pretty much infinite. If you have the lens set at the 30 end, then the f-stop is 5.6. If you get your subject really close to the camera, you can "sort of" throw the background out of focus, but not much.
You can get the Nikon 18mm f1.8 for the V1 and it does a pretty good job as far as shallow depth of field goes, as long as you shoot it at f1.8.
What I really enjoy doing with my V2 is using a Canon FD adapter and sticking some of my old Canon FD glass on it. My 50mm f1.2L FD lens is a 135 on the V2 and I love taking portraits with that, the depth of field is very shallow and the bokeh is quite nice.
Best,
-Tim
On the the 10-30 kit lens there is little to no bokeh. Depth of field is pretty much infinite. If you have the lens set at the 30 end, then the f-stop is 5.6. If you get your subject really close to the camera, you can "sort of" throw the background out of focus, but not much.
You can get the Nikon 18mm f1.8 for the V1 and it does a pretty good job as far as shallow depth of field goes, as long as you shoot it at f1.8.
What I really enjoy doing with my V2 is using a Canon FD adapter and sticking some of my old Canon FD glass on it. My 50mm f1.2L FD lens is a 135 on the V2 and I love taking portraits with that, the depth of field is very shallow and the bokeh is quite nice.
Best,
-Tim
Ken Ford
Refuses to suffer fools
I've been enjoying my V1 for quite some time now, but it really doesn't get as much use as I expected. I picked it up to be an everyday carry rig that would be as well suited for action as more deliberate work. I should pick up the 18 and see if I can bond better with it.
Timmyjoe
Veteran
The thing I enjoy about the little Nikon 1 system is it's good for "fartin' around" as my buddy says. It's very much a take along camera (with the 18mm attached) and I use it to take pictures I normally wouldn't try, just stuff for fun, like the image below, taken on my way home last night. You see something, out pops the camera, and snap. I also like how adjustable the camera is for difficult lighting situations.
Best,
-Tim
Best,
-Tim
lewis44
Well-known
A Dandy Little Camera. I find I use it more than my other cameras.
V1, 10-30mm, Silver Efex Pro
Another for your Dining Pleasure:
V1, 10-30mm, Silver Efex Pro
Another for your Dining Pleasure:
ampguy
Veteran
My daughter has the V1 with the 10-30 kit lens. How would this stack up with the EPL1 for quick snaps at high isos? (800-1600) ?
Which has better auto white balance for indoors?
How hard is it to learn? Which shutter should one use? mechanical or electronic?
Which has better auto white balance for indoors?
How hard is it to learn? Which shutter should one use? mechanical or electronic?
mugent
Well-known
I've had the V1 for a while now, I can't really comment on it compared to the EPL1, as I've never used one, but the white balance is excellent, it's never got it wrong, high ISO is very, very good considering it's smallish sensor, I was expected it to be poor, but however it does it, it does it very well.
It's a very easy camera, just make sure the little dial on the back doesn't slip away from the right mode, as it often does.
Mechanical vs Electronic, don't know, I use mechanical, I think there are circumstances where electronic may be more suitable, but mechanical works fine for me.
It's a very easy camera, just make sure the little dial on the back doesn't slip away from the right mode, as it often does.
Mechanical vs Electronic, don't know, I use mechanical, I think there are circumstances where electronic may be more suitable, but mechanical works fine for me.
Timmyjoe
Veteran
I'm using the newer V2 version and it's just a great "take along" camera to always have with me. Never know when an image will present itself. And I find it works pretty good even in extreme cold. I had snow collecting on the inside of the 18.5mm lens hood when I snapped this shot.
ampguy
Veteran
Thanks
Thanks
We have ours set to auto-iso, A mode, and with the slow kit lens, it seems it will want to be wide open and at 1600-3200 for most indoor shots.
Haven't taken a lot of images yet. Have left it on Mechanical shutter, but still wondering what the differences are other than Electronic being quiet and having a faster top end.
Thanks
We have ours set to auto-iso, A mode, and with the slow kit lens, it seems it will want to be wide open and at 1600-3200 for most indoor shots.
Haven't taken a lot of images yet. Have left it on Mechanical shutter, but still wondering what the differences are other than Electronic being quiet and having a faster top end.
defconfunk
n00b
Lewis, nice shots.
My question is "Why the Nikon?" I don't have anything against the Canon or Nikon mirrorless systems, I just don't see any advantage over the more esablished m43 options.
If you want small and cheap, any of the 16mp m43 cameras are nice. I say 16mp not because we need more than 10mp, but because the m43 sensors have basically two generations. The first generation of both Panasonic and Olympus sensors were more focused on being inexpensive than being truely good. The second (and third) generations of both (all 16mp) showed a big improvement in quality.
If you can get an Panasonic GX1, it is a really nice camera for not a lot of money (no built in EVF though).
My question is "Why the Nikon?" I don't have anything against the Canon or Nikon mirrorless systems, I just don't see any advantage over the more esablished m43 options.
If you want small and cheap, any of the 16mp m43 cameras are nice. I say 16mp not because we need more than 10mp, but because the m43 sensors have basically two generations. The first generation of both Panasonic and Olympus sensors were more focused on being inexpensive than being truely good. The second (and third) generations of both (all 16mp) showed a big improvement in quality.
If you can get an Panasonic GX1, it is a really nice camera for not a lot of money (no built in EVF though).
emraphoto
Veteran
there have been times in my life where i carried a 1d miin or two. you don't buy a pair of these for any other reason than they were fast as hell, a genius interface and tough as nails.
the nikon v1 system totally replaced that camera for me. beyond dof and bokeh impact, which is not even on my radar, they produce awesome files and have a nikon metering system. the matrix metering on nikon pro cameras is absolutely dead accurate. you can easily print up in the a3 neck of the woods, which i have many times.
and then there is fast. the nikon v1 is what i would call blazing fast. and sometimes, fast is good. super accurate focusing system, and in case i didn't mention, Canon 1d MKIII fast.
Nikon seems to be focusing on the system and beyond the complete and utter design disaster that was the v2, there are some fast lenses and some very well corrected wide zooms. with some foresight, Nikon could replace cameras like the d3 for a lot of people with it's own system. photojournalists need things like long battery life, fast all around, tough and don't actually dig so much on huge megapixel counts as whilst technology is moving ahead blazing fast, satellite transmitting has not. transmitting files in a hostile environment is slow, requires at least a bgan if you are in the boonies and it has also become dangerous. it seems the other forms of technology have long mastered the finding sat transmissions. so while something like the v1 is not the latest, greatest full frame 36 megapixel wonder, i have never had anyone say 'sorry man, the file just ain't up to snuff'.
come on Nikon, you are really close to a brilliant system. keep on track. skip the buck rogers design approach and go back a step. a few generations in to the V1 approach with the glass to support it and some gaskets in the right places? sign me up
the nikon v1 system totally replaced that camera for me. beyond dof and bokeh impact, which is not even on my radar, they produce awesome files and have a nikon metering system. the matrix metering on nikon pro cameras is absolutely dead accurate. you can easily print up in the a3 neck of the woods, which i have many times.
and then there is fast. the nikon v1 is what i would call blazing fast. and sometimes, fast is good. super accurate focusing system, and in case i didn't mention, Canon 1d MKIII fast.
Nikon seems to be focusing on the system and beyond the complete and utter design disaster that was the v2, there are some fast lenses and some very well corrected wide zooms. with some foresight, Nikon could replace cameras like the d3 for a lot of people with it's own system. photojournalists need things like long battery life, fast all around, tough and don't actually dig so much on huge megapixel counts as whilst technology is moving ahead blazing fast, satellite transmitting has not. transmitting files in a hostile environment is slow, requires at least a bgan if you are in the boonies and it has also become dangerous. it seems the other forms of technology have long mastered the finding sat transmissions. so while something like the v1 is not the latest, greatest full frame 36 megapixel wonder, i have never had anyone say 'sorry man, the file just ain't up to snuff'.
come on Nikon, you are really close to a brilliant system. keep on track. skip the buck rogers design approach and go back a step. a few generations in to the V1 approach with the glass to support it and some gaskets in the right places? sign me up
emraphoto
Veteran
another brilliant photojournalism moment. mechanical - faster flash synch. you can dial your daylight fill.
the v1 auto white balance has been 100% reliable in my experience. which doesn't ever involve strobes.
iso 1600 from the v1? well, try one. they are cheap as chips and in my opinion, a genius tool for certain times.
emraphoto
Veteran
with Nikon's metering system and loads of flash synch flexibility, you have a whole other world of tools at your disposal for isolating subject. play with your iso for ambient. go to town.
i don't work for nikon. it just seems as though they have stumbled very close to a really revolutionary camera system. if they can avoid painting it pink and succumbing to the endless internet blather by folks who will never come close to putting their gear to task... oh the possibilities.
tomtofa
Well-known
As to comparing them to M4/3s, the 1 is smaller, cheaper (V1, anyway), and has an EVF that beats any other small camera. The resolution isn't near larger formats, but the color balance, metering, and white balance are easily as good as APC. Focus is as fast as a good M4/3.
I think 1600 is reasonable with it - I find that with 2000+ I have to work harder in PP, and what comes out is sometimes more a sketch than a painting . . .
Here's one at 1600 from before dawn this morning. It came out pretty much as I saw it:
I think 1600 is reasonable with it - I find that with 2000+ I have to work harder in PP, and what comes out is sometimes more a sketch than a painting . . .
Here's one at 1600 from before dawn this morning. It came out pretty much as I saw it:
emraphoto
Veteran
As to comparing them to M4/3s, the 1 is smaller, cheaper (V1, anyway), and has an EVF that beats any other small camera. The resolution isn't near larger formats, but the color balance, metering, and white balance are easily as good as APC. Focus is as fast as a good M4/3.
I think 1600 is reasonable with it - I find that with 2000+ I have to work harder in PP, and what comes out is sometimes more a sketch than a painting . . .
Here's one at 1600 from before dawn this morning. It came out pretty much as I saw it:
the v1 obviously has it's limitations. if a little noise at 3200 bothers you, looks elsewhere for sure.
some would argue the olympus om-d would be a more modern incarnation and it is/was a close contender for me. sadly Olympus just hasn't jumped on board with well thought out and implemented video yet. the Olympus approach to onboard audio recording is frustrating at best.