Complete Newbie....

[Rezultz]

wow. great reference website. Thank you!

 

[Roger Hicks]

I really wouldn't choose one film and stick to it until you've played the field a bit. Chances are, one film from the range that you try will jump out at you as giving the look you want. If it does, that's the one to stick with (even if it's only beginner's luck). Choosing One Film, on someone else's recommendation, is rash in my reckoning. You might care to look at http://www.rogerandfrances.com/subscription/choosing bw films.html for some general considerations on choosing films, though one or two of those mentioned are no longer available.

Cheers,

R.

 

[Rezultz]

Roger - Thoroughly enjoyed reading your website. Learned a lot. Thank you.

 

[Rezultz]

What are the advantages of 1:1 solution vs. stock? (aside from using the developer more sparingly)
Also, I noticed that the Kodak D76 pdf guide has different developing times for small tank and large tank. However, digitaltruth website only lists one developing time for each film. What would be the correct time in a small tank for HP5+ if I use 1:1?
Sorry for all the questions btw...I want to have the entire process crystal clear for my first attempt this weekend. Thanks!

 

[FrankS]

Massive Dev Chart Search Results
Film Developer Dilution ASA/ISO 35mm 120 Sheet Temp Notes
HP5+ D-76 1+2 200 12.5 20C
HP5+ D-76 1+3 200 14 20C [notes]
HP5+ D-76 stock 400 7.5 7.5 7.5 20C
HP5+ D-76 1+1 400 13 13 13 20C
HP5+ D-76 1+3 400 20 20 20 20C
HP5+ D-76 stock 800 10.5 10.5 10.5 20C
HP5+ D-76 1+1 800 16.5 16.5 16.5 20C
HP5+ D-76 stock 1600 14 14 14 20C
HP5+ D-76 1+1 1600 18 20C

The Massive Dev Chart

Looks like 13 minutes.

 

[Roger Hicks]

What are the advantages of 1:1 solution vs. stock? (aside from using the developer more sparingly)
Also, I noticed that the Kodak D76 pdf guide has different developing times for small tank and large tank. However, digitaltruth website only lists one developing time for each film. What would be the correct time in a small tank for HP5+ if I use 1:1?
Sorry for all the questions btw...I want to have the entire process crystal clear for my first attempt this weekend. Thanks!

1:1 used 1-shot gives slightly more speed, slightly coarser grain, greater consistency. Re-using stock (and extending dev time each time) is cheaper. Re-using and replenishing stock in a large tank is very cheap, quick, consistent and easy if you're processing huge amounts of film (think 1950s newspaper darkroom) but wipes about a stop off film speed because of bromide build-up.

'Large tank' means 'huge tank' -- the sort you drop the film into in racks (typically 1-4 gallons of each chemical in a processing line). 'Small tank' is the only figure you'll need.

Glad you found the site useful.

Cheers,

R.

 

[ibcrewin]

This weekend?! Do it tonight! Just do it! Stay up late and git her done

 

[venchka]

What are the advantages of 1:1 solution vs. stock? (aside from using the developer more sparingly)
Also, I noticed that the Kodak D76 pdf guide has different developing times for small tank and large tank. However, digitaltruth website only lists one developing time for each film. What would be the correct time in a small tank for HP5+ if I use 1:1?
Sorry for all the questions btw...I want to have the entire process crystal clear for my first attempt this weekend. Thanks!

Personal testing. It's the only way to know for sure. Start with Kodak's or the Massive Chart times. Adjust to suit your taste, gear & methods.

HP5+ exposed at ASA 250 and developed for 10 minutes in a variety of developers works for me. Including D-76 1:1, Xtol 1:3 and Rodinal 1:50. YMMV.

Don't keep your Photo-Flo solution too long. Sooner or later it will grow pink crud. Buy it in the 16oz size and use it once. Maybe keep it a week. It's cheap. Chemicals are the least expensive part of the puzzle. Bad chemicals are the most expensive thing that can happen to you. Don't skimp on chemistry.

 

[Rezultz]

Alright...so I just got the shipment of my chemistry. Now I'm going over my checklist and I've written down all the procedures, times, etc. Before I get started I do have a few questions. First, I purchased a gallon of distilled water. Which chemicals do I need to use with distilled water? Is it just the final rinse or should I use it throughout? I'm also not sure about the exact time or amount of photo-flo to use. Dilution is 1:200. How the heck am I going to measure that??? I'm using a two reel small developing tank. How many drops would that require? Also, Ilford Rapid Fixer's recommended time is 2-5 minutes. Should I just go for 3? I'll paste my procedure below. If anyone see anything wrong or any corrections please post. I'm gonna start to soup this up in a few hours. Thanks so much.


Kodak D76
Dilution: 1:1 (of premade stock)
Temp: 68f/20c
Time: depends on film:
Ilford HP5+ = 13:00
Kodak Tri-x 400 = 9:45
Kodak TMax 400 = 12:30
Fuji Neopan 400 = 9:30
Agitation: Tap for air bubbles, invert 5 times and repeat every 30 seconds.
Pour out developer and pour in the Ilfostop Stop Bath
Ilfostop Stop Bath
Dilution: 1:19
Temp: 68f/20c
Time: 10 seconds
Agitation: Invert tank twice
Pour out Stop Bath and pour in Ilford Rapid Fixer
Ilford Rapid Fixer
Dilution: 4:1
Temp: 68f/20c
Time: 2 – 5 Min I’ll try 3 min????
Agitation: 4 inversions during first 10 seconds, then repeating again at the start of each minute.
Pour out Rapid Fixer into storage bottle.
Water Rinse
Fill the tank with water, invert 5 times, dump. Refill, invert 10 times, dump. Refill invert 20 times, dump.
Kodak Photo-Flo 200
Dilution: 1:200
Temp: ?
Time: ?
Agitation: ?

 

[Rezultz]

Finished my first self-developed roll of film! I'd like to thank everyone on this site for sharing information and helping a noob like me out.
The process definitely didn't go smoothly. 🙂 I practiced getting the roll onto the developing spool enough times so I went into the bathroom, shut the lights, and.....it took me 30 minutes! 1/2 way onto the spool the film would somehow pop off the bearings and stop advancing further. Getting it back onto the ball bearings is not an easy feat in pitch blackness so I kept opening the spool and starting from scratch. I was ready to turn on the lights and throw the damn thing against the wall at one point.
Anyway, I only had two real snags in the whole process. Besides getting the film on the reel, I couldn't get the temp of all my liquids to 68 degrees (the temp of the room and chemicals was 70) with only one thermometer. This took some time. The second was something I found out after my film had already dried. I had watermarks everywhere (even though i used two drops of photo flo) and the hanging clamps i used damaged the frames from which they were clipped. Lesson learned. After doing some research, it may be that the water marked are due to the fact that i squeegeed the film with my fingers before it was hung. Won't do that next time.
Anyway, thanks again. Have two rolls to practice on tonight.

 

[ibcrewin]

Nice! Where did you hang your film?

 

[Rezultz]

Hung from the shower rod in 10 frame pieces.

 

[VTHokiEE]

I'm about to be a first time developer. I just received all the chemicals and some tri-x in the mail. Now just have to shot a roll or two and get started. This was a useful thread and is encouraging for me, I decided on HC-110 for the long shelf life if used as a single shot. If you care to post any scans I'd be interested in seeing them to see how it all came out (and hopefully what I can expect).

I have a feeling, I'm going to replicate your 30 minute tank preparation...

 

[Rezultz]

Hey VTHokiEE -
The whole process is extremely easy. I'm sure you'll make a few mistakes the first time. The hardest part for me is putting the film on the reel in the dark...especially 120 film! I did find a trick (read about it here on RFF) regarding loading 35mm film which makes the process 3 min tops: When you rewind your film, stop right before the leader goes into the roll. Or, you can buy a leader retriever sold at most camera shops online. Take your exposed roll, cut off the leader, and load the first few inches onto the ball bearings of a Paterson-type tank. Once the hard part is over you can go into the dark and load the rest of your film onto the reel. 3 min process.

Here's a scan using the process outline above from a Yashica Mat TLR and Tmax 100 film. Good Luck!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/itsmeboris/5367867921

 

[Rezultz]

btw, if anyone can tell me how to post a pic from flickr directly onto the thread i'd appreciate it.

 

[wblynch]

A tip that has really helped me is to round off the corners of the film before putting it on the spool. The rounded edges really help prevent snags and the film goes on much more easily.

Don't cut your strip until after it's dried. The emulsion is too soft and you risk a lot of damage.

 

[calebk]

...
Don't cut your strip until after it's dried. The emulsion is too soft and you risk a lot of damage.

When would it be safe to handle the emulsion side, if ever? I got scratches on a few of my exposures though I'm not exactly sure when I caused them.

 

[VTHokiEE]

Hey VTHokiEE -
Here's a scan using the process outline above from a Yashica Mat TLR and Tmax 100 film. Good Luck!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/itsmeboris/5367867921

Thanks a lot, that's a very nice shot (been thinking about getting a Yashica Mat also, but one thing at a time). Thanks for the tips, I'm very excited!

 

[venchka]

When would it be safe to handle the emulsion side, if ever? I got scratches on a few of my exposures though I'm not exactly sure when I caused them.

I tried 4 hours. Too soon. Emulsion was still soft. 5 hours was no better. I have now decided to wait 24 hours before handling film. Many will jump up and down. Shout. Holler. Too long! I can hear Roger's fingers typing already. All I know is, 24 hours works for me and my negatives. That is all I care about.
YMMV.

 

[venchka]

ps: The 24 hours is the time I hang the negatives before cutting/scanning/sleeving. I try real hard not to ever touch the emulsion.