Compur Synchro Lubricants

[Ron G]

It's not what I like but all that I have right now.I seriously doubt that I will "drown" it but if I do I will have learned something.I appreciate your input and will have to search for the fishtails.Thanks.I agree on the setup,I still have much to learn about it.Ron G

 

[FallisPhoto]

the proper oil dispensers are all about control, thats why watchmakers use them, the workings in watches are much more delicate and require precision...the next best is the fish tails, they will only cost a couple of dollars each and are well worth it, they give good control of the amount of oil, bigger fish tail for more oil, they come in different sizes..there is a chance you are going to drown the shutter using a toothpick and slow it down not to mention need to clean it after your done..but if thats what you like *shrugs* okey dokey, just trying to help 🙂

you should be able to get pretty much your max speed with it dry, if you cant you may not have it setup correct yet--the lube will help but it is about preventing wear as well

Hypodermic needles work pretty well too.

 

[hanskerensky]

Just found this article about MoS2 powder. Could be interesting alternative to graphite :

http://graflex.org/speed-graphic/lubricants.html

 

[Papa Smurf]

Graphite is not a "cure all" lubricant!

Graphite is not a "cure all" lubricant!

Hello Ron,

...........I think solvent mixed with graphite powder as advocated by Tomosy is a really BAD idea! Once it has dried, what you will be left with is just loose graphite powder floating around.

Steve.

Graphite is a wonderful lubricant, where it is designed to be used, as in heavy gear trains, flexible cables ,and similar applications. What few people do not realize is that graphite is slick because it consists of very thin flat platelets that slide over each other very smoothly. The down side is that graphite flakes are also very hard. Much harder than many of the materials to which they are so unceremoniously applied. Do not apply graphite in any form to Aluminum, soft steel, or Brass. It will cut through the "hardened" (anodized, casehardened, or burnished) surface and then rapidly wear the underlying metal away.

Over the years several owners of expensive synthetic firearms have lamented that after applying graphite mixed with Lubri-plate grease, the weapon just wore out. Eaten up by the slick, but abrasive graphite held in suspension by the grease.😱

 

[Ron G]

Just found this article about MoS2 powder. Could be interesting alternative to graphite :

http://graflex.org/speed-graphic/lubricants.html

This is interesting info...........There is so much out there that we do not know about and these forums are such a big help to us all.Thanks.Ron G

 

[hanskerensky]

Just a practical joke. I know, bad for my image, but i couldn't resist !

 

[Ron G]

LOL,you're really looking for trouble now.I did not hear anything from Deckel which seems kind of rude but they probably get several requests a week for this info and it gets old after a while.
That was a lot of work for a giggle.Thanks,smiling now.Ron G

 

[Gumby]

... I did not hear anything from Deckel which seems kind of rude...

There may be more up-to-date information, but here's something that may be of interest.

F. Deckel was a German company based in Munich. It was founded in 1903 by the mechanician Friedrich Deckel and the inventor Christian Bruns as Bruns & Deckel. In 1905 Bruns left the company. In its earliest years it launched the first of its famous leaf shutters. Then it started making machine-tools and injection pumps. With its Compur shutter it became the technology leading maker of leaf shutters. In 1952 the company had 3000 employees. At the end of the 1950s its production became focused on the machine-tools. In 1994 it ended in bankruptcy.

 

[sevo]

Deckel and competitor Gauthier (Prontor) were controlled by the Zeiss holding ever since the twenties, and within Zeiss, shutter activities were merged at Prontor some time before the remaining precision mechanics division of Deckel was sold off (it was successor Deckel-Maho who eventually went bankrupt, but it was bought up by Gildemeister and continues to be one of the biggest manufacturers of computer controlled lathes world wide).

Prontor do still produce shutter components, but only for Zeiss, Schneider and some medium and large format camera makers - they do not provide shutters or service to dealers and users any more. If any, you'd have to address historical questions to their public relations department.

Sevo

 

[hanskerensky]

Deckel was sold off (it was successor Deckel-Maho who eventually went bankrupt, but it was bought up by Gildemeister and continues to be one of the biggest manufacturers of computer controlled lathes world wide).

Sevo

Yes, i know, we still have severall of these Deckel-Maho's at our factory. Even used to programm their Heidenhains in the old days.

 

[Ron G]

Here is the reply that I got from Aaron in Germany and that is who I emailed for whatever handout I might be eligible for.Ron G
"Hey Ron I googled it a little bit and it seems that Deckel got bankrupt in 1994 after the combined with a company called Maho. But it seems that after they got bankrupt they are now part of Gildemeister AG.

It also says that they stopped building the shutters in 1976, but the Prontor company which was owned by Alfred Gauthier in Calw keept producing them.

Hope that helped a little bit

Good luck!

Aaron"

 

[hanskerensky]

Hi Ron, so Sevo was right about how the history of Deckel went ! Glad we also now have some year-numbers !

Prontor not giving service to their old shutters any more means we have to do things ourselves. So, back to testing my Schmierstof replacement.

btw Link to Prontor :
http://www.prontor.de/go/home/english.html

 

[Ron G]

You better patent that before the word gets out,you will be a wealthy man!!
Thanks for the link.I have several Vito Cl/CLR to do when I can get to them.Ron G

 

[Ron (Netherlands)]

Always used watch oil after cleaning with lighterfuel with succes.

 

[hanskerensky]

Always used watch oil after cleaning with lighterfuel with succes.

Ron, did you follow for your application of the watch oil the lubrication schematics of the Compur manuals ? Just wondering because there you see the Lubricant A used on many places.

Also, do you dilute the watch oil or just give very tiny amounts of it ?

 

[Ron (Netherlands)]

Ron, did you follow for your application of the watch oil the lubrication schematics of the Compur manuals ? Just wondering because there you see the Lubricant A used on many places.

Also, do you dilute the watch oil or just give very tiny amounts of it ?

Well. I do not delute since it is already a very 'soft' oil. Indeed the places indicated with an A have been treated.

 

[FallisPhoto]

i use watch oil mostly, not to be confused with 'clock oil' or gun oil which is heavier...

Speaking as a former gunsmith, there are all kinds of gun oils. Some are heavier and some are not. Rem Oil and Kroil, to name just two, are very low viscosity (thin) oils. Hoppes No. 9 is a medium viscosity (thicker) oil. STP is a very high viscosity (thick, but not quite grease) lube. Thinnest I ever used as a gunsmith was a mix of mineral spirits and clove oil (sometimes used by old-timers on damascus twist barrels).

 

[FallisPhoto]

Graphite is a wonderful lubricant, where it is designed to be used, as in heavy gear trains, flexible cables ,and similar applications. What few people do not realize is that graphite is slick because it consists of very thin flat platelets that slide over each other very smoothly. The down side is that graphite flakes are also very hard. Much harder than many of the materials to which they are so unceremoniously applied. Do not apply graphite in any form to Aluminum, soft steel, or Brass. It will cut through the "hardened" (anodized, casehardened, or burnished) surface and then rapidly wear the underlying metal away.

Over the years several owners of expensive synthetic firearms have lamented that after applying graphite mixed with Lubri-plate grease, the weapon just wore out. Eaten up by the slick, but abrasive graphite held in suspension by the grease.😱

I only use it on lightly pitted shutter blades, to fill in the pits and make them slide over one another more smoothly. I put it on in stick form and rub off all the excess. It is pretty harmless in that application. I would never use it as a general lubricant on a shutter's bearing surfaces (escapements, for example).

 

[Gumby]

I was unaware that Hoppes No. 9 is considered an oil. I thought it was a solvent.

I've successfully used Etsyntha 859 synthetic clock oil on Synchro Compurs (including 00 size) in the places needing oil, and Gunslick Graphite lube in the places needing grease. My shutters run like the proverbial swiss watch!

 

[FallisPhoto]

I was unaware that Hoppes No. 9 is considered an oil. I thought it was a solvent.

I've successfully used Etsyntha 859 synthetic clock oil on Synchro Compurs (including 00 size) in the places needing oil, and Gunslick Graphite lube in the places needing grease. My shutters run like the proverbial swiss watch!

Hoppes gun oil then (wasn't thinking).