Confused about TMax P3200 --shoot at 1600?

[JackForster]

I've done this with Ilford Delta 3200, should one follow the same practice with TMax 3200 or should I set ISO to 3200. . . been reading confusing/contradictory information all over the place :bang:

TIA (and sorry for asking a question I'm sure has been asked a million times before)

Jack

 

[Chriscrawfordphoto]

You can shoot it at either 1600 or 3200, just make sure you use the appropriate developing time for the speed you shoot. Kodak's developing times for this film with Tmax developer are spot on. Do not shoot at 1600 and develop for 3200 as some think you have to do with Delta 3200 (you don't have to with Delta, it works just fine with Ilford's times), it will look too contrasty and grainy if you do.

I usually shoot it at 1600, I think Tmax 3200 gives slightly nicer tonality at 1600 (developed for 1600). Use Tmax Developer. D-76 sucks for this film andXtol is ok but Tmax Developer gives the best tonality.

 

[NLewis]

Roger Hicks says that the 3200 films are really more like ISO1000 films, that push nicely. So, if you shoot them at 1600 they should look nicer.

 

[Rayt]

Choice of developer is key. Use Tmax or DDX developer for these 3200 films.

 

[jgran]

Agree with all of the above. I've shot Tmax P3200 at 3200 and 1600 - developed with HC-110, Xtol and D76. Always more grainy at 3200 no matter what developer.

 

[newsgrunt]

Not sure how much Tmax developer has changed over the years but I souped it at 100° (can't recall the times) and exposed the film at box speed. Was standard practice at newspapers afaik. Grain was actually finer that lower temp.

 

[JackForster]

Thanks everyone much appreciated (and as always some great photos too.) Sounds like 1600 is the way to go.

Jack

 

[Roger Hicks]

Roger Hicks says that the 3200 films are really more like ISO1000 films, that push nicely.

They are. Ilford is about 1/3 stop faster at 1000-1300 in most reasonable developers (not fine grain or Rodinal) as against Kodak's 800-1000. Both are 'long toe' films, i.e. relatively slow-building in contrast with increased development times, and at the ISO speed they may look a little flat and dull. In other words, they need to be pushed slightly for optimum tonality. Basically 3200 represents the limit for what most people would regard as optimum tonality, but anything from 1600 to 2500 is fine (and they handle overexposure very well).

Unlike Chris, I find that with the higher speeds (3200 and above) I need to develop longer than for the manufacturers' times, but that is simply personal variation: a lot depends on how you meter and on your development routine, enlarger, etc. All manufacturers' times are starting points only -- but they're better starting points than the maunderings of internet gurus.

Cheers,

R.