Confused with fixing

andre mueller

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Hello,
I need your help to understand what I'm doing in my fixing process.

I develop with Patterson tanks in daylight since almost a year now.
It's usually trix or hp5. Very rarely t-grain films. Either 1 or 2 tolls of 120 at a time.

The instructions for Ilford Rapid Fix that I found was:
Mix dilution of 1/4
Reuse 5 times within maximum 3 month

Then I follow the massdevchart app instruction of 5 minutes fixing.

I think this has worked out ok for me so far but I honestly couldn't tell you if I've over- or under fixed something.

The fixer is right now the most expensive part of my chemical process and I'm always anxious to note how many times I have used my mix.

Isn't there a better way of controlling this?

Thanks so much!
Andre
 
I reuse until it clears film within 5minutes or so. When it exhausted I started to see film sprocket shaped ghost image around edges, but that was when fixer solution had around 15 or more rolls of 135/36 through it. Now I have added another variable to watch - number of films, I am not going to go over 10 rolls. This is for 350ml tank.
 
One way to check fixer is to take a short piece of the discarded film leader and drop it in the fixer to check the clear time. Then fix the film for twice the time it takes film leader to clear.

Edwal Hypo Check is available - but it tends go cloudy in rapid fixer that has some life left in it. Best to use the stuff with a glass jar that you can swirl the fixer to see if the cloudiness goes away.

Best Regards,
 
I think that btgc and Solinar have pointed you in the right direction.

I've used Ilford Rapid Fixer ever since it came out. I couldn't give you an accurate count of how much film it will fix but I seem to be able to use 1 litre of working solution for something like 20 mixed 35mm and 120 rolls. I replace it when it takes more than three minutes to fully clear a film.
 
Hello,
I need your help to understand what I'm doing in my fixing process.

I develop with Patterson tanks in daylight since almost a year now.
It's usually trix or hp5. Very rarely t-grain films. Either 1 or 2 tolls of 120 at a time.

The instructions for Ilford Rapid Fix that I found was:
Mix dilution of 1/4
Reuse 5 times within maximum 3 month

Then I follow the massdevchart app instruction of 5 minutes fixing.

I think this has worked out ok for me so far but I honestly couldn't tell you if I've over- or under fixed something.

The fixer is right now the most expensive part of my chemical process and I'm always anxious to note how many times I have used my mix.

Isn't there a better way of controlling this?

Thanks so much!
Andre
Your stated instructions conflict with Ilford's own recommendations. They suggest a capacity of 24 rolls of 135/36 exposure per litre (although I have never bothered going beyond 15 or so personally), or replacing it when the clearing time is double that of fresh fixer. From my own experience, I'd suggest you'd reach double the clearing time before the 24 roll maximum using a litre of unreplenished Rapid Fixer mixed at Ilford's recommended 1 + 4 for film.

Bear in mind there are two factors to be aware of: adequate clearing of the film and silver content. The last will impact archival stability. I think you are under using your fixer substantially at the moment but it's relatively cheap so I wouldn't suggest using it beyond Ilford's recommendations.

FYI you may download Ilford's fact sheet about their Rapid Fixer from the following link. If you take a few minutes to read it, it will tell you everything you need to know and more about exactly how to achieve archival quality fixing of your films or papers.
Cheers
Brett
www.ilfordphoto.com/download.asp?n=1161&f=2011427111531653.pdf
 
Yes. You buy a 5l concentrated AGFA fix solution from Maco, or if you are in the US, the equivalent from freestyle. You dilute 1+10 or thereabouts. You take a film leader, and immerse it in this solution, noting the time. When you see, that the leader is transparent, multiply the time by 2. If it is more than 10 minutes, reduce the dilution strength a little, if it is shorter, increase it. This way, you get a 1 shot fixing solution to use for 10 minutes and discard thereafter. My 5 liter AGFA concentrate suffices for 62 developments in a 4 reel 35mm tank= 248 films, which comes out about 10 euro cents per film.
 
I only shoot 120 so I don't have film leaders to check that.
So I also don't know how to use the recommendation of 24 rolls of 135/36.
 
It's not hard to snip a sliver of film off the end of a roll for this purpose. A 5 millimetre wide strip from the roll end is ample and should not encroach on any film frames in the majority of cases. Regarding the capacity, most chemical information sheets I have read have stated the quantities for 135/36 and 120 rolls are interchangeable.
Cheers
Brett
 
Last December I mixed 1 liter of Ilford Rapidfix 1+4 and just dumped it last week after 25 rolls of mostly HP5, some Delta 100 & 400, and about 4 rolls of Tri-X. I count 135 as 1 roll and 120 as 2 rolls. When finished developing a roll I always check if the base is clear, if not I can always mix a new batch and re-fix it.
 
I keep the fixer solution for as long as after fixing the film looks nice and clear. If not, I discard the old solution and mix a fresh one.
 
I use 600 ml of Kodak rapid hardening fixer for 10 rolls of 35mm. From my calculations that is very conservative : 1 gal should have capacity for 120 rolls, so

120 rolls/gal X (1 gal/3800ml) X 600 ml = 19 rolls

Randy
 
Thanks for all the input! Going to try all of it and see what works best.
Seems like what I did so far was complete nonsense. Thanks :)
 
Solinar has the simplest and best idea. Before threading my film onto the reels, I always snip the tapered leader off and round off the corners of the film to make pushing it onto the rollers easier and smoother. Save those snipped ends, as you only need about a third for a snip test. If I have any doubts about the fixer, I'll fill one of those little tinfoil pie plates that you get your Dixie Pecan Pies in from the local Stop & Rob (mmmmm) and take my tweezers and hold one of the leader snips down so that it's fully submerged. After about 45 seconds, I take it out and see if I can read the label of my Crystal hot sauce through it. If so, it's good to go. If not, I stick it back in the fixer for about 20-25 seconds and see if I can read the label of my Zatarain's Crab Boil box through it. If I can, again, good to go. If not, I mix up fresh fixer. It's probably still good, but that's my scheme. Fixer generally lasts me around 2 months, and I do pour it back into my bottle after using it.

Then, I boil some large white Gulf shrimp in the crab boil and serve it w/ some beans and rice that were made the day before, along w/ candied sweet potatoes, greens, coleslaw, corn bread (Jiffy), and the bread pudding that was also made the day before from left over stale french bread. Next, put some Meters or Dr. John on the turntable, douse the beans w/ the Crystal, serve it all up w/ some ice cold Dixie beer on the side (Miller in a bottle will do if you don't live down here) and say to heck w/ the photography, this is what it's all about!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cXEK2ufq2lw

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dByTly4YLEc
 
ROTFL -

On that note - I'm looking forward to the day when we see the return of Hubig's pies at the local Mart.

Best Regards,
 
You can check the saturation of the fixer with AG+ ions with a solution of approx. 10% KI. The regular limit for film fix is 2g/ltr. AG+ ions. In fact a simple titration. If the solution clears it is OK. If staying milkey you are over the limit. 10ml fixer under test+ 5 drops of KI solution!
Another possibility are the Silver test strips from Tetenal/ Machery Nagel. But this system is much more expensive but even more accurate.
 
I tried Ilford Rapid Fixer 1:4 on films. Weird results comparing to paper. Seems to be too aggressive mix ratio for film emulsions.
Dumped it and went back to regular Kodak fixer. Cheap, lasts long and predictable.
 
I use a Paterson two reel tank. I usually prepare 600ml Ilford rapid fix in 1+4 dilution. That allows me to either fix two rolls of 135 or one roll of 120 film at one time.

I can fix at least ten rolls of 135/120 film until the base is clear in about 5min. From the 11th roll onwards, I compensate with slightly longer fixing times and monitor the film base until I see signs of fixer exhaustion. When that happens, I just mix up a fresh batch and refix that roll.
 
I give fixer 4 minutes at 68 degrees F. If it doesn't clear the film I mix up new fixer! That will fix things!

I use Ilford Hypam. 1+4, usually 200 ml stock then water to 1000 ml (same as 1 liter).
 
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