Contact sheets...how do YOU do them?

[David_Manning]

I'm ramping up my b&w film photography, after a year-long digital intermission.

My workflow of choice is selecting from contact sheets.

How is everyone getting 36 exposures on an 8x10 piece of paper? My Printfile sleeves are 6 rows by 6 columns (because I hate getting orphaned negs). Apparently I need the 5x7 sleeves to contact print to 8x10 paper without removing negs.

So, how is everyone getting 36 frames on an 8x10 sheet of paper?:bang:

 

[Requin]

I'm using a Paterson contact sheet printer (since the very beginning), which can make 7x6 negs on 24x30 cm paper. So I can print a maximum 0f 42 negs at once.

 

[David_Manning]

I bought some 85.x11 paper, which will allow contact sheet printing without removing sleeved negatives from the 6x6 Printfiles...but I'm curious about 8x10 paper.

I think 24x30cm is bigger...about 9.5x11.5 or so.

 

[ChrisN]

I stop at 35 exposures, for 7 strips of 5 exposures on 8x10. I remove the negs from the sleeves, so that I can properly judge exposure and development from the proof contact sheet (see this article by Barry Thornton).

 

[Haigh]

I too use a Patterson contact sheet printer and it holds 36 easily.

 

[newsgrunt]

another 35 frame shooter as well.

 

[Bob Michaels]

another 35 frame shooter as well.

Ditto, only shooting 35 frames. I always use one frame to insure 100% absolutely positively the film is wrapped on the take up spool. If you do not know why, you will learn some day when you begin to rewind.

 

[Murchu]

I stop at 35 exposures, for 7 strips of 5 exposures on 8x10. I remove the negs from the sleeves, so that I can properly judge exposure and development from the proof contact sheet (see this article by Barry Thornton).

Great link, Chris. I'm just getting back into some wet printing, after only really dabbling with it in the past, and wish I had seen that link a long time ago.

 

[sepiareverb]

I use Print file 357B pages, which hold 35 frames, in seven strips of 5. I usually cut from the last frame and load the page from the bottom. Extra frames (anywhere from 1 to 3) are kept in a page of 'extras' till that gets filled up. I always cut the extras with plenty of leader so handling isn't a pain when printing. Rolls that I have to shoot short I cut from either end.

sorry for the banding- iPhone shot on my flourescent lightbox.

 

[Gregoris]

I have recently bought a Paterson Contact Proof Printer like this one here
but I can't understand how you're supposed to "load" the negatives, other than try and line them up, which seems futile as they will never be lined up exactly to fit the masks without a way of holding them in place.
I used to print with a Jessop contact sheet printer which has clips that hold the negatives down, back when I was in college. This Paterson thing, doesn't seem practical at all. Is the mask supposed to be partly peeled off to allow the negatives in place? The mask seems to be glued on to the glass.

How do you do it?

 

[FrankS]

I use Print file 357B pages, which hold 35 frames, in seven strips of 5. I usually cut from the last frame and load the page from the bottom. Extra frames (anywhere from 1 to 3) are kept in a page of 'extras' till that gets filled up. I always cut the extras with plenty of leader so handling isn't a pain when printing. Rolls that I have to shoot short I cut from either end.

sorry for the banding- iPhone shot on my flourescent lightbox.

Same here.

 

[Fotohuis]

I am using clear print file sleeves and a glass (from IKEA 4mm) and a 24x30,5cm MG paper on my Dunco 40x50cm enlarging easel simply marked by magnetic strips for an easy positioning. No filtering, so grade 2.

No problems with dust or scratches on the negatives or problems in positioning.

 

[shortstop]

Paterson contact sheet printer isn't easy to use and progressive number are partially obscured. Much better Print File with 7 row. Every row contains 6 shots. A 3 mm glass to press Print File holder on the paper grad 2 24x30 cm.
The same for 120 (6x9: 2 shots per row; 6x6: 3 shots per row). The only problem I have is the notes I write are not very sharp and contrasted.

 

[shortstop]

I am using clear print file sleeves and a glass (from IKEA 4mm) and a 24x30,5cm MG paper on my Dunco 40x50cm enlarging easel simply marked by magnetic strips for an easy positioning. No filtering, so grade 2. No problems with dust or scratches on the negatives or problems in positioning.

Magnetic strips: Columbus egg!

 

[Vics]

I, too, shoot 35 on a roll and sleeve them into Print File's CP35-7HB sheets. Then I put an 8x10 sheet in the pocket provided on the sheet, and put it under the glass of my Print File proofer and shoot it at f/8 17" above the baseboard (Beseler 23CII) for 15 seconds. I use Ilford Multigrade glossy with a 3 filter.
I'm ramping up as well after a long spell of just scanning and posting. I want my contact prints back, and my meager 5x7" prints! Starts tonight.

 

[shortstop]

I forgot: the same method I use for contact sheet of 4x5 (two shots per row). I didn't know the Print File proofer. Seems well made. The description in photoimpex.de says no rails, so can be used both for 135 both for 120. I add also for 4x5.

 

[marameo]

Did you ever get 36 exposures on an 8x10 negative sheet (kind of interpositive)? I am looking for a way to project my negative film.

 

[V-12]

I scan them with an Epson V700 and can then print them out as a contact sheet on whatever format of paper I need, or keep them digital. Contact sheets are a reminder of the potential in what you shot, so whichever case it is (wet darkroom or office) you will always need a full scale print (or scan) to know what you have.

V

 

[skibeerr]

Did you ever get 36 exposures on an 8x10 negative sheet (kind of interpositive)? I am looking for a way to project my negative film.

There's a pro here in Melbourne who uses an old Durst 138 enlarger (8x10) to make slightly larger contacts for his clients. 35 shots per roll.

 

[--s]

I don´t make contacts on paper any more.
Instead, I shoot the negs from the light table with a digital cam in macro mode and invert them in PS. That´s so much faster, cheaper, and the negs are much better to evaluate.