Contax G1 - focusing

evb

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I bought a G1 + Planar 45/2 two days ago from KEH and haven't yet finished my first film roll. I would be very grateful for any advice, especially concerning focusing.

And once more I'd like to hear about personal experience with Sonnar 90/2.8. Are there really often focusing issues wide open?

I live very far from KEH (I'm in Russia), so I'm thinking about grabbing all the available lenses while they are available for me. BTW, what about 35/2? Ken writes it seems to be the worst of the G-lenses. Is he right?
 
E...I've had the G1 and the 45mm for about nine months, and I will say that it is reasonably easy to use and get a fair number of good photos, but somewhat difficult to master and consistently excellent photos. I have to admit there were times when I was ready to give up the camera, but then I developed my latest roll of black and white, and was very, very pleased with the results. Last night in bed I re-read the entire manual, and discovered another small item that I had missed earlier. So my advice to you is to read that manual with the camera in hand. And read it again, and again--trying every instruction in the book. Then after 2 or 3 rolls of film, read it again.
 
having used I G1 for over 5 years, I will say that the focusing is always exact when it is locked on. It either is in focus (exactly) or not all all. It will focus where the spot indicates, no where else.

The key to having the focus lock on is having the viewfinder glass clean. It sounds over simple but I was told this by a Contax USA service person years ago and always found that to be true. Thumbprints on the viewfinder window will be a problem.

The Sonnar 90 is an incredibly sharp lens. I seldom use mine simply because it is not a focal length that I use. But I have never seen focus issues wide open. When it indicates it is in focus, it is. Not just close, but in focus.

The 35 f2.0 was always my most used lens. I just like that focal length. The tests show it to be a excellent lens. True, it is the least best optically of the G lenses but it is maybe just an A rated lens compared to the other A+ lenses. Personally I have never seen a difference in enlarged photographs compared to the 45mm G lens or my Zeiss 35mm Biogon. Remember the 28mm, 45mm and 90mm Contax G lenses test comparable to anything Leica has ever made at any price. So maybe the 35mm is in the top 50 lenses ever made while all the other ContaxG lenses are somewhere in the top 10.
 
This sounds good to me. If the G1 lenses are that good, then they are good bargains.
 
having used I G1 for over 5 years, I will say that the focusing is always exact when it is locked on. It either is in focus (exactly) or not all all. It will focus where the spot indicates, no where else.

The key to having the focus lock on is having the viewfinder glass clean. It sounds over simple but I was told this by a Contax USA service person years ago and always found that to be true. Thumbprints on the viewfinder window will be a problem.

The Sonnar 90 is an incredibly sharp lens. I seldom use mine simply because it is not a focal length that I use. But I have never seen focus issues wide open. When it indicates it is in focus, it is. Not just close, but in focus.

The 35 f2.0 was always my most used lens. I just like that focal length. The tests show it to be a excellent lens. True, it is the least best optically of the G lenses but it is maybe just an A rated lens compared to the other A+ lenses. Personally I have never seen a difference in enlarged photographs compared to the 45mm G lens or my Zeiss 35mm Biogon. Remember the 28mm, 45mm and 90mm Contax G lenses test comparable to anything Leica has ever made at any price. So maybe the 35mm is in the top 50 lenses ever made while all the other ContaxG lenses are somewhere in the top 10.

I have a G1 and the 90mm is my second most important lens after the 35mm. I have no issues with the focus with that.

It has been acknowledges that the first set of G1 bodies had a problem in the lookup table (on the chip inside the camera) converting distance into motor movements. Green stickered G1 are fine. With silver once I don't know how to tell. If you have a body check that it gives the same reading on diagonal and vertical structures (top of camera display you can read the distance to a cm).

Concerning the performance of the 35mm, mine is excellent. It is my most used lens. Perhaps it has a weak centre but it is pin-sharp at the edges and in the corners. Suits my style of photography well. I recently got a 21mm Biogon. In comparison this seems sharper in centre and softer at the edges. While everyone seems to rave about this lens, I do not find it superior to the 35mm. If you want a 35mm get the 35mm - a 28mm or 45mm are different lenses.

Hope this helps.
 
I would agree with Bob - it's usually an all or nothing affair. Either it is spot on, or it's way off (you want a shot of a person and the focus is set to the background rather than their face). The latter situation if you are looking through the (let's face it) cramped viewfinder you will get some sense whether it's at 3 meters or infinity. In street situations I'm either not looking that closely at the finder, and this is when the focus is off. If you are being at all careful, you get what you want.

The other situation is when it can't find focus at all (this is the 2 blinking bars in the finder) sometimes you need to aim at something around the same distance but can get a reading. This is less common.

One piece of advice: Try the "C" continuous mode, makes the camera feel faster, even if you risk taking an extra shot.
 
Yes, Raid, They Are That Good!

Yes, Raid, They Are That Good!

I had both a G1 and later a G2 and liked both of them. I found the G2 a hair easier to use than the G1 but don't recall many problems attaining focus with the G1. I thoroughly enjoyed the Sonnar 90 but that has always been one of my favorite focal lengths anyway.

But the 28 is the jewel in the lot, as far as I'm concerned. Perhaps not quite as sharp as the 45 but I don't think you can really tell the difference in acuity.

My main problem with both G's, though, was that squinty viewfinder. And today, when I looked at some of the prices for those magnificent Zeiss T* lenses on the used market, I came really close to calling up my friendly used camera broker and order another G2 outfit.

Why Kyocera didn't pursue a G3, I'll never understand.

dc3
 
I never found troubles with the 90 focussing, but on a G2, I only had the 45 with my G1. The 90 is an incredible lens- this image is printed to 16x20 with crisp detail right into the corners.
43privacyfence.jpg


I disliked the signature of the 35 quite a bit- seemed very dull compared t the rest of the line-up. I currently only have the 21 and 45, still looking for a black 28 at a reasonable price.
 
Another G1 testimonial

Another G1 testimonial

evb,
I have been using a G1 for a little over a year so my experiences are not the most reliable. As for as focusing goes mine focused right on or not at all like others have said. It was frustrating for me at first since I am not that good a photographer in the first place, but there is a solution. I read about setting up a test image at a known distance and then checking the focus distance in the little window. You are checking to see just how "centered" the focus metering sensor is located inside the brackets. Once you know exactly where the focus point is all of your images will be focused within the depth of field of the lens being used. Bob Michaels is correct about the fingerprints. Clean viewfinder glass is essential to quick, accurate focusing.

I do not know about the 35mm as it will not work on my G1(silver label), but the 28, 45, and 90 all are superb lenses. The 90 takes great short range wildlife images of the birds around my feeders. Listen to the other commenters, but I believe you are thinking correctly about collecting all of the gear that you might want now. Who knows what the world economy will be like in six months! The optics really are first rate and I think that you will love the image quality
, enjoy your G1. ;)
 
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The ContaxG 35mm Planar, the supposedly "not so good" one (always good enough for me)

The ContaxG 35mm Planar, the supposedly "not so good" one (always good enough for me)

If you look at the neg closely, you can count the threads in the coat. You judge the tonality for yourself. As I remember this was shot at f5.6, Neopan 400, Rodinal 1:50. I will say the 8x12 print just looks damn good to my eye.

Easter%20two%20brothers%20S%20Apopka.jpg
 
Last night in bed I re-read the entire manual, and discovered another small item that I had missed earlier. So my advice to you is to read that manual with the camera in hand. And read it again, and again--trying every instruction in the book. Then after 2 or 3 rolls of film, read it again.

vfrazz, how about you just tell us what you found, eh?

For my part, I sold my G1 in frustration and then bought it again six months later. The 45mm Planar is simply amazing. My son, this past Thanksgiving...

Owen.jpg
 
Thanks!

Thanks!

Dear friends and colleagues,

I'm very much impressed by your help. Thanks a lot for the amazingly useful and concrete advice and for wonderful pictures. Today or tomorrow I'm going to give to the lab my first Superia 400 roll from the G1.

I'm a Nikon-user (on film and on Fuji S5) with a collection of new and old fix-focal lenses, so I'm impatient to compare their "picture" with the Planar.

Having already 2 dedicated portrait lenses (Nikkor Ai 105/2.5 and Nikkor AF85/1.8) and two more which I use for portraits as well (Nikkor AF 50/1.4 and Nikkor AF 180/2.8 ED-IF) I'm thinking nevertheless on buying the Sonnar 90/2.8 after having read what you wrote about it. I think I'll make decision after shooting several rolls with 45/2, then I'll see whether the whole system works fine.

Price is amazing indeed - the whole system costs less than one "professional" modern Nikon lens.

Thanks once more and please welcome with more advice and discussion.

Eugene
 
If you have access to Kodak 400 UC negative film, this is the best film I have ever used.

So give it a try, it has wonderful, as close to life as can be colors.
 
If you have access to Kodak 400 UC negative film, this is the best film I have ever used.

So give it a try, it has wonderful, as close to life as can be colors.
UC? I used both NC and VC, mostly on medium format, and NC seemed better. UC, if I'm not mistaken, must give even more vivid colors? I think it's easily available in Russia and if you have such good experience using this film with Contax G lenses, I'll give it a try. Is it so good for capturing people? (That's what I do most of time with my cameras :) )
 
If you look at the neg closely, you can count the threads in the coat. You judge the tonality for yourself. As I remember this was shot at f5.6, Neopan 400, Rodinal 1:50. I will say the 8x12 print just looks damn good to my eye.

Easter%20two%20brothers%20S%20Apopka.jpg

Fully agree here the 35mm contax planar is unbelievable at f4.0 and further stopped down. And it;s very small and lightweight
 
By the way, what are usable handheld exposure times? I hope, the absence of mirror makes it possible to shoot at 1/15-1/30?
 
Supplemental focus manual....

Supplemental focus manual....

I didn't read all the posts in fine detail, but I didn't see any references to the supplemental "focus" manual.

My G1 came with a secondary manual dealing with focusing instructions. It appears that many early users were not using the focus patch correctly and locking in the focus on the subject where focus was desired, then recomposing the picture.

Did you get the smaller supplemental focus manual with your G1?
 
I didn't read all the posts in fine detail, but I didn't see any references to the supplemental "focus" manual.

My G1 came with a secondary manual dealing with focusing instructions. It appears that many early users were not using the focus patch correctly and locking in the focus on the subject where focus was desired, then recomposing the picture.

Did you get the smaller supplemental focus manual with your G1?

I have been looking for a pdf of this for the better part of a year. If you would scan yours and post it for this forum, you'd be a hero. I would be more than willing to host it on my ftp.
 
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