ianstamatic
Well-known
I kind of like the results !!
Used arista edu 100 (formapan 100) just cause I had it on hand.
Xtol 1:1
sorry about the dust but these are the preview scans from the epson v700. I'll spot the drum scans.
Used arista edu 100 (formapan 100) just cause I had it on hand.
Xtol 1:1
sorry about the dust but these are the preview scans from the epson v700. I'll spot the drum scans.
Moriturii
Well-known
So detailed, wow! With the 45mm f2 planar? The use of light on all the pictures is really fantastic. Love it.
f16sunshine
Moderator
These are Intense Ian.
You are getting pretty nice results from the V700 from your 35mm negs. Care to share your scanning work-flow? Which scanning SW do you use?
You are getting pretty nice results from the V700 from your 35mm negs. Care to share your scanning work-flow? Which scanning SW do you use?
ianstamatic
Well-known
Thanks guys.
I used mostly the 45, with the 28 being used for the kneeling shots and the 90 on a couple but mostly the 45.
No focus problems here.. It almost sucks that this plain Jane looking, almost boringly easy to use, beige camera totally annihilates all my other 35mm gear.. My brassed F3 looks much cooler. but the difference in the glass is noticeable.
regarding the v700.
I use the stock holders with 'frosted' glass inserts I had cut at a framing store. They cost about $30 for a 35mm +mf set versus $100+ for ANR glass. I also adjusted the height on the feet of the holders. Online many people found 3mm to work well but mine worked best on the lowest setting.
I use the stock epson software set as follows :
res = 2400dpi
file type = 24bit color
EVERYTHING ELSE TURNED OFF incl. color management adjustments etc.
I get back flat muddy looking scans. I then take those into either lightroom or capture one and adjust or use one of my previous adjustment templates. The reason I do this is that the scanner software is working on a raw file. there is no adjustable hardware gain stage or adjustment at AD conversion time. I would rather do the adjustments in LR as its a more manageable and faster workflow.
On my Aztec drum scanner I can let the DPI software manipulate the gain and make changes directly at AD conversion stage and get back an adjusted scan with a totally smooth histogram.
I used mostly the 45, with the 28 being used for the kneeling shots and the 90 on a couple but mostly the 45.
No focus problems here.. It almost sucks that this plain Jane looking, almost boringly easy to use, beige camera totally annihilates all my other 35mm gear.. My brassed F3 looks much cooler. but the difference in the glass is noticeable.
regarding the v700.
I use the stock holders with 'frosted' glass inserts I had cut at a framing store. They cost about $30 for a 35mm +mf set versus $100+ for ANR glass. I also adjusted the height on the feet of the holders. Online many people found 3mm to work well but mine worked best on the lowest setting.
I use the stock epson software set as follows :
res = 2400dpi
file type = 24bit color
EVERYTHING ELSE TURNED OFF incl. color management adjustments etc.
I get back flat muddy looking scans. I then take those into either lightroom or capture one and adjust or use one of my previous adjustment templates. The reason I do this is that the scanner software is working on a raw file. there is no adjustable hardware gain stage or adjustment at AD conversion time. I would rather do the adjustments in LR as its a more manageable and faster workflow.
On my Aztec drum scanner I can let the DPI software manipulate the gain and make changes directly at AD conversion stage and get back an adjusted scan with a totally smooth histogram.
DNG
Film Friendly
I must say, I am quite impressed with the subject, tonal range, lighting and editing done...
I just got done developing my 1st 6 rolls from My G1/45mm I bought from Bob Micheal last week. I am floored on the sharpness (over the ZM 50mm f/1.5 C-Sonnar at f2.8 and smaller which I sold last week, and I really liked too.)... And that just through an 8x loop...
Back to you.... The textures and tonal range is just wonderful. The poses are fabulous also, bit you know that already.
I just got done developing my 1st 6 rolls from My G1/45mm I bought from Bob Micheal last week. I am floored on the sharpness (over the ZM 50mm f/1.5 C-Sonnar at f2.8 and smaller which I sold last week, and I really liked too.)... And that just through an 8x loop...
Back to you.... The textures and tonal range is just wonderful. The poses are fabulous also, bit you know that already.
ianstamatic
Well-known
Thanks DNG
You have some cool photos on your site, kept me there for a while.
The lens on the G-series are really something special. I now use it over slr for 35mm studio work which just feels so wrong but works perfectly in practice !!
In a few days I'll post some shots from a catalog for womens hoserie that i just shot. I used the G1 alot on that shoot with great results.
You have some cool photos on your site, kept me there for a while.
The lens on the G-series are really something special. I now use it over slr for 35mm studio work which just feels so wrong but works perfectly in practice !!
In a few days I'll post some shots from a catalog for womens hoserie that i just shot. I used the G1 alot on that shoot with great results.
Nate Butler
Established
Very nice! How did you light the model? Wondering if you're using TTL off-camera...
kdemas
Enjoy Life.
I think I may need to see more before I can lend an informed opinion ;-)
All kidding aside very nice work and it's nice to see the G1 in action. Both the 45 and the 90 are incredibly sharp, love them on my G2.
All kidding aside very nice work and it's nice to see the G1 in action. Both the 45 and the 90 are incredibly sharp, love them on my G2.
DNG
Film Friendly
ianstamatic
Well-known
kdemas - thanks !!
nate - the lighting consists of 5 Hensel strobes with the following modifiers
a 6' octobox gridded with 1 front scrim removed
beauty dish
hair light on overhead boom
head with grid from the back
from the fron a snoot with grid.
I dont necessarily use each light on every shot. Sometimes 1 or 2 is best.
nate - the lighting consists of 5 Hensel strobes with the following modifiers
a 6' octobox gridded with 1 front scrim removed
beauty dish
hair light on overhead boom
head with grid from the back
from the fron a snoot with grid.
I dont necessarily use each light on every shot. Sometimes 1 or 2 is best.
raid
Dad Photographer
The photos look great. It is not the G1 that did this "magic", but it was the photographer.
andredossantos
Well-known
Excellent photos! And while I agree with Raid that it is the photographer more than the gear, its clear the lenses from the G are superb. They render color and B&W so freaking well, it's crazy.
One more question re: scanning (sorry!): Do you mean you simply place the holders flat down onto the glass without adding those plastic heighteners to the bottom?
One more question re: scanning (sorry!): Do you mean you simply place the holders flat down onto the glass without adding those plastic heighteners to the bottom?
raid
Dad Photographer
Nate Butler
Established
ianstamatic
Well-known
Thanks Raid and Andre.
Raid - esp as you have 2 bodies. I doubt your going to miss either the hexar or M6 too much. Personally I find the M6 so heavy I may as well use a tlr or super isolette / fuji gs645. The only time i would put other glass before G-series lenses is when i want to seriously play with the OOF areas, or macro (for which i would use RZ Pro or rolleinar)
Andre - some great urban landscapes on your site !!
Raid - esp as you have 2 bodies. I doubt your going to miss either the hexar or M6 too much. Personally I find the M6 so heavy I may as well use a tlr or super isolette / fuji gs645. The only time i would put other glass before G-series lenses is when i want to seriously play with the OOF areas, or macro (for which i would use RZ Pro or rolleinar)
Andre - some great urban landscapes on your site !!