Contax G1...why so cheap?

I love my G1 camera and my great lenses: 28mm, 35mm, 45mm, 90mm.
I don't know why the camera and lenses are so cheap but the quality is undiscussed!
 
jan normandale said:
I am curious now.. I read Jaap's comment about this camera being more accurate than a traditional RF patch.. not sure how he arrived at this but let it ride. My question is after three camera bodies you now are on the fourth. So the chances of getting a good one are hit and miss. I say this because I've two bodies... and the focus issue is present on both so now we have one in six that are working... that would be enough to scare me away and probably lots of others. I think this is why that camera has such a low price. Consistency is important to me. I've lost G1 shots and there's no going back to get them.

The 'working' body you now have... have you ever had any repeat 'focus issues' or is this one 'bullet proof'?
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From 50cm untill about 3m an active AND passive is in the game.
In this range a g2 can measure the distance in a reselution of 1cm!.
You can test this without a lens on the body,put it on SAF and read the display on the body each time you press the shutter half way. I have tried this in front of a white wall with no contrast.
The weakness of the af is with the 90mm at a longer distance.
At least that is my experience with my G2.
 
Joachim and Jaap, I've never had "Out of Focus" manual RF shots except due to "pilot error". I couldn't comment on your quoted numbers or degrees... for me this dialogue is about the image. The image speaks for itself. If it's OoF then it's OoF.

This wasn't just an issue for the 90mm lens it's an issue for all the lenses because of the lag or 'confused IR'. My problem was OoF shots in lower light, extremes of low / high light, and motion due to the focus mechanism. I use the camera mostly in these situations. Photography inside factories, or outdoors for moving trains is not good for me with this camera. Motion especially can cause the AF to hesitate or take “too long” and cause the loss of a shot. Taking the camera off AF, then the manual focus is equally time consuming. I'll take an R3a and a 25mm or 50mm RF lens and I know if there's a mistake it's me not the camera.

Usually I can't come back for a re-shoot, so if I only have the one time I rely on "trusted equipment". I've had a G1 for four years and I still use it and like the G1 glass but I also dislike the camera's operational idiosyncrasies.

If I were the only person saying this I'd re-examine my use of the camera. I'm not the only one.

There is always more than one side to every story. This is just mine
 
Actually I can work well with most camera,s If the Zeiss Ikon was here 10 years earlier I probably would have bought a Zeiss Ikon with some biogons and planars
 
...here's the original poster back for a windup...I've decided to go with a green label G1 and it's accompanying 35mm Planar (tracking one on eBay as I write)...I have Googled every bloody G1 site I could find, and I am very familiar (on paper) with its quirks. I can do quirks, having extensively used the Rollei 35s, and a couple of other engineering beauties. The lens makes the picture, of course, and I do want that Zeiss glass (had a Hassleblad --hated the camera, loved the glass), and 35mm is way more flexible for what I do. I thank all for their contributions--even the side issues were informative.
 
I shoot almost exclusively with a G2 and I never have any issues with my pictures coming out sharp -- and I shoot mostly wide open. You just have to become familiar with the AF system's tendencies. Look at the distance indicator in the viewfinder and focus a few times if you're unsure -- in the end it's a lot quicker than using manual focus and if you understand the system it's just as accurate.


Marco
 
vfrazz said:
...here's the original poster back for a windup...I've decided to go with a green label G1 and it's accompanying 35mm Planar (tracking one on eBay as I write)...I have Googled every bloody G1 site I could find, and I am very familiar (on paper) with its quirks. I can do quirks, having extensively used the Rollei 35s, and a couple of other engineering beauties. The lens makes the picture, of course, and I do want that Zeiss glass (had a Hassleblad --hated the camera, loved the glass), and 35mm is way more flexible for what I do. I thank all for their contributions--even the side issues were informative.
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How did you go? Did you get one? I purchased a G1 complete with 28 45 & 90 lenses earlier this year and I've been rather pleased with the results. I got a couple of mis-focused shots early on but haven't had any problems since.

I wear glasses and don't have any problems with the finder. As you get going with the camera I think that it's important to really understand and pay attention to the LCD display at the bottom of the finder: It really tells you *what* distance is at focus. In my experience it is either completely on the mark or completely off the mark. Great value camera. I've also had a lot of success with manual hyperfocal and using a fairly forgiving aperture like f8. Very quick to use for candids that way.

Cheers and good luck and let us know what you get
 
the planar 35 is the less good lens of the lot... the 45 and 28 are far better (meaning for the 45 : on of the best ever)... specially on the G1 that needs the green label to use the 35mm...

For me the G series are not AF cameras but assisted RF camera... meaning that you must first focus then compose (and never forget to lock your focus... if you move your finger you loose the focus)... that's the basic problem or the camera : the AF lock...

I use and used them a lot (G1 then G2) and I love the results, but I do confess that my M6 feels better when it comes to the focus then compose process... the G system is wonderfull but that AF is basic... would they have done one without AF... ;-)

Anyway even with reflex camera... I prefer my OM (3 and 4) to any AF cameras... Think then shoot (said the ad...)
 
Buy one before the impending doom of digital

Buy one before the impending doom of digital

We are currently in the sweet spot for buyers of film cameras. Prices are low . In the case of the G1, it's likely because the G2 is wrongly perceived as a better camera. I loved my G1. For the price, I would take the best bang for the buck-a G1/3 lens set. The advantage is that as a set, you get the three identical lenses used on the G2 for less money. Interestingly the lenses sell for less when paired with a G1 body. I did the research and proved it for my own purposes. Then I would buy a green sticker G1 body, and combined, probably save over the G2 with the same three lenses, but have two bodies.

BUT THE REAL NEWS HERE is that you shouldn't fart around pondering. Anything you buy in film hardware is going to go up radically as soon as digital sales start falling (SOON) on the failure of digital. The masses are fed up with the hype and constant rollout of new and "better" digital cameras.

As soon as the industry figures out that people (including many pros) are going back to film, the prices on existing inventory of working film cameras are going to skyrocket. It will take the manufacturers a couple of years to ramp up production lines for the cameras they discontinued.

Studies are also showing that there are some mental abberations developing as the subconscious mind is capable of recognising that the digital pictures we are currently looking at are made up of tiny little colored squares. The average mind has huge problems with this. It sets well with only the most anal of organized minds. Others are prone to uncertain behavior, including , but not limited to mild seizures, catatonic behaviour, binge eating, and then purging brought on by viewing digital pictures.

So, don't hesitate. If you want a deal and you like the G1 (remember, I liked mine), buy now and avoid the rush.
 
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raid said:
Thanks for the wise advice.
I will stop..... :bang:
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Absolutely... stop farting and buy, buy, buy all the film camera's you can store in every nook and cranny of your home. Don't pay any attention to what the wife/SO says. You're investing in your future.

(You can show her my advice here, if it will help)
 
Raid - glad to see you have not ben washed away. You might like the G1, and $110 would have been a great price. Especially if a lens was included! At that price I would not bother to send the camera off for the green sticker treatment - just match it with the 45mm Planar, shoot it til it dies, and throw it away.

I have a G1 that I sent in for the firmware upgrade to use the 21mm Biogon, in addition to the 45mm Planar and 90mm Sonnar. Roger and Jan articulated pretty comprehensively the problems some people have with this camera. Whether it is because I got one with a properly functioning AF, or because the way the AF functions just works for me, my hit rate for in-focus shots has been fine.

To suggest how well I regard the G1: a while back I decided I didn't need two semi point and shoot film cameras. I kept the G1 and sold the Hexar AF. Admittedly the fact the the Hexar often sells for more than the G1 was a factor in the choice.
 
jmkelly said:
Raid - glad to see you have not ben washed away. You might like the G1, and $110 would have been a great price. Especially if a lens was included! At that price I would not bother to send the camera off for the green sticker treatment - just match it with the 45mm Planar, shoot it til it dies, and throw it away.

I have a G1 that I sent in for the firmware upgrade to use the 21mm Biogon, in addition to the 45mm Planar and 90mm Sonnar. Roger and Jan articulated pretty comprehensively the problems some people have with this camera. Whether it is because I got one with a properly functioning AF, or because the way the AF functions just works for me, my hit rate for in-focus shots has been fine.

To suggest how well I regard the G1: a while back I decided I didn't need two semi point and shoot film cameras. I kept the G1 and sold the Hexar AF. Admittedly the fact the the Hexar often sells for more than the G1 was a factor in the choice.
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Hi John,


I am glad that we were spared from the storm. There are big ["good looking"] clouds in the sky, but the sun is out, and it will be a great day here. Thanks.

As for the $109 camera, I let someone else buy the G1. There was no lens included. I thought that I get a better deal [quality + price] if I find a cleaner looking set with lens, preferably the 45mm lens.


What is the market value of the 90mm and 28mm Zeiss lenses for the G2/G1?

Is $700 too much for G2 + 28 +90? 🙂

I am sold on cameras and lenses that were made before 1960, so I am careful with auto "things" these days.
 
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IMHO, the G1 is a terrible camera for street shooting. First, the viewfinder is small, dark and doesn't display the true field-of-view until correct focus is achieved. Second, shooting the G-1 vertically is always a problem for me because I can't always quickly center the viewfinder while wearing my glasses, and when the viewfinder is not properly centered, the view disappears completely. Third, the noise factor. The G-1's focussing system returns the lens to infinity after each shot and it makes lots of noise while focussing, aside from taking too long to focus. Fourth, manual focussing stinks, because it can't be confirmed easily and is 'way too slow for street shooting. Fifth, the G-1 uses CR-2 batteries, which are not cheap and not efficient. So why do I own a three lens Contax G-1 system? Because the lenses are cheap and superb. The 28, 45 and 90 rate well when compared to Leitz optics. The G-1 is a compromised body, mated to fantastic Zeiss glass. I've never shot with a G-2, so I can't say if it would be a major improvement. My advice is to buy a G-1 and try it out for yourself. You won't lose much or any money at all if you decide to unload it later. The prices can't drop much more.
 
hello again...this is the original poster...I did buy the G1 (I wanted the smallest G package I could get), and opted for the 45mm lens based on the superb reviews, though I still feel itchy for the 35mm because of the wider field (of course I simply take a few steps back, and I've got it). I photograph black and white, in a hybrid street/ documentary sort of style, and I prefer high contrast, and sharp, sharp negatives. The lens simply does not fail. My favorite lens had always been the sonnar (Rollei 35s), but this thing is just so good. The autofocus mode on the camera surprised me because I did not plan to use it--at all. No doubt about it (for me), the manual mode is a whopping pain in the butt, and I found the autofocus much easier to operate than expected, with no loss of shots due to poor focus--none. I do lose a frame every once in a while by pressing the half-way shutter too hard. I do get slightly flumoxed once in a while switching to AEL to hold the shutter speed where I want it. I am sometimes slightly confused with viewfinder display (that bar graph thing). But the bracketing feature is splendid (I will sometimes expend a whole roll of 24 frames on just a few subjects--but I get what I want from the exposure). The dingy viewfinder is disappointing, but not a deal breaker--I've learned to compose outside of the camera, before bringing it up to my eye (and eyeglasses). The camera is quiet enough, and has a good feel and a good sound--constantly reminding me of the quality build, which is a pleasant feeling. I paid a pretty penny for the kit, but I puposely slected the best, and apparently least used set available (eBay). I immediately bought a medium yellow filter, and I also bought a small Lowepro Cirrus TLZ5 lens bag to house the camera--using a hand strap on the right lug, and inserting the camera in the bag with the left side down, which gives me a very fast draw (I never hang the thing off my neck--it's either in hand or in the bag). So all in all, I'd say the G1 is a good camera for me. Anyone considering a G1 should probably be tolerent of quirky mechanics, and be willing to learn, and change a few habits. I certainly had Leica-lust before buying this camera, but that's all gone now.
 
Vincent - congratulations on your G1. What you wrote above looks like it could have been cribbed from my own notes on this camera, including going for the G1 over the G2 to get a smaller, lighter body. Most of the time I sling mine from a wrist strap - no bag. The body is pretty scratch-resistant, and those it gets don't show. The only really visible wear on mine is black paint loss from the film door hinge.

And if you want to go wide, save up for the 21mm Biogon:

926900023sm-vi.jpg
 
>>I can do quirks, having extensively used the Rollei 35s...

yeah, but the Rollei 35 is kind of cool and mechanical, the G1 & G2 are kind of just AF electronic cameras with a Stylus Epic class VF. The glass is nice... and maybe you'll like the G1... I wanted too... it's different though. Have a grat time!
 
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