Erik van Straten
Veteran
Both curtains are connected to the same straps so they have exactly the same tension and speed. It is not a Leica! There is only the "lifting heel" that opens up the slit a bit more at the end of its run.
Erik.
Contax I ribbons
- Thread starter Dralowid
- Start date
- Latest activity Latest activity:
- Replies 714
- Views 85K
Both curtains are connected to the same straps so they have exactly the same tension and speed. It is not a Leica! There is only the "lifting heel" that opens up the slit a bit more at the end of its run.
Erik.
Deklari
Well-known
I guess we also need to understand how winding mechanism works. As I can see there is two parts in winding knob external and internal with speed holes/grooves. To sett a different speed I need pull winding knob and sett speed after rotate knob. Do winding knob always rotate on 360 or it stop at one position? For example if I sett "B" (red dot) and rotate knob it will stop at "B" or if I sett "2" it will stop at "2"?
Erik van Straten
Veteran
For tensioning you always have to turn the knob 360 degrees, no matter if you set the speed before or after tensioning. This is different from Contax II/III.
Erik.
Deklari
Well-known
I understate that, my question if it matter for tension from which point to start ?
Erik van Straten
Veteran
The tension changes only when you change the setting of the thin nickel ring (white or red dots), not if you turn the broader tensioning/film transport/speed selector ring. That broader ring sets the slit width between the curtains.
Erik.
Dralowid
Michael
Yes, as Erik says it should turn through 360 degrees. If it doesn't, turn it as far as it will go, then lift it out and turn it a bit more to get on to the right mark.
I don't know why this works or what is wrong if this is happening but in the past this has worked for me...
To be honest, if I can get the thing to work at a reasonable setting I am going to avoid changing speeds too often!
Michael
(I am tempted to dismantle the 'dimple' Contax. Without slow speeds it will be much easier to understand the functioning of the shutter)
I don't know why this works or what is wrong if this is happening but in the past this has worked for me...
To be honest, if I can get the thing to work at a reasonable setting I am going to avoid changing speeds too often!
Michael
(I am tempted to dismantle the 'dimple' Contax. Without slow speeds it will be much easier to understand the functioning of the shutter)
Erik van Straten
Veteran
Beware, because it is a much rarer model, really a collectors item, more expensive than an ordinary model with slow speeds.
Erik.
Dralowid
Michael
Erik,
You are right, and my example doesn't show the scars of amateurs like me trying to pull it apart!
And yet...and yet...it would be fun...
Deklari
Well-known
Michael and Erik it really help. Thanks
Dralowid
Michael
Deklari,
It is possible to take up some of the 'slack' in the blinds by adjusting the position of the second (top) blind on its axle.
To do this you loosen the little screws in the right hand side of the second blind's roller and move it a few degrees then re-tighten.
I would think very hard before doing this because I am not sure what other effects it may have. By moving the blind you are changing its relationship with the slow speed escapement and the setting of the shutter blind slot.
If the camera worked before then the blind is in the right place and something else is wrong.
Michael
It is possible to take up some of the 'slack' in the blinds by adjusting the position of the second (top) blind on its axle.
To do this you loosen the little screws in the right hand side of the second blind's roller and move it a few degrees then re-tighten.
I would think very hard before doing this because I am not sure what other effects it may have. By moving the blind you are changing its relationship with the slow speed escapement and the setting of the shutter blind slot.
If the camera worked before then the blind is in the right place and something else is wrong.
Michael
Deklari
Well-known
Michael, I have read how to sett top blind on Kiev. It a little complicated and I can mess with speed settings. In Contax I it could be more complex, especially because there is no instruction manual as for Kiev exist.
Erik van Straten
Veteran
I would in a Contax I never touch the connection of the second blind with the gearing, that small gear wheel on the right of the second blind. How will you ever find back the correct position of the gears? As you state, there is no instruction manual that will help you.
Erik.
Erik.
Dralowid
Michael
You can move the blind without changing the gearing but you are right, best left alone.
Look what came in the post today:
IMG_2861 by dralowid, on Flickr
A 'new old stock' Kiev shutter blind assembly. My photo only shows the important bit (for me anyway). As a matter of interest the original ribbon length from top blind to centre of lower axle is 110mm. If I undo the ribbons from the top blind carefully I wonder if I could use them instead of the AA ribbon. Would they be better?
Look what came in the post today:
IMG_2861 by dralowid, on FlickrA 'new old stock' Kiev shutter blind assembly. My photo only shows the important bit (for me anyway). As a matter of interest the original ribbon length from top blind to centre of lower axle is 110mm. If I undo the ribbons from the top blind carefully I wonder if I could use them instead of the AA ribbon. Would they be better?
Erik van Straten
Veteran
They give better friction, so I would certainly try them. (In fact I have this ribbon in stock; will use it if the AA breaks).
Erik.
Erik.
Highway 61
Revisited
The Arsenal ribbon is too thick to be used in a Contax II shutter, this has been discussed and proved already.
There is no record about its possible use in a Contax I shutter, though.
As for the ribbons length, well it's the same in the Kiev shutter as what it is in the Contax II shutter. The length of the ribbons for the many variations of the Contax I shutter may differ.
There is no record about its possible use in a Contax I shutter, though.
As for the ribbons length, well it's the same in the Kiev shutter as what it is in the Contax II shutter. The length of the ribbons for the many variations of the Contax I shutter may differ.
Dralowid
Michael
Grytpype
Well-known
I think the 'Arsenal' ribbon is really too thick for Kievs.
I posted in the "Who Repairs Contax Is" thread some measurements (on a 1" micrometer) of various ribbon thicknesses: Contax ribbons generally .010"/.011"; 'Arsenal' ribbon as currently supplied .015"/.016"; a 1974 Kiev .0135"; and a 1967 Kiev .0125".
Since then I have checked a 1957 Kiev 3A and a 1956 Kiev 2A. The ribbons in the 3A measured .012" and the 2A a little less. Almost certainly this would be good in a Contax. Kiev ribbon seems to have grown fatter over the years!
Erik van Straten
Veteran
Grytpype
Well-known
Certainly for Contax, and probably for Kiev - unless you open the friction slots a little.
Deklari
Well-known
I just check ribbons thickness on Kiev (1980) - 0.012"=0.3mm and Contax III (if it original from 1937?) - 0.008"=0.2mm
