After looking over my supply of ribbon, Arsenal, Knobby Sparrow and Asahi and measuring the Contax I "clutch width". At Jo Ann I found 3mm/0.185 and 0.20 ribbon, made by Offray which looked to have a weave that would not add resistance or invite rapid wear in white, blue and black, 100% polyester which for about $1.85 each I purchased all three.
The polyester weaved ribbon provided a way to stop the end from fraying by using a flame from a cigar lighter. With minimal practice I was able, after threading through the clutch and 2nd curtain, to melt the end just enough to provide a wall against fraying. I was able after having to unfit one side of the ribbon to add a turn on one pully and refit the same ribbon onto the 2nd curtain!
The "e" model Contax I that I am working on had both sides of the ribbon separated when I came into possession. After fitting the ribbon, with 5 turns I decided to take one off. In the end I kept as many turns on as would be allowed with the 100 mm mark still visible at the spring pully on each side. This was done to allow maximum tension and use a small clamp while fixing the ends to the 2nd curtain.
After replacing the ribbons and placing the spring unit into the shutter carrier the shutter would not operate normally. The shutter would stop without making a full circuit to the bottom of the shutter. After eliminating lubrication solidification as a problem it seemed that the only reason I could find for the 2nd curtain not to travel fully had to be that when the last ribbon separated the 2nd curtain may have rotated placing the gear out of synchronization.
I loosened the two screws for the second curtain and rotated the curtain beyond what a full wind was on the Contax II, temporarily tightened things up and wound and fired the shutter until the shutter made a full circuit without allowing slack and the stoper on the 1st curtain t odo its job.
At that point the B setting still did not work and I had to do some additional lubrication to free up the excapement and finally "B" worked normally and so did the oather speeds. This took a lot of patience and time.
Now though, this "f" model works on all groups and speeds and sounds like I expected it to sound, like a well tuned machine.
The "sports" group time is s~30% slower than normal but everything works consistently.
I have reassembled 80% of the camera leaving the shutter platform cover off while I decide whether I will add or reduce the number of turns on the main spring.
Since I do not know at the moment how that would affect the high speeds group...if anyone does know please pass any suggestion on to me. The camera is pretty close to perfect for its vintage and apparent use.
Thanks in advance.
By the way, I have checked the slow speeds using an Olympus-35 and a digital stop watch and also the high speeds using an old TV comparing the width of the elongated rectangle to known operating cameras.
Thanks for all the prior posts....
Tom Shafovaloff
