-Nash-
Established
Hello!
I'm in possession of several broken Kiev units and a single worn out Contax III camera. While i'm ready to start experimenting and documenting the repair on the camera body (starting off by learning a bit with the Kiev bodies), the repair book does not cover dismantling of the back door locks.
I can't seem to find a tool that can grip the screw head holding the locks in place. I need a screwbit that can fasten itself around the head. Any ideas?
I'm in possession of several broken Kiev units and a single worn out Contax III camera. While i'm ready to start experimenting and documenting the repair on the camera body (starting off by learning a bit with the Kiev bodies), the repair book does not cover dismantling of the back door locks.
I can't seem to find a tool that can grip the screw head holding the locks in place. I need a screwbit that can fasten itself around the head. Any ideas?
Grytpype
Well-known
The catches on the Kiev 4/4A are held on the inside by a screw (or a nut?) with two flats, which you should be able to undo with a spanner. The catches on the Contax IIa and IIIa are very similar as far as I can remember.
The catches on the Contax II and III and Kievs up to the 2a and 3a are completely different, with no nuts or screws, and apparently not designed to be taken apart. I have found a way of dismantling them which I will describe if you want, but unless you have a good reason for stripping them (e.g damage), I'd recommend that you leave them where they are!
If all you need to do is to lubricate them, get some Teflon or PTFE 'dry' lubricant from a cycle shop; push the catch from the outside against its spring washer to give some clearance inside, and run the lubricant into the gap.
Steve.
The catches on the Contax II and III and Kievs up to the 2a and 3a are completely different, with no nuts or screws, and apparently not designed to be taken apart. I have found a way of dismantling them which I will describe if you want, but unless you have a good reason for stripping them (e.g damage), I'd recommend that you leave them where they are!
If all you need to do is to lubricate them, get some Teflon or PTFE 'dry' lubricant from a cycle shop; push the catch from the outside against its spring washer to give some clearance inside, and run the lubricant into the gap.
Steve.
-Nash-
Established
Ah that would explain why it's not budging at all. If I were to remove one, how should I go about doing this?
Grytpype
Well-known
First make a note, or take a photo of how the inner part of the catch is positioned, open and closed, so that you can be sure of reassembling it correctly. Also note which side of the semi-circular chromed handle has a square edge at the bottom, and which has the rounded edge.
The only way to dismantle the catches is to extract the pivot-pin from the semi-circular handle. If you turn the catch to half-way between open and closed, the end of the pin you can see is the 'head'. On the Contax (not sure about the Kiev) you can see 3 'flutes' where the head is peened to make it a snug fit in the handle. You cannot turn the handle far enough to knock the pin out from the other side.
Turn the catch to the closed position, with the handle folded down. The head of the pin is towards the 'front' of the back. Make a tiny wedge (from a matchstick, for example) and wedge it between the handle and the surround near to, but not covering, the head of the pin. This is to maximise the clearance between the semi-circular handle and the chromed centre-piece at the side OPPOSITE the head of the pin. Press the blade of a craft knife into this clearance (grind it thinner if it is too thick) so that the edge digs into the pin as near as possible to the handle, and try to lever the pin out. Do this repeatedly, and if the pin is not unusually tight you should eventually see some movement. The amount you can move it is limited to perhaps 15 thousandths of an inch or so, before the head of the pin meets the surround, but you can then turn the catch to the half-way open position and continue by using the same tool and method on the exposed head of the pin until it is free.
The knife blade needs to be as sturdy as possible subject to the limitation of the clearance available. I used a Stanley knife with the blade ground down somewhat. I think in the US the knife might be called a box-cutter or utility knife.
Hope this makes sense - if not, let me know!
The only way to dismantle the catches is to extract the pivot-pin from the semi-circular handle. If you turn the catch to half-way between open and closed, the end of the pin you can see is the 'head'. On the Contax (not sure about the Kiev) you can see 3 'flutes' where the head is peened to make it a snug fit in the handle. You cannot turn the handle far enough to knock the pin out from the other side.
Turn the catch to the closed position, with the handle folded down. The head of the pin is towards the 'front' of the back. Make a tiny wedge (from a matchstick, for example) and wedge it between the handle and the surround near to, but not covering, the head of the pin. This is to maximise the clearance between the semi-circular handle and the chromed centre-piece at the side OPPOSITE the head of the pin. Press the blade of a craft knife into this clearance (grind it thinner if it is too thick) so that the edge digs into the pin as near as possible to the handle, and try to lever the pin out. Do this repeatedly, and if the pin is not unusually tight you should eventually see some movement. The amount you can move it is limited to perhaps 15 thousandths of an inch or so, before the head of the pin meets the surround, but you can then turn the catch to the half-way open position and continue by using the same tool and method on the exposed head of the pin until it is free.
The knife blade needs to be as sturdy as possible subject to the limitation of the clearance available. I used a Stanley knife with the blade ground down somewhat. I think in the US the knife might be called a box-cutter or utility knife.
Hope this makes sense - if not, let me know!
-Nash-
Established
Ah I see the pin now! Quite easy to miss that.
I've also noticed a black metal latch which stops the locks from freely spinning. A minor alteration causes you to turn the locks all the way round - although be gentle with the latch since its part of the back assembly.
I'll give this pin extraction a try soon. Thank you for your help!
I've also noticed a black metal latch which stops the locks from freely spinning. A minor alteration causes you to turn the locks all the way round - although be gentle with the latch since its part of the back assembly.
I'll give this pin extraction a try soon. Thank you for your help!
Grytpype
Well-known
Bending that stop-tab was my plan until I found I could remove the pin without!
It would have been OK just to obtain the parts I needed from a scrap back, though you would still only be able to push the pin a short way, and then turn to the half open position to remove the pin the rest of the way. I wasn't keen to do it on a good back, because the aluminium is fairly hard, and could be brittle.
It would have been OK just to obtain the parts I needed from a scrap back, though you would still only be able to push the pin a short way, and then turn to the half open position to remove the pin the rest of the way. I wasn't keen to do it on a good back, because the aluminium is fairly hard, and could be brittle.