Plenty of solid information about getting the shutter going right here. Actually I don't think there is another forum with the same level of discussion and knowledge on the web. Do a search for Contax II or III shutter. You'll find plenty of good reference material. Here are a few for starters but there are a lot more.
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=141710
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=140159
Rick Oleson knows his way around these cameras very well.
http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-23.html
http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-29.html
Do note that contrary to Rick's excellent sketches and notes, re-tensioning the shutter springs involves winding the adjuster
anti-clockwise,
not clockwise. Winding the spring the wrong way will break it, so do not forget this point, it's critical.
Peter Tooke wrote a repair manual for the II and III (with some short notes on the original Contax) and that is readily available online and not expensive. There are quite a few
on eBay right now.
One of the Tomosy repair books has a couple of pages on the Contax II.
The Maizenberg Soviet camera repair manual deals with the Kiev rangefinders but they're so close to the original Contaxes that the information in it is just as relevant to those as well.
As long as no parts are broken or damaged beyond repair (they won't usually be providing the camera has not been tampered with internally) it is certainly possible to replace the ribbons and get one working again. Over the years several RFF members have successfully done just that. As one of those, my own suggestion would be to bear in mind that these shutters are not like any other 35mm design, only a select few Zeiss Ikon cameras employed anything remotely similar them. Personally, I think the II/III shutter has a lot going for it despite its peculiarities. Once it's set up properly it will never cap or taper, something you certainly can't say about the "improved" post war Contaxes. But because it's so different to anything else, I think it's important to really get your head around how it works and what it is doing (or should be doing) at the various shutter speeds. When you understand the basics of how it operates, it will help you to interpret what your mechanism is doing when you have replaced the ribbons, and what, if anything, needs fine tuning to get the fast and slow speeds working properly (Eg. the clearance at the ribbon clutches or the spring tension). If you use what most people seem to think are the best substitute for the original ribbons (those from Aki Asahi, which, being in Japan, will probably be some of the most convenient for you to procure anyway) then, you're most likely going to have to gently decrease the clearance at the clutches for starters, to persuade the curtains to travel as one for the high speeds.
In summary I would definitely not suggesting ripping into it immediately. Arm yourself with the knowledge and basic understanding you need to tackle the work and your chances of success will be much greater. I speak from experience!
Cheers
Brett
