contax IIa advice needed

[davidswiss]

I hope some of you more experienced in IIa's can advise me on this.
I bought my first IIa a few months ago but on receipt it would not focus on infinity and the focusing wheel was quite stiff. I put a roll of film through it and as suspected every picture was out of focus. It was sent back and the seller passed it to his tech. who has fixed the focus problem but cannot fix the stiff focus wheel. He also put a film in to test but made all the shots using the lens barrel to focus.
This has been going on for months now and now that the camera is as ready as they can make it I am tempted to say post it to me and I'll try using the barrel to focus.
Maybe the stiff focus wheel problem can be fixed later by someone else.
As an afterthought the original cost was over $480 US. I don't know if I'm looking at a great or a bad deal.
All thoughts and ideas are welcome.

 

[Timmyjoe]

What lens came with the camera?

As far as the price goes, that seems a little high to me, for the issues with the focus, unless it has a lens that is in fantastic condition with the body. I've got a Contax IIIa in the classifieds that is fully functional, save the light meter. It focuses accurately and there is no issue with using the focus wheel. It has the Carl Zeiss Jena 5cm f2 lens. There are a number of sample images posted that were made with the camera. I've got it listed for $295. So $480 seems a little high.

Best,
-Tim

 

[TenEleven]

Agreeing with Tim that the price is quite high unless it has a very clean or desirable lens on it. Is it a color dial (recognizable by the shutter speeds being yellow/red/black and having a normal flash sync post)? For that price it better be.

The focus wheel stiffness is a relatively (for camera repair) easy fix, so that your seller says that this is impossible to do is a bit worrying.

 

[Grytpype]

The focus wheel on the IIa/IIIa does tend to be a little stiffer than on the pre-war Contax cameras, but should not be a major problem in use. If there is hardened grease on the mechanism between the focus wheel and the focus helical it can cause stiffness. If a normal lens-helical type grease has been used on the focus helical itself, it will also be very stiff to focus. I always use a Teflon 'dry-lube' on this.

As TenEleven has said, this should be an easy fix for a camera repair tech that knew what he was doing. The price seems high for a camera that is not in 100% working condition.

Steve.

 

[davidswiss]

Thank you for the replies, all are useful.
In answer to the question about the lens, it's the standard F2 5cm Zeiss and is in good condition.
I put the price in $ because North american forumers (new word) seem more likely to use these cameras. I am actually in Switzerland at the moment and will be returning to the UK in a few weeks.
I did not make contact about the nice IIIa in the classified section because I particularly wanted a IIa, am still in the process of buying/not buying the IIa under discussion and because the IIIa is not for sale outside of the USA.
The answers you all gave me have changed my opinion and I think I'll reject the camera and continue on my search.
Thanks again to all who answered.

 

[markjwyatt]

I would add that any Contax camera/lens combo you can buy for under $350 or so probably at least needs a CLA, and may need repairs. Be prepared to invest at least $500 to have a fully functional Contax (unless you get lucky). My iia ended up costing me $450 (iia, 50mm Optron f2, Nikon zoom finder), and works almost like a new camera.

I agree on the iia vs. iiia. iiia is a good back-up body, but the extra bulk of a non-reliable, and likely non-functional meter is of questionable value. Of course you can get a better iiia for less.

 

[Doug]

...I did not make contact about the nice IIIa in the classified section because I particularly wanted a IIa, am still in the process of buying/not buying the IIa under discussion and because the IIIa is not for sale outside of the USA...

You are in good company in preferring the IIa over the IIIa, as it does seem more popular, and I have not checked recently but I seem to recall the IIIa usually sells for less.


I bought a IIIa body for $155 (with a Jupiter-8) that had a stiff focus wheel as you describe, and while a clean sample it generally needed servicing. I had a CLA done, also replacing the meter cell, for $190 and it turned out very nice. But the focus wheel is still not particularly comfortable to use.

 

[Ko.Fe.]

Over 480 USD for non working camera is costly rip-off.

RRFF users did team work and made thread how to CLA IIa (it was based on old Yahoo group threads). But RRFF has it in Russian.
I was holding in hands IIa restored under this thread. Incredibly nice camera. All of those Kievs and its origin are just Ladas comparing to IIa. But I'm just cool with my parents FED-2 for 50mm only camera and my IIIc Barnack for well under 300 USD after CLA with parts and just dim RF 🙂.

 

[markjwyatt]

...
I bought a IIIa body for $155 (with a Jupiter-8) that had a stiff focus wheel as you describe, and while a clean sample it generally needed servicing. I had a CLA done, also replacing the meter cell, for $190 and it turned out very nice. But the focus wheel is still not particularly comfortable to use.

When did you get the meter cell replaced? Was it accurate? If that is possible, even though selenium cells are not as good (especially in low light), it could still be helpful. I am not sure if anyone is replacing selenium cells anymore (at least with new ones).

 

[Doug]

Hi Mark -- This was back in Aug 2006, work done well by Steve Serota / Camera-Care in Pennsylvania. His website is gone, I think he's out of business. He said he had the meter cell material made to order fresh, adding a week and $45 to the job. Meter worked fine, good to get that dead cell replaced. Time passes...

 

[David Hughes]

When did you get the meter cell replaced? Was it accurate? If that is possible, even though selenium cells are not as good (especially in low light), it could still be helpful. I am not sure if anyone is replacing selenium cells anymore (at least with new ones).

Not as good in low light is, to me, like saying a car is not very fast compared to a car that can top 200mph. With comparisons you have to say what it is being compared with.

It's really a matter of what you use the thing for and I have my doubts that cameras with the old style meters are intended these days to be used the same way as a brand new "pro" one.

Looking at several I have I see they are OK for everyday photography with (say) supermarket film in them.


Regards, David

 

[Pherdinand]

Modern meters are overrated. Especially nowadays in black and white film usage with an old camera where speed and long lenses are not a goal anyway.
A simple yashica gsn 's single cell meter works prefect for most of the time.

Yeah seleniums are a bit less sensitive but still okay unless you are talking a dark pub or so.

 

[Highway 61]

Once properly cleaned, lubed (with modern lithium or teflon grease and the fewest grease amount) and adjusted (so that there is as little friction as possible through the whole geartrain), the Contax IIa focusing wheel must turn very freely under your finger, and the lens mount helical must go from min. focusing distance to infinity without any stiffness.

 

[davidswiss]

This is al useful stuff, thanks to all. As an extra favour does anyone know of a decent IIa available in the UK or Switzerland (I'm here until 21st) ?

 

[markjwyatt]

Not as good in low light is, to me, like saying a car is not very fast compared to a car that can top 200mph. With comparisons you have to say what it is being compared with.

It's really a matter of what you use the thing for and I have my doubts that cameras with the old style meters are intended these days to be used the same way as a brand new "pro" one.

Looking at several I have I see they are OK for everyday photography with (say) supermarket film in them.


Regards, David

Agreed, but if you are shooting TMax 3200, there may be a point where the meter is not so useful. Of course for night street type pics (including indoors), I often just guess anyway. I have two cameras where the selenium meters still seem to work to some reasonable degree, both Kodak Retinas, a IIIc and a Reflex IV. One from the early 50s and the other the early 60s.