1XATNOC
Newbie
Hi. I recently bought a good looking IIIa and have just got my first prints back. Although the meter appears to be fairly accurate, I believe there is an exposure problem. Most of the pictures have a black bar or band across the top of the print. Is this a curtain/shutter problem or what? I live in the UK, can anyone recommend a reliable repairer, if necessary? I have made some repairs on a Contax III in the past and if this is a fairly easy fix, I will have a go! Thank you.
myequation
Member
First step would be to set the shutter at B
and view the shutter blades with the back removed.
maybe the blades are not opening entirely.
and view the shutter blades with the back removed.
maybe the blades are not opening entirely.
ZeissFan
Veteran
This sounds like a tapering shutter, which likely would occur at the higher speeds.
The Contax IIIa and Contax III are mechanically different cameras. They share no parts. The Contax IIIa (and the IIa) are in many ways simpler to disassemble and service than the II/III.
It's very possible that routine service will bring this camera back into spec.
Classic camera author Ivor Mantanle writes that the Contax shutter repays frequent use. Which means that the more you use it, the less likely it will taper.
Remove the lens and the back, hold it up to the light and tension and release the shutter at all speeds.
You should see a clean rectangle. It's common for the postwar Contax shutter to begin tapering (or not open at all) on the highest speeds (500 and 1250). And what you'll see is some shading in the rectangle.
The Contax IIIa and Contax III are mechanically different cameras. They share no parts. The Contax IIIa (and the IIa) are in many ways simpler to disassemble and service than the II/III.
It's very possible that routine service will bring this camera back into spec.
Classic camera author Ivor Mantanle writes that the Contax shutter repays frequent use. Which means that the more you use it, the less likely it will taper.
Remove the lens and the back, hold it up to the light and tension and release the shutter at all speeds.
You should see a clean rectangle. It's common for the postwar Contax shutter to begin tapering (or not open at all) on the highest speeds (500 and 1250). And what you'll see is some shading in the rectangle.
1XATNOC
Newbie
Thank you both. I noticed just after posting my question, that the bottom shutter blind was in fact not going below the the opening thus causing the the blacked out area at the top of the frame. Question now is can I remedy this myself as I cannot afford to get the camera serviced at the moment. I do have a Contax 1 that I have succesfully put a film through as well as a Leica III and more modern Leicas but the Contax IIIa looks so good that I will want to use it regularly! I suppose I can always cut off and remove the top of the print!!
raid
Dad Photographer
Eddy Smolov may be able to repair the camera totally for $75.
Monz
Monz
In the UK, I would recommend:
Ed Trzoska (Euro Photographic Services, Leicester)
Ed specialises in Contax and is very good. I bought a serviced Contax IIIa from him a year ago.. it works really well .
EDIT: HIs phone number is: 0116 2674247
--
Monz
Ed Trzoska (Euro Photographic Services, Leicester)
Ed specialises in Contax and is very good. I bought a serviced Contax IIIa from him a year ago.. it works really well .
EDIT: HIs phone number is: 0116 2674247
--
Monz
ZeissFan
Veteran
Thank you both. I noticed just after posting my question, that the bottom shutter blind was in fact not going below the the opening thus causing the the blacked out area at the top of the frame.
The question is this: What's causing the bottom curtain to not fully open?
It might be a simple fix (clean, lubricate and reset to factory tension) or it might be more complicated (worst case scenario would be a broken spring in the lower shutter drum).
Or it might be as simple as a piece of debris (film chip, for example), that is fouling the mechanism.
Disassembly of a Contax IIIa isn't too difficult, but there are a lot of parts. Pay particular attention to the order in which parts are removed near the rewind post. And be mindful of the small ball bearing and spring in the post.
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