Ste_S
Well-known
I finally got around to getting a Zeiss 50 1.7 MM for the body that garageboy kindly sent me.
However it looks as though lens, whilst working fine in Av and M, is broken as the camera won't switch into P or Tv modes. There's a lug on the outside of the lens that looks broken, and I think this needs to engage with a switch on the outside of the lens mount ?
Is this a common thing for the MM lug to be broken ? Any easy home fixes ?
However it looks as though lens, whilst working fine in Av and M, is broken as the camera won't switch into P or Tv modes. There's a lug on the outside of the lens that looks broken, and I think this needs to engage with a switch on the outside of the lens mount ?
Is this a common thing for the MM lug to be broken ? Any easy home fixes ?
oftheherd
Veteran
I think I've reached the top of the GAS pile and found the 35mm cameras I'm most comfortable with - a Nikon F4, with a FE when I want something a bit lighter.
However, I have a Contax/Yashica itch I'd like to scratch just to be sureRecommendations ?
A trusted seller has a 167MT body cheaply, but then I've not heard great things about these ?
Minimum spec
Manual and aperture priority exposure modes
Metering for up to ISO 3200
Exposure lock and compensation
Nice large and bright viewfinder
Motor drive options - either built in or add on unit.
Ability to override DX coding (if camera reads DX)
Would be nice if it had..
TTL Flash
Matrix metering
Shutter speeds faster than 1/1000sec
Program mode
Never gave up on my Fujica ST 109. But when I got a Contax 139Q on sale at the PX, with a 50mm f/1.4, also on sale I really fell in love with it and used it a lot until it died right after a bad house fire.
Well, I soon got a close cousin Yashica which was quite good and actually had some features the 139Q didn't have. I got an FX3 as my backup as it was totally manual except the light meter. That wasn't a deal breaker for me since I almost always had a Gosen SBC with me. I later got a 167mt and love it also. I found I didn't care for the motor drive (on any camera really) but soon got used to it. It is really a great camera as well.
The cameras and lenses are great. I have no fear of not getting great photos from the Yashica cameras. Actually, since the Contax lenses, great though they are, are usually rather expensive, I would recommend buying the Yashica camera and save the money for the Contax lenses.
I think you will be quite happy.
robertofollia
Established
The FX3 is a very good manual camera. The MEchanical Contax S2 shares the same chassis as the 139Q and yasthica FX-3, but with spot metering, with titanium covers, and 1/4000 top exposure. The rare Contax S2b is an S2 with integral metering.
The Aria is a very good camera, light enough, with very good exposure metering (to me it's the best one I've used). But.... it's a motored film transport camera. Viewfinder is so bright, and the information is so well displayed...Perfect light camera for travelling, but have a backup in case of no battery situation. Mine went to Argentina twice in late autumn, to the glaciers with no problems, but it was 15 years ago. Has not seen serious action since 2008, but every month does around 50 dry shots to keep fit
The 139Q, I like it so much, never had owned one but I've bought one recently, but came out defective, so returned it and waiting for the replacement.
The only problem with contax cameras is parts and service, as support has been finished since 2015, but in the US still nippon photo clinic services them.
I would bite the bullet and go for one of them. Love the feel of the 139, feels sol solid and good on the hands,the aperture priority is more than enough, and you have also the choice manual mode, but the camera itself is electronic.
For mechanical bodies, only choice is Contax S2 or Yashica FX.3. I would go for the yashica. Still own after 25 years the contax S2, it's really nice and wonderful, but could have bought a Yashica instead and the 1,4 planar instead of the S2 and 1.7 planar.
After all, I have never shot at 1/2000 or 1/4000, so the FX3 would have fulfilled my needs perfectly
Best regards
The Aria is a very good camera, light enough, with very good exposure metering (to me it's the best one I've used). But.... it's a motored film transport camera. Viewfinder is so bright, and the information is so well displayed...Perfect light camera for travelling, but have a backup in case of no battery situation. Mine went to Argentina twice in late autumn, to the glaciers with no problems, but it was 15 years ago. Has not seen serious action since 2008, but every month does around 50 dry shots to keep fit
The 139Q, I like it so much, never had owned one but I've bought one recently, but came out defective, so returned it and waiting for the replacement.
The only problem with contax cameras is parts and service, as support has been finished since 2015, but in the US still nippon photo clinic services them.
I would bite the bullet and go for one of them. Love the feel of the 139, feels sol solid and good on the hands,the aperture priority is more than enough, and you have also the choice manual mode, but the camera itself is electronic.
For mechanical bodies, only choice is Contax S2 or Yashica FX.3. I would go for the yashica. Still own after 25 years the contax S2, it's really nice and wonderful, but could have bought a Yashica instead and the 1,4 planar instead of the S2 and 1.7 planar.
After all, I have never shot at 1/2000 or 1/4000, so the FX3 would have fulfilled my needs perfectly
Best regards
europanorama
Well-known
RTS I naming is wrong confusing. Its RTS. like RX and RXII(no focus-aid here).I've had Contax cameras in the past and loved them. I had the venerable 139 which has stood up well over the decades with respect to reliability, and the 137 with built-in motor. I also had an RTS I which I could in no way recommend. At the time Contaxes were revolutionary with respect to their electronics, and the Zeiss lenses were to die for. Over several years I had no issues with the 139 and 137, but the RTS I was horrible and after a while I learned that mine was unfixable and I got my money back. The first RTS ended up with a poor reputation. The RTS II fared better, but I can't speak about that model from experience. I haven't heard anything negative about later Contax models, particularly the 167MT which I did feel some interest for at one stage, but did nothing about. But considering their age (I had mine in the early 80s-early 90s) I'd be a bit cautious about buying an early model now. But I still think the Zeiss lenses are a strong incentive to consider Contax. Good luck with your journey.
it has no ceramics-filmpressure plate like someone is telling. ST like RTS III have.
europanorama
Well-known
137 had two versions. not signed . i dont mean 137MA which i recommend over 137 anyway: has manual shutter-times. second newer version of 137 has Auto-off lightmeter.in bag with non-auto-off-version, lightmeter could go on. battery-draining. autooff after 10 secs. inside and outside lights. touching button reactivates.
europanorama
Well-known
159MM my experience
159MM my experience
with my only camera on an important event i used professional TTL-flash, had two of them with me.
It turned out that 50% of the shots were underexposed... optoelectronic part dying.
Winder 7-is a plastic-wonder. if using heavy lenses winder will be off-contacts... what the h. was kyocera thinking?
i liked the AE-lock most. Messwertspeicher. one can change aperture together with speed. without changing exposure.
btw: with yashica 108 and 109 one can shoot program-mode also with AE(non MM-lenses). Sigma also made some or one MM(s).
After my desaster i stopped shooting 35mm. have the mechanical yashicas and Nikon MF. yes C/Y lenses match and with 200mm portraits possible.
good tip about the aria and non-mirror-slipping. On youtube is a workaround.
RTS III seems the only one with flashmeter. thought ST also has.
adapting C/Y on Canon EOS is another champter. consulting google or RFF advised. only use Novoflex or K+ F concept-adapters. K+ F going beyong infinity. only mounting chip is delicate since 0.3mm shim must be added to enlarge L-Steel/between chip and adapter. it doesnt reach contact. forget optixpcb on this behalf Highprecision=No presicion. chip is ok but eTTL-chip can be had on ebay from bielarus(if i dont err). he has a mounting-service. no also delivers the important template to find the right chip-position .
159MM my experience
never serviced my contax only when they had a problem....Aria is a wonderful camera, 139 is nice and cheap, 167 is surprisingly good, I don't like both of the 137, RTS have bad rep but most of them died long ago and those still working should go strong for some time, and you can find them for half the price of RTS II, both wonderful, sturdy cameras with gorgeous viewfinders. RTS III... heard some nasty stories, seen some dying examples, still if you hold it once you'll want one. RX has a wonderful grip, maybe just for me but one of the best I've handled, ST is also a nice option. I've never seen 159MM I think, should be similar to 139.
with my only camera on an important event i used professional TTL-flash, had two of them with me.
It turned out that 50% of the shots were underexposed... optoelectronic part dying.
Winder 7-is a plastic-wonder. if using heavy lenses winder will be off-contacts... what the h. was kyocera thinking?
i liked the AE-lock most. Messwertspeicher. one can change aperture together with speed. without changing exposure.
btw: with yashica 108 and 109 one can shoot program-mode also with AE(non MM-lenses). Sigma also made some or one MM(s).
After my desaster i stopped shooting 35mm. have the mechanical yashicas and Nikon MF. yes C/Y lenses match and with 200mm portraits possible.
good tip about the aria and non-mirror-slipping. On youtube is a workaround.
RTS III seems the only one with flashmeter. thought ST also has.
adapting C/Y on Canon EOS is another champter. consulting google or RFF advised. only use Novoflex or K+ F concept-adapters. K+ F going beyong infinity. only mounting chip is delicate since 0.3mm shim must be added to enlarge L-Steel/between chip and adapter. it doesnt reach contact. forget optixpcb on this behalf Highprecision=No presicion. chip is ok but eTTL-chip can be had on ebay from bielarus(if i dont err). he has a mounting-service. no also delivers the important template to find the right chip-position .
europanorama
Well-known
On AX AF is also working on F8(mirror) lenses which have catadioptic-lens-design. Normal AF only til f5.6.I had the 167MT some years ago, sold it on. It felt a bit outmoded and limited. The RX seems to tick most of your boxes except matrix metering. It has a very good viewfinder and it shows you when the lens is in focus (passive AF). It's light and very nice to shoot. The AX does AF on manual lenses by moving the film carriage, but it's bulky and on the heavy side. The Aria has matrix metering, but I cannot comment any further since I've not tried one. You can find all the specs for these cameras here: http://cdegroot.com/photo-contax/
europanorama
Well-known
not similar at all. only similarity: removable winder. contax winder 139 II should work on 159MM only hasnt vertical grip for horizontal shooting. yashica-winder also working on RTS. we added vertical trigger to original RTS -winder.Aria is a wonderful camera, 139 is nice and cheap, 167 is surprisingly good, I don't like both of the 137, RTS have bad rap but most of them died long ago and those still working should go strong for some time, and you can find them for half the price of RTS II, both wonderful, sturdy cameras with gorgeus viewfinders. RTS III... heard some nasty stories, seen some dying examples, still if you hold it once you'll want one. RX has a wonderful grip, maybe just for me but one of the best I've handled, ST is also a nice option. I've never seen 159 I think, should be similar to 139.
europanorama
Well-known
Thinking is not knowing. there was no 138....I think the ST with the grip is the best overall unless you want the RTS III, but that is quite a large camera. My favorite after the ST is probably the 138Q. With the grip it is a really nice size. After those two I'd probably go with the RX. The AX is a beast and I don't think there is anyone left who will fix it. The Aria is kinda small. Not a fan. The most expensive one these days is the S2 which is all mechanical. Too bad they cost so much. i'd love to have one.
If you want a less expensive one, the Yashica FR 1 is a solid basic camera though you could probably get a 139Q for about the same price.
AX can be serviced in germany only havent verified if done in G.
europanorama
Well-known
Gossen, C/Y -Contax-Yashica-lenses meaning the mount. Zeiss, Yashica and others. Contax-lenses do not exist but lenses for Contax-Yashica-mount.Never gave up on my Fujica ST 109. But when I got a Contax 139Q on sale at the PX, with a 50mm f/1.4, also on sale I really fell in love with it and used it a lot until it died right after a bad house fire.
Well, I soon got a close cousin Yashica which was quite good and actually had some features the 139Q didn't have. I got an FX3 as my backup as it was totally manual except the light meter. That wasn't a deal breaker for me since I almost always had a Gosen SBC with me. I later got a 167mt and love it also. I found I didn't care for the motor drive (on any camera really) but soon got used to it. It is really a great camera as well.
The cameras and lenses are great. I have no fear of not getting great photos from the Yashica cameras. Actually, since the Contax lenses, great though they are, are usually rather expensive, I would recommend buying the Yashica camera and save the money for the Contax lenses.
I think you will be quite happy.
europanorama
Well-known
S2b doesnt have spot only like S2The FX3 is a very good manual camera. The MEchanical Contax S2 shares the same chassis as the 139Q and yasthica FX-3, but with spot metering, with titanium covers, and 1/4000 top exposure. The rare Contax S2b is an S2 with integral metering.
The Aria is a very good camera, light enough, with very good exposure metering (to me it's the best one I've used). But.... it's a motored film transport camera. Viewfinder is so bright, and the information is so well displayed...Perfect light camera for travelling, but have a backup in case of no battery situation. Mine went to Argentina twice in late autumn, to the glaciers with no problems, but it was 15 years ago. Has not seen serious action since 2008, but every month does around 50 dry shots to keep fit
The 139Q, I like it so much, never had owned one but I've bought one recently, but came out defective, so returned it and waiting for the replacement.
The only problem with contax cameras is parts and service, as support has been finished since 2015, but in the US still nippon photo clinic services them.
I would bite the bullet and go for one of them. Love the feel of the 139, feels sol solid and good on the hands,the aperture priority is more than enough, and you have also the choice manual mode, but the camera itself is electronic.
For mechanical bodies, only choice is Contax S2 or Yashica FX.3. I would go for the yashica. Still own after 25 years the contax S2, it's really nice and wonderful, but could have bought a Yashica instead and the 1,4 planar instead of the S2 and 1.7 planar.
After all, I have never shot at 1/2000 or 1/4000, so the FX3 would have fulfilled my needs perfectly
Best regards
FX3-Super 2000 has 1/2000
and FX3 has an external exposure meter lever. I like it on main button of FX3-super and super 2000. Phenix also made these Yashica inside.
FX2 has cloth-shutter horizonal 1/60 metallic body completely.
oftheherd
Veteran
Never gave up on my Fujica ST 109. But when I got a Contax 139Q on sale at the PX, with a 50mm f/1.4, also on sale I really fell in love with it and used it a lot until it died right after a bad house fire.
Well, I soon got a close cousin Yashica which was quite good and actually had some features the 139Q didn't have. I got an FX3 as my backup as it was totally manual except the light meter. That wasn't a deal breaker for me since I almost always had a Gosen SBC with me. I later got a 167mt and love it also. I found I didn't care for the motor drive (on any camera really) but soon got used to it. It is really a great camera as well.
The cameras and lenses are great. I have no fear of not getting great photos from the Yashica cameras. Actually, since the Contax lenses, great though they are, are usually rather expensive, I would recommend buying the Yashica camera and save the money for the Contax lenses.
I think you will be quite happy.
Gossen, C/Y -Contax-Yashica-lenses meaning the mount. Zeiss, Yashica and others. Contax-lenses do not exist but lenses for Contax-Yashica-mount.
Thanks for your comments. They made me go back and read my post again. It is what happens when I get in a hurry. I mentioned the 139Q having a motor drive. Actually it had an aux winder that could be used. It had shutter release buttons for both horizontal and vertical use (so did the Yashica equivalent but it looked diffferent). The first few times I used it I was enamored with the sound. Lots of people looking at me made me feel important. I soon got very tired of the sound and extra weight and it bothered me. I didn't have a need for it in my photography and just quit using it. You probably had a need for winders or motor drives in your in your photography. When I needed it I didn't have the 139Q yet, but my Fujica ST 901 sufficed quite well.
I was puzzled by your mention that Contax lenses didn't exist. My recollection of the mostly magazine media reporting of the time was that some lenses at least, if not some cameras, were made by Contax in Germany. Even those others made in the far east had Contax on the lenses, and were reportedly made under control of Zeiss for quality control.
The same reason I mentioned only Gossen SBC probably is the same hurry up syndrome. Gossen had more light meters that used the SCB cell, but the one I have is the first, Luna Pro SBC. I always wanted that meter after getting the Fujica ST 901. (Those SBC blue cells were and are nice.)
But anyway, I appreciate and enjoyed you comments.
Ste_S
Well-known
A couple of photos from the test roll through the 167MT. Thanks again Garageboy and sorry it took me so long to use it !
Both Lomography 800, 50mm 1.7 Planar
Both Lomography 800, 50mm 1.7 Planar


phofseth
Established
I occasionally use a contax ST. Its exposure is spot on and the finder is very bright, but I dislike the inaccuracy of using its focussing screen and find the original Leitz SL or the later R8 far better. The optics of both systems are entirely satisfactory - and can mostly be used on Canon digital bodies as well as on MFTs. If you like to focus manually, acommodating adapter chips need not worry you.
p
p
santino
FSU gear head
Nothing better than the ST. Small, capable of everything and it uses common batteries.
Jeremy Z
Well-known
I looked into it about 23 years ago. I decided the main thing I wanted to try were the Carl Zeiss optics.
I got a Yashica FX3 Super 2000 body and a 50/1.4 Zeiss Planar to go on it. The lens was great, but not really any better than any other 50/1.4 I'd used. (incl. SMC Pentax, Nikkor, Canon, Zuiko) They're built heavier and with firmer damping. Not necessarily better, on either count.
Skip it, is my advice, and refocus your GAS elsewhere. Maybe a new lens for digital... or some film & processing.
I got a Yashica FX3 Super 2000 body and a 50/1.4 Zeiss Planar to go on it. The lens was great, but not really any better than any other 50/1.4 I'd used. (incl. SMC Pentax, Nikkor, Canon, Zuiko) They're built heavier and with firmer damping. Not necessarily better, on either count.
Skip it, is my advice, and refocus your GAS elsewhere. Maybe a new lens for digital... or some film & processing.
Huss
Veteran
I occasionally use a contax ST. Its exposure is spot on and the finder is very bright, but I dislike the inaccuracy of using its focussing screen and find the original Leitz SL or the later R8 far better. The optics of both systems are entirely satisfactory - and can mostly be used on Canon digital bodies as well as on MFTs. If you like to focus manually, acommodating adapter chips need not worry you.
p
If it is inaccurate to focus it sounds like the mirror or screen is misaligned.
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