Contax sync cable

[Dez]

I recently bought a sync cable for my black dial Contax IIA. This was the #1361 version for flashbulbs, which is much easier to find than the #1366 for electronic flash. Given the way the plunger in the sync terminal on the camera works, it seems likely that the only difference between the two versions of the cable is the distance the plunger needs to move before firing the flash, further for X sync than for F. It seems to reason then that the adaptor cable can be modified for X-sync by moving the contact point a bit further back. Has anybody on the list done this modification, or know the exact distance the contact point needs to move?

Thanks,

Dez

 

[David Murphy]

Daz,

The 1361 sync cable will drive modern electronic flash without problems. The only difference, as I understand it between the 1361 and 1366 is that the 1361 uses electrical fittings rated for lower current. The first electronic strobes were much higher current devices than modern strobe units.

 

[sevo]

It was not possible on mine - that is, it was not possible to get it to X sync by merely adjusting the contact. I am quite confident that it would have been possible by filing a little bit off the plunger (or at the very least by having another plunger turned if the bit would have to be taken off at a place that cannot be filed) - but what with a #1366 on ebay once or twice a month for fairly modest money I did not try.

 

[sevo]

The 1361 sync cable will drive modern electronic flash without problems.

YMMV. It will at the very least require adjusting - as is, it is supposed to give the flash bulb a head start and will already fire when the curtain has barely begun to open. And mine at least cannot be adjusted far enough - even if I turn it all the way out (or whatever way the late start was), the first curtain still covers about 1/5 of the image when the contact closes (and a electronic flash would fire).

 

[Dez]

It may turn out to be necessary to modify the camera instead of the cable, which I would prefer not to do. Since the same plunger in the camera must be able to provide two different timings with the cables, I assume the difference must be realized in a different contact point in the cable. If it is possible to disassemble the cable end, there may be possibilities. I'll just add this to the very long queue of things I will get around to one of these days.

Cheers,
Dez