Contax T

As much as I like the T, the T2 makes more sense for a few reasons. Focusing down to 0.7 meters instead of 1 meter, ultra hard and flat ceramic pressure plate like the one used in the RTS III, better exposure compensation control (+/- 2 EV in 0.5 EV steps vs. only +1.5 EV), built-in flash, DX coding and can focus even in near or total darkness. The biggest advantage of the T as I see it is an optical rangefinder that can't be fooled like an active IR autofocus, greater low end meter sensitivity (0 EV vs. 3 EV) and virtually no shutter lag.
 
I've had my (formerly Gerry's) T for about a year and a half now.. it's my "carry everywhere" piece.. usually in my glove compartment or nestled in my jacket pocket.. I've put 160 to 800 speed film through it with beautiful results.. the lens is crisp, with a neutral tone.. neither warm nor cold.. I'd have to say that easily half of all of my best shots were taken with the T.. the lens is nearly equal to my vintage Sonnar 50/1.5

the size is excellent, altho sausage-fingered individuals might have a hard time focusing

the T is full-time aperture exposure (AE) and in evenly lit situations the meter has never failed me.. and I frequently use it with slide film.. however, it can be fooled in low-light situations with a distinct light source anywhere in the frame.. it has a 'backlight' button that can compensate, but I rarely remember to use that

I do, however, commonly use the hyperfocal settings clearly printed on the focusing ring.. at F8 it will focus from 4 ft to infinity in most lighting situations

also, I occasionally turn on the timer by mistake and wonder why I missed my shot.. to make matters worse, as I'm staring at the camera trying to see what I did wrong, I end up taking a photo of myself.. not a fault of the camera, but rather my stupidity

the only other caveat about the original T is that it has a tendency to overlap frames.. and always involving your best shots.. it happens at least once every other roll of film

still, the image quality, the nearly silent shutter, and the small rugged body make it my camera of choice for bringing along 'just in case'
 
Good for Michiel, bad for me. I had the $200 bid that sat on the T until this morning. Oh well, c'est la vie. There will always be other cool cameras to covet :) Is the winner a forum member?
 
Brett, when you load the T, after you close the back, do you wind the film back until the rewind feels tight? I very rarely get the overlap and I don't remeber a problem with that camera.
 
I just want to add that when I say always, I mean always, even when it's just there as a backup. I typically put Kodachrome in one camera and Scala in the other (okay so now it's Provia and Foma R) which was usually a CLE or M5 and sometimes I had a tough time remembering which was in which camera when I looked at the chromes on the lightbox.
 
FrankS said:
Wow. I was watching this, even though I'm not registered with ebay, and it went from $310 to $426 with 9 seconds to go. Congrats, Michiel. I should have bought it from you privately a few weeks ago when I had the chance (but no money!)

I was watching it too after reading this thread!(but had somehow resisted a GAS bid).

Seems several others on RFF were watching too. Ironic what an enthusiastic thread will do on RFF, and that it didn't sell here on the classifieds without this thread....
 
Flinor said:
Brett, when you load the T, after you close the back, do you wind the film back until the rewind feels tight? I very rarely get the overlap and I don't remeber a problem with that camera.
Gerry, I don't think I did that religiously, but probably did once in a while.. I'll make a mental note to start tensioning the film the way you describe.. maybe that's all it takes

btw, how is your silver T doing after you had it fixed?
 
Hello, I have a Contax T that is working, but the back door / camera back has problems: one of the silver rails that presses the film pressure plate down is missing, and the door lock is broken.

If someone has a dead Contax T with a good back door assembly, I would like to buy it. Black or silver model is fine, and I don't care about cosmetics, as long as it is mechanically fine.

THANKS!
 
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