Contax T3 vs. Nikon 35Ti

[David_Manning]

The Contax T3 can be set to manual focus (for pre-focus) while still metering automatically. Fast fast, with all the benefits of a Zeiss Sonnar 35/2.8...just shoot hyper-focally.

 

[Archlich]

Can a T3 owner clear up the shutter lag question? The T2 which I own is from the early days of P&S, when the lens would move into focus only after the shutter was hit, leading to significant shutter lag. Does the T3 have the more modern AF where the lens is focused on the half-depress?

To clear it up once and for all:


1. By default, the T3 extends the lens AFTER the shutter button is pressed. Meanwhile, out of the camera's seven custom functions the CUSTOM FUNCTION 02 allows the user to set the camera to extend its lens while the shutter is HALF-PRESSED.

2. Regardless of the custom function setting, after using the AFL function to have the camera memorize the current focus distance, the lens always extends AFTER the shutter button is pressed.

3. When using the Manual Focus function to preset the focus distance, the lens always extends to the selected distance setting after the first time the shutter is half-pressed and REMAINS SO until power off or the setting is canceled (Custom Function 07)



4. Talking about the shutter lag: it's definitely there, but minor. Although the T3's shutter is not as responsive as the the one on a Snap Mode GR1, when manual focused (with the lens extended all the time) it's still fast enough to capture critical moments, qualifying itself for serious street works.


And yes it is much faster than the T2, especially when auto focusing. To my experience the T3 is one of the fastest focusing P&S camera of its class, second only to the brutal Hexar.

 

[emraphoto]

All you peeps talking about shutter lag. Are you all taking sports shots? Because if not, then why is a slight delay causing such a big fuss?

The lag in the t2 and the stylus cameras pretty much cripples them for shooting anything on the move. These are not decisive moment cameras.

The 35ti loses out to the T3 in size only if you ask me. The real strength (and reason I went with the 35ti) is that matrix metering. It is bang on 9.5 out of 10 times.

 

[jsrockit]

The lag in the t2 and the stylus cameras pretty much cripples them for shooting anything on the move. These are not decisive moment cameras.

I agree. 😀

 

[bitfeng]

Agree. "Guessestimate" is the key for candid shot. Can shoot at waist level no problem. I am not used to focus with a viewfinder anymore.

Get a Rollei 35. Simple to use. Unobtrusive. Great pix. Used to have a T3. never got used to the menu although the lens was great.

 

[Sid836]

I love the looks of the Nikon. I have never had any of them so one for the good looking 35Ti from me.

 

[thegman]

Don't own either, but would not be able to turn down those analogue dials on the 35Ti. I'm shallow, I admit it.

 

[Iver Aldas]

T3 vs 35Ti? Oh man, 35Ti is a nothing compared to the infamous T3. Its a joy to have a T3 in your pocket considering the performance and reliability of this camera. Yes there are some flaws like the lack of LCD illumination, settings reset when camera is turned off, and of course the very high market price. We are a creative people and we could always look for solutions on how to overcome these flaws. Overall if you are into quality, performance, and reliability, I would suggest that you go with the T3 and not with any other point and shoot cameras. 😉

 

[agfa100]

Size wins in this contest, the T3. However one that has not been brought up is the last Minox 35 GTE II which is my choice, great little lens and very light. I know the metal feels nicer on the T3 but don't forget the Minox.

 

[mob81]

Consider the fuji klasse S new or used at good prices. Also, it's still serviceable.

I have the Minolta tc-1 and fuji klasse S and both are really great and lenses are great too.

 

[thegman]

I used to have a Klasse S, and have now just seen my brother's 35Ti. I must say, the 35Ti is the more appealing, just for those dials. However, my Klasse did break, and Fujifilm fixed it for free, so you can't discount the appeal of a camera still being serviceable.

 

[matt_mcg2]

As per mob81, consider the Fuji Klasse/Klasse S, or Rollei AFM35 (same camera). I've never noticed much shutter lag, the lens is great, and the metering is really accurate. I'd guess I get a higher percentage of 'keepers' from that camera than any other. I think it's slightly bigger than the Contax T2/T3, but other than that, it's a great camera.

 

[Guest]

I would not purchase the Nikon model because there are no more spare parts, my shutter went bad on me after less than five rolls. I got it back in 2001, last of the few that were left on sale. Sent it back to Nikon in 2005 and they returned it, saying the shutter was bad and they had no spare parts. The bloody thing was a waste of money, it sits in a drawer awaiting the purchase of a doner but I doubt I will bother. I have two Nikon dig cameras and both of the have issues as well, repair cost for both is higher than their value. So three Nikon cameras and three lemons. My Hasselblad and leica stuff has never failed me, electronic cameras do not hold up in my opinion. I have made my last Nikon purchase for sure and by the way, I am 55 and take superb care of all my purchases.

 

[Jani_from_Finland]

Use both a C/T3 and Y/T5D, the T5 as primary "work camera" mainly due to the small finder on-top and T3 as secondary "work/private camera" while working onboard ships.
Both have excellent top-notch lenses and great auto-features and exposure. The T3 has some limited manual features available.
Both is really great cameras.
Shoot last 2 months only with these 2 cameras, only came out about 6-8 rolls of it, but the work enviroment restricts shooting frames a bit.
Also the Rollei AFM 35 is a really great camera, could i find one for reasonable price, i'll take that one over all cameras as p&s.

 

[lytton]

CONTAX T3... still THE ONE!

CONTAX T3... still THE ONE!

CONTAX T3, hands down on all counts. The size and weight alone are deciding factors. Factor in the ability to use filters, a hood, a lens cap, a cable release, and an external full TTL flash... and you have your answer.

Oh, did I mention the Carl Zeiss Sonnar 2.8/35 T* Lens?

 

[Jani_from_Finland]

Good post about the Fuji Klasse S (aka Rollei AFM 35).
http://www.tallentsblog.com/tallent/Fuji_Klasse_S.html

 

[Archiver]

I'm still tempted to get a Klasse, even though I hardly shoot film. It would be more for the fact of having one of the last film compacts Fuji have made. I believe they are still making the Klasse W, but that can't last for long. I've held a Klasse twice, once in Hong Kong and once in Japan, in a Yodobashi Camera in Osaka, and I've been tempted but never pulled the trigger.

I just realized that I have a few Fujis! I have the Fuji F30, legendary pace-setting compact from 2006; the Fuji Natura Black, another unique film camera; and of course the X10 and X100, all of which are very useful cameras.

Having said that, I'd still go with the Contax T3. Mine is just the awesomeness, but I hardly use it. Heck, I'm wondering if the Sony RX1 will produce comparable 'look' in image due to the Sonnar lens and full frame sensor!

 

[David_Manning]

Love my Contax T3, but don't shoot it a lot anymore. I've shifted to the Sony RX100 and still enjoy compact shooting.

Regarding the RX1...I wonder if using a 35/2.8 instead of a 35/2 would've put the body into the same size range as a film T3? If it's covering the same image circle (35mm film/sensor), why not? THAT would've been killer...and I think Anders Petersen would immediately change to digital 🙂

 

[torn]

I was reading something that mentioned the T3 not being able to push film....meaning...you can't set the ISO other than what the film comes as ? Is this a joke? 😱

 

[Rico]

True, you cannot set the ISO as such. However, there are two subterfuges. First, mask the DX contacts on the film cartridge to get ISO 100, or tape an accessory DX label to get your desired ISO. Second, apply an exposure compensation value of ±2 EV in increments of 1/2 or 1/3 which will persist until you change it (even across power cycles).