Coolscan4000/5000 SA-21/30 and uneven frames

[k__43]

It's all here...
for me, scanning 100% of my images at high res only not to re-scan the occasional 1% of good frames doesn't make sense: too slow, and too heavy.
Also, I often clean much more carefully the keepers, and adjust the scan more carefully. I can't do this for all images.
But that's only because I have a low keeper rate, I'm sure the milage of others will vastly vary 😉

well I also use the 30% mediocre frames cos I can't decide which is which 🙁

 

[cabbiinc]

I realize this is a week old thread but thought I'd chime in. I own an LS-2000 with an SA-20 film strip feeder. I'm working with Vuescan (never did get Nikonscan to work). With my experience Vuescan has a setting (Input|Frame Alignment) which finds the division between the first and second frame of a strip then works from the assumption that the rest are relatively where they're supposed to be. This has proven to be somewhat hit and miss if the edge of the frame isn't clearly defined (overexposed negative or underexposed slide). It's also difficult if the first two frames overlap. If the scanner can't find the frame spacing it just stops and the SA-20 needs to be removed and reinserted, sometimes the film removed before reinserting (which neither hurts the film or is difficult). I should pull out some old film from my Mercury II to see how it deals with it.

 

[k__43]

I realize this is a week old thread but thought I'd chime in. I own an LS-2000 with an SA-20 film strip feeder. I'm working with Vuescan (never did get Nikonscan to work). With my experience Vuescan has a setting (Input|Frame Alignment) which finds the division between the first and second frame of a strip then works from the assumption that the rest are relatively where they're supposed to be. This has proven to be somewhat hit and miss if the edge of the frame isn't clearly defined (overexposed negative or underexposed slide). It's also difficult if the first two frames overlap. If the scanner can't find the frame spacing it just stops and the SA-20 needs to be removed and reinserted, sometimes the film removed before reinserting (which neither hurts the film or is difficult). I should pull out some old film from my Mercury II to see how it deals with it.

Thanks for that info. You don't have to trouble yourself, sounds like something I expected.
I'll try to score a cheap Coolscan V ED or maybe a 8000 when the price is right (in the moment it isn't for me)

 

[k__43]

So, I've just bought a Canon FS4000US no Nikon. I'd still prefer a Nikon but the Canon was just cheaper.
I hope it is not too slow but as I said previously the main time that is interesting to me is the time I have to operate that thing. I care less about the minutes it takes to process the task.

I hope that the unit I got is ok and post results asap (Epson V500 vs. plustek 8200 vs. FS4000US)

 

[cabbiinc]

With the Canon, make sure that it's not squeezing the images. That seems to be somewhat common. Also make sure that it has both the negative film holder and the slides film holder. If you shoot APS film there's an adapter for that as well, but mine was in mint condition as I don't shoot APS nor do I know anyone who does.

Aside from that it's USB 1.1 or SCSI. The SCSI interface is faster, but not worlds faster. If you already have an SCSI card in your computer it's worth hooking up. If you have to move heaven and earth it's just not worth the marginal speed increase.