copex rapid and cms 20ii developer question

[J enea]

I have been using and still use rollei retro 80s for landscapes in both 35mm and 120. I love the fine grain, high level of detail, sharpness and tonality I get. I develop it in Beutler after testing a few different developers. took me about 15 rolls to get it down and now I'm all set. So enter my friend....

he has seen many of my prints and yes he agrees with me. Then says why don't you try copex rapid and cms 20ii and then gives me 2 rolls of each in 35mm to try. Great! but now what?

With 2 rolls of each I don't have the ability to test them in full. and not having the "dedicated" developers for them could impact the results as it seems they are very much developer dependent to get full tonal scale. I would love to give them a try to see if I should get a few more rolls, even though they cost much more than rollei retro 80s ( I buy in bulk rolls from maco at about $40 each).

I have pretty much all the raw chems to make many of developers myself (I love playing mad scientist/chemist) and would like to mix something up that would work with the 2 films. Any ideas or thoughts would be very helpful. also, if you have times, temps and EI to shoot the films at that would be great.

thanks

john

 

[Fotohuis]

I develop it in Beutler after testing a few different developers.

I also tried TDLC-103 in fact a Beutler where the Sodiumcarbonate has been swapped for Sodiumbicarbonate which works as low contrast type developer.

However tests on ATP1.1 (Rollei) or CMS20 (Adox) were not that good with TDLC-103. Acceptable I would say but normally I have a pretty high developing standard.
But you can try yourself. Times approx. the same comparing to Beutler A+B.

 

[HHPhoto]

Do yourself a favour and don't waste time and money on mixing chemicals for these films yourself.
Just buy some more films and the dedicated developers (Spur Dokuspeed SL for Agfa Copex Rapid and Adox Adotech II for Adox CMS 20 II) and be happy.
The results with the dedicated developers are outstanding.
And it is the best solution concerning price-performance.

Mixing yourself = time consuming = high costs = big frustration, because the results are not satisfying.

Cheers, Jan

 

[J enea]

thanks.

Jan, doesn't look like i can get the Spur Dokuspeed in the us, freestyle does not have it and fotoimpex wont ship liquids. any other developers that i could maybe get at freestyle instead? they do have spur modular UR

 

[HHPhoto]

AFAIK you can order directly at SPUR:
http://spur-photo.com/some-information-in-english/

Otherwise, yes Modular UR New is the forerunner of Dokuspeed SL. So it can be used.
But Dokuspeed is even better.

Looks like Freestyle sucks again. Give them "a kick in the ass" that they finally offer the films and dedicated developers like Dokuspeed and Adotech II.

Probably it is also good to inform both Fotoimpex and SPUR that there are availability problems in the US.

Cheers, Jan

 

[J enea]

they have adotech II so thats not an issue. I order a lot of things from them. Sorry you think they suck, but sometimes they are the only option, so I happy when they do have hard to find things as they are usually the only one as BH will not ship liquids.

 

[Fotohuis]

You can try Photoformulary in the USA too, but I think you already know them.
SPUR is in Europe the specialist in high resolution micro film chemicals. And indeed often problems to get these special things oversea.

 

[tho60]

Do yourself a favour and don't waste time and money on mixing chemicals for these films yourself.
Just buy some more films and the dedicated developers (Spur Dokuspeed SL for Agfa Copex Rapid and Adox Adotech II for Adox CMS 20 II) and be happy.
The results with the dedicated developers are outstanding.
And it is the best solution concerning price-performance.

Mixing yourself = time consuming = high costs = big frustration, because the results are not satisfying.

Cheers, Jan

I like your posts, but in this case I only partly agree. Now I mix myself my chemicals (developers and fixers) and a whole new world has opened to me. I brew the chemical I want, I can try on many formulae and even modify them. In general, the costs are favorable. However, you are right that some dedicated developers cannot be mixed at home and there is no point trying this.

 

[J enea]

OK, I got the adotech II developer and plan to make a day trip to Yosemite to give the film a try. I read the fact sheet on the developer and was wondering why this section (cleaning the tank) is stated twice in different wording, and then why only do 1 roll at a time. Clearly there is something in the developer Im not familiar with and would just like to become better educated.

Thouroughly clean your tanks after each use. We recomend a separate clean
tank just for the Adotech procedure. Do not only rinse your tank. Clean it with
a brush or a spounge thouroughly after washing and wipe it dry with a paper
towel before developing a new film.

and then again...
In order to keep this protection we recomend
developing only one film at a time in a tank. Clean your tanks thoroughly before
use to wash out all fixer. Ideally use a separate tank just for ADOTECH.

Thanks. I hoping that this film is as good as others claim. would be nice to use in 120 so i dont have to go to 4x5 to get 32x40 inch prints

 

[ashfaque]

Hi Enea,

Could you please share your Rollei Retro 80s + Beutler methods and some examples. I'd love to try something other than Rodinal that is easily accessible.

Regarding CMS 20 II and Copex Rapid: I made some notes for my own use, largely for CMS 20 II. Please note that, I haven't used any CMS 20 II yet. My plan is to make 2 18 exposures rolls from each, and develop with different developer and then see which one's output I like better.

Bests,

Ashfaque

 

[J enea]

RR80s, no secrets. found the times by searching here, APUG and massive development chart. I shoot at 80 develop in beutler 1+1+8 for 9 min and for RR400s/superpan 200 I shoot t 160 develop for 1+1+10 for 9 to 9:30 depending on the scene contrast. here are a few examples. first 2 are RR80 and the third is 400s

Sorry for only 1 pict showing up. I have never been able to get pictures posted the right way on this forum, hence the reason I shoot film

John

bixby bridge by John Enea, on Flickr

[/URL]russian ridge park by John Enea, on Flickr[/IMG]

[/URL]montebello ridge by John Enea, on Flickr[/IMG]