Crown Graphic Lens Choices

[Jesse3Names]

there is an eBay seller named Heavystar who sells new 4x5 Crown lensboards for about $16.00.

There are two types of Pacemaker Graphic lens boards I found: one with small raised bumps on opposing sides and one with both those small raise bumps and slightly rectangular-shaped raised bumps on the other sides as well. The one with two sets of bumps is labeled as a Super Graphic lens board here. Can the Crown Graphic use both of these styles and in what orientation does it go into the front standard? Also, is it a simple DIY operation to mount a lens with shutter (like the one I'm getting from eBay) to a lens board? I think they just screw on, but I'm not positive.

Someone locally has a Schneider-Kreuznach Angulon 90mm f/6.8 available that's in impeccable shape. The Synchro-Compur shutter it has sounds like it's accurate (hasn't been measured), but the lever used to select aperture or shutter speed, I can't remember which, will not go all the way over to either the smallest aperture or fastest shutter speed. It seems to work fine, just that one little thing. I don't know how to work on it, but it seems like a good option if this G. Leitmeyr Munchen Weitwinkel Anastigmat 90mm f/6.8 ends up being too bent out of shape to be worth paying for a CLA.

 

[maddoc]

I use a L-sized changing bag for both, loading my Grafmatik sheet-film holder and also loading the Patterson 3-reel tank/MOD54 combination. Both tasks are quite easy to manage except under really humid and hot conditions when sweating is not avoidable.

One comment about the MOD54 inset, the tank has to be inverted very carefully and slowly otherwise at least one or two sheets will partially come loose inside the tank. The forces generated by the fluid flow inside the tank easily push the sheets out of the MOD54 holder.

The Paterson 3-reel tank with MOD54 insert (here) processes 6 sheets of 4x5 like the Jobo 2521 w/ 2509 reel, but at a lower cost. How do you think loading either would compare in a loose changing bag? I don't have a changing tent and plan to wait as long as necessary before buying one - they're rather expensive. A video on the MOD54 website says gentle inversion (more of a slow, rotating roll of the tank) works well with that tank. I'd prefer not to use trays, as I can't guarantee that with my current income level I'll be able to afford an apartment with a windowless bathroom (thinking of moving to Seattle next year). I'm a fan of daylight development tanks with 35mm film, so I figure that as long as I can load the 4x5 film properly (with patience, dummy film, and much practice), it should work well.

Kodak recommends developing T-MAX 100 sheet film in rotary tanks with XTOL at 1:1 dilution for 9 3/4 min. Do you think that's long enough to use with a sheet film rotary tank with inversion? There's no time that Kodak themselves recommend that is >10 min, of course they don't recommend a dilution weaker than 1:1 for XTOL.

 

[leighmarrin]

Hi, Jesse: will try to answer your questions--a Super Graphic lensboard should work fine on a Crown.

LF shutters typically have a skinny retaining ring; you make a hole just slightly larger than the threads, and the retaining ring acts as a nut.

Regarding the Synchro-Compur shutter you examined locally, be aware that the highest 1/500th setting should be set BEFORE the shutter is cocked. Moving the selector to the highest setting will always be much stiffer than the other settings--wonder if this is the problem you encountered?

If you decide to buy this particular 90mm Angulon, you might want to do a little research. From what I've read, the quality control on earlier versions was not as good as the later Angulons. Check out this article by Kerry Thalman:http://www.thalmann.com/largeformat/wide.htm

I've never seen a MOD54 adapter, so I can't compare it to the Jobo. But I've read some good reviews of it.

I can't answer your question about Xtol--I mostly use Kodak HC-110 developer, but NOT according to Kodak's instructions. I use the "unoffical" dillution H, which gives longer development times, and is very economical. Check out:http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/

Lastly, have you checked out Large Format Forum? There's a very useful FAQ there.
http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/index.php

 

[leighmarrin]

Here's a link to an excellent page on the Compur shutter. If your future shutter is a Synchro-Compur -P version, it will not have a "T" setting and the article will tell you how to hold the shutter open without the hassle of having to use a locked cable release with the "B" setting. http://www.skgrimes.com/library/used-obsolete-discontinued-shutters/compur

 

[Jesse3Names]

Regarding the Synchro-Compur shutter you examined locally, be aware that the highest 1/500th setting should be set BEFORE the shutter is cocked. Moving the selector to the highest setting will always be much stiffer than the other settings--wonder if this is the problem you encountered?

If you decide to buy this particular 90mm Angulon, you might want to do a little research. From what I've read, the quality control on earlier versions was not as good as the later Angulons. Check out this article by Kerry Thalman:http://www.thalmann.com/largeformat/wide.htm

From that link it looks like this local lens was made in the early '50s (312**** partial serial number) and it appears that all of the years were fitted with a Compur 0 shutter. It's mounted to a Linhof Technika III lens board currently, but I don't think that would fit a Crown at all. Fortunately an eBayer has #0 lens boards pre-cut for the Crown and available for ~$20 after shipping.

I know we cocked the shutter yesterday, but I don't remember if it was before or after selecting the shutter speed. That might be the reason, though! I am going back to pick up 11 Lisco Regal II film holders for $3/ea., all in fantastic condition, probably today. I'll double check that when I do.

He also has a Pentax Spotmeter V and a small army of spare batteries (more than a lifetime supply for an avid photographer, I would guess... seriously). So, I may get the Spotmeter as well, not sure just yet. I currently meter for 35mm film with my Canon G15 point and shoot camera. I did the math and if you zoom into 5x (turn off digital zoom) and spot meter, you effectively meter over a ~2.5 degree field of view. I chose the G15 because the +/- 3 stop dial lets you meter at f/11, f/16, or f/22. So if I shoot at f/22 on 4x5 I can set the G15 dial to -3 stops and take the direct reading. Any more and I have to do some math, but that's not too bad. The Spotmeter V would be nice because I believe it's a 1 degree spot and it likely works better in lower light than my G15 sensor can probably manage - this may be worth some controlled comparison readings. Obviously the G15 is adequate for the very forgiving b&w negative 35mm film (what I will shoot mostly because I can develop it myself), but I have no experience metering for 4x5 with it. What's the forum opinion of this combination of meters?

 

[Corran]

That might be a can of worms.

In my opinion, "metering" with any digital camera is folly. The ISO setting may not actually be the ISO that would correspond to your film. The Spotmeter V is simply a fantastic meter so seriously just get it, if it's around $100.

 

[leighmarrin]

Jesse, assuming those holders are light-tight, that's a great price for them.

Regarding the 90mm/f6.8 Angulon, I looked again on Internet, and you are right--appears not to have been offered in the #00 Synchro-Compur, only the #0 Synchro-Compur and Prontor shutters. (I've got the first version of the 90mm/f8 SUPER-Angulon in a #00 shutter, and it is too tiny--quite awkward to use in the recessed lensboard required for my view camera.)

Regarding your question about exposing B&W films on large format, Kodak TMAX and Ilford FP4 and HP5 are identical to the emulsions in smaller formats. However, the LF version of Kodak Tri-X is a different film than its 35mm namesake.

Light meters... well, I do a lot of "Sunny f16", or rely on an elderly Weston selenium meter. No rational reason, except I live to use vintage gear.

 

[Jesse3Names]

Jesse, assuming those holders are light-tight, that's a great price for them.

Regarding the 90mm Angulon, I looked again on Internet, and you are right--appears not to have been offered in the #00 Synchro-Compur, only the #0 Synchro-Compur and Prontor shutters.

Regarding your question about exposing B&W films on large format, Kodak TMAX and Ilford FP5 and HP5 are identical to the emulsions in smaller formats. However, the LF version of Kodak Tri-X is a different film than its 35mm namesake.

Light meters... well, I do a lot of "Sunny f16" , or rely on an elderly Weston selenium meter. No rational reason, except I live to use vintage gear.

Turns out the Pentax Spotmeter V is NOT for sale. It was a gift from his wife and it isn't available because of that - understandable. Maybe I'll pick one up from KEH if I decide the G15 point-and-shoot camera isn't adequate. Seems to be doing ok for 35mm film though.

The same guy sold me a sealed, frozen box of Velvia 100 (10 sheets) for $25 (20 sheet boxes sell for $76 at B&H) and some remaining frozen Astia 100, Portra 160, and T-MAX 400 sheet films for $4... I'm not kidding and that's not a typo.

His friend left a Linhof Technika III at his house 3 years ago and hasn't been back to pick it up since, so we were playing around with it. It definitely needs a CLA - some features aren't exactly smooth operators, but most of the features are manageable. He's giving his friend a call to ask if it's for sale. Maybe I can get a good deal on it - I really do like the 360 degree rotating back - it lets you have all the movements I need if you're clever about it. Of course, if he asks what the Technika IIIs are worth, I'll have to politely decline. My original plan is still to pick up a $190-ish (after shipping) Crown Graphic.

 

[graywolf]

I kind of missed this because I was in the hospital back then, so probably too late for the OP.

If you want forward tilt on your Crown Graphic simply mount the camera upside down on the tripod. Then you not only have forward tilt, but also a lens shade to block skylight from the lens surface.