Godfrey
somewhat colored
Thanks, j j.
I'll definitely try to curling the opposite way method next time. My goal is to get the absolute sharpest scan I could get with the Epson V500.
I cut home-processed 35mm into strips of 5 and fit into negative pages. Then sit a couple of heavy books on top of the negative pages. Usually by the time I want to scan, the negatives are permanently flattened...
G
fonzy
Newbie
Where I live the air is quite dry, so I've had a lot of problems with curling negs even with ilford films (though they're not as bad as tri-x).
What I do is cut the negs after they're dry and put them in print-file pages, and then roll the page along it's width, emulsion side out, into a tube. I use some masking tape to secure it like that, and leave it for few days. I've found it works way better than books. Also, there's much less chance of scratching the negs than if you rolled the whole uncut roll backwards.
I used to use elastics to hold the sleeves in the tube shape, but found that they wrinkled the negatives a bit, especially for 120. Not recommended..
What I do is cut the negs after they're dry and put them in print-file pages, and then roll the page along it's width, emulsion side out, into a tube. I use some masking tape to secure it like that, and leave it for few days. I've found it works way better than books. Also, there's much less chance of scratching the negs than if you rolled the whole uncut roll backwards.
I used to use elastics to hold the sleeves in the tube shape, but found that they wrinkled the negatives a bit, especially for 120. Not recommended..
Ronald M
Veteran
I had 8 rolls of Tri-X developed recently and they all curled too. Since I was going for another week abroad, I took two heavy magazines (one of those 500 page ones that came as junk mail in my post box) and just leave all 8 rolls for a week under the heavy load. I must say I'm impressed with the result. It still has some curl to it, but is flat enough for me to easily insert into my scanner film holder without springing out.
Yes. works like a charm
So does plain old time, but who can wait.
After fully dry, repeat fully, wind into a 3" dia roll emulsion out. Wait 24/48 hours. Do not let the ends scratch and do not cinch or you get friction scratches.
Clothes pins on the sprocket area only hold the reverse curl.
huddy
Well-known
I cut my dried negatives and put them in print-file pages to combat width-wise curling. After a few days, the issue is usually resolved well enough. Scanning on humid days also tends to help flatten the film.
Lastly, I now shoot predominantly HP5+ instead of Tri-X
Lastly, I now shoot predominantly HP5+ instead of Tri-X
whitecat
Lone Range(find)er
I always reverse curl and put them in the clear cassettes for about 24 hrs. They are then pretty flat but I use the Better Scanning glass and get some great scans.
emayoh
Established
When I run into troublesome negs that I need to scan in a hurry, I pop them into sleeves and then curl the sleeves around a cardboard tube in whatever way opposes the offending curl. This, done anywhere from a few minutes to a few hours, can give you something scannable relatively quickly.

how i uncurl my negatives by Redfishingboat (Mick O), on Flickr

how i uncurl my negatives by Redfishingboat (Mick O), on Flickr
Laviolette
Established
Agree on the Ilford films drying flat.
I can't say the same thing about Neopan 400, which I have to leave under heavy books for a week before scanning it.
I can't say the same thing about Neopan 400, which I have to leave under heavy books for a week before scanning it.
sepiareverb
genius and moron
Hardeners in Fixer can encourage curling. I use half the hardener additive to my Sprint film fix. Many say no hardener is needed with modern films.
sjgslack
Established
I know somebody mentioned here that it is nothing to do with washing, BUT I have done some experimentation and and found that it almost certainly is.
I used to wash for around 5 mins in running cold water. My negatives curled horribly.
Now what I do is the following:
1. Wash in running cold water for 5 mins.
2. Fill the tank with warm(ish) water and put the film back in. Leave it to soak for 5 mins, then empty it
3. Repeat the above until you can no longer see the colour of the film emulsion in the water and the film has gone black/grey
4. Now hang it to dry - huge improvement!
I used to wash for around 5 mins in running cold water. My negatives curled horribly.
Now what I do is the following:
1. Wash in running cold water for 5 mins.
2. Fill the tank with warm(ish) water and put the film back in. Leave it to soak for 5 mins, then empty it
3. Repeat the above until you can no longer see the colour of the film emulsion in the water and the film has gone black/grey
4. Now hang it to dry - huge improvement!
mathiasprinz
Established
adding to the things that have been said: i have the feeling that the negatives developed in my smaller tanks curl a lot more than the ones that i develop in my jobo 2500s. my 10 recent rolls of tri-x (i love everything about tri-x but the curl) were all developed in the big jobos and they came out flatter than usual.
Dana B.
Well-known
I know somebody mentioned here that it is nothing to do with washing, BUT I have done some experimentation and and found that it almost certainly is.
I used to wash for around 5 mins in running cold water. My negatives curled horribly.
Now what I do is the following:
1. Wash in running cold water for 5 mins.
2. Fill the tank with warm(ish) water and put the film back in. Leave it to soak for 5 mins, then empty it
3. Repeat the above until you can no longer see the colour of the film emulsion in the water and the film has gone black/grey
4. Now hang it to dry - huge improvement!
I'd be worried about my film not being fixed properly. As it is, I rinse for 20 mins.
DNG
Film Friendly
My Workfkow for Tri-X and TMAX 400
My Workfkow for Tri-X and TMAX 400
I know the techies with say that there is a very slight OOF effect with the scan. Well. for images that are from a FLAT COPY Macro negatives, that may be valid, but I don't see it in 3D photos (IE: photos taken in our surroundings, like Street Photography, or Studio Portraits, or Landscape)
My Workfkow for Tri-X and TMAX 400
- I pre-soak about 2min
- Develop per my ISO Previous ISO test time/temp
- Water Wash 3m
- Fix with a Kodafix with Harder for 6m as a 1 shot
- Wash for 20m (I get 4 changes of filtered water per minute)
- Photo-Flo 1m (a few drops in 300ml)
- Dry in a bathroom that has a Hot Shower running for 10m, I turn off the water 3m before I the Wash/Photo-flo is done
- I hang on the Curtain Rod with a weighted bottom clip
- I let dry for 30m then use a Hairdryer on MED heat about 18-24 inches away, reversing sides about every minute. OR let dry on it it's own if I have the time.
- I take my FLAT/DRY neg roll to my Lightbox and cut it in 6x strips, and sleeve in a Neg page.
- I then Take each strip and apply a quick Edwal Film Cleaner swipe on both side
- I then place Emulsion side up, and from Right>Left in my V700 35mm film holder, lock tops in place.
- Use a "Canned Air" on each side,
- Scan them..
- There is a very very slight curl, maybe a 1/8" Center to edge difference.....BUT, the DOF of the scanner is enough to scan each negative w/o OOF edges!
I know the techies with say that there is a very slight OOF effect with the scan. Well. for images that are from a FLAT COPY Macro negatives, that may be valid, but I don't see it in 3D photos (IE: photos taken in our surroundings, like Street Photography, or Studio Portraits, or Landscape)
mathiasprinz
Established
… adding to the things that have been said: i´ve got the feeling that the 35mm that i develop in my big jobo tanks (2500 series) come out flatter than the ones i develop in smaller tanks. i just developed ten rolls of tri-x in the big tanks and they are rather flat - for tri-x.
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