Current Rolleiflex CLA Cost?

Well my 3.5F has been to both coasts as well as the midwest now.
I called Krikor, and he had parts to fix the meter. He was done within a day of the camera arriving in NJ. Upon arrival, I checked it with my Gossen Luna Pro F which I know is accurate. Perfection!

Had I known, I would have gone to Krikor the first time around.

BTW - price for new selenium cell and meter movement plus installation and calibration was $250.

Hi Robert,
In my case, the Midwest worked out great. Thank you.
Subhash
 
Just got a call from Krikor ....my film wind is messed,shutter is messed and a couple of other issues....$350.00 repair quote...on my 2.8 E2...it's been down for 15 years ...time to get her going...I have a project in mind and need that camera...well worth it to me as a broken camera has no value unless it's for parts.Regards,Bill
 
I paid only 70 euros this week to a complete overhaul ;-) Now it works like a clock !
Great, I would be interested to hear about the place and technician, because I have a 2.8C lying somewhere that could use a CLA :) I prefer to have it done in Europe.
 
I'm still trying to figure out who's best to send a broken MX-EVS to. It seems that Harry has the most tools/parts(?) Or can Krikor fix anything Rolleiflex? Not just CLA.
 
I'm still trying to figure out who's best to send a broken MX-EVS to. It seems that Harry has the most tools/parts(?) Or can Krikor fix anything Rolleiflex? Not just CLA.

Krikor has worked on two of my MX-EVSs, a Xenar and a Tessar, which I sold recently. Krikor seems to be $350 no matter what. I've never heard of a lower price from him. Anyway, I would also like to recommend Mark Hanson. He's done great work on my Primo.

Rolleis seem very hot now thanks to Vivian Maier. A young fellow at my Camera Club recently offered me a ridiculous amount of money for my 2.8F Planar. I was tempted, but know I would never be able to get another in the condition mine's in. I only have the MX-EVS Xenar and the 2.8F, but use them practically every day.
 
Is a man that is not connected to internet, still writes with fountain pens and wears mechanic watches, so I think you must go there :) You can take advantage and have some holidays in Porto ;-)
Anyway the address is below or link to Google Maps.
Is a old man that knows every camera inside in and out. And if there isn't a component made anymore, he does it on his machines ! Unbelievable...

Manuel Adriano Silva
Rua de Coutinho de Azevedo 64
4000-187 Porto
Portugal

Great, I would be interested to hear about the place and technician, because I have a 2.8C lying somewhere that could use a CLA :) I prefer to have it done in Europe.
 
A vote for Fred

A vote for Fred

I had my (father's) MX-EVS overhauled (both shutter and transport) by Fred at International Camera Tech (ictcamera.com) in Mountain View, CA about 2 years ago, after it sat for ~20 years. $350, and he also re-dyed the worn leatherette, and apologized that it would take so long, because he had a backlog.

He's got some pricing on his website, and always some interesting stuff for sale in the cases in the shop - and I recommend him without reservation.

I'd feared I payed a silly valley tax, but it appears that his pricing is in line with other "trained by Rollei" folks, even if he's not so famous.
 
My Rollei 2.8 E model just arrived back from Krikor Maralian (Krimar Photo Shop) and from the looks of the invoice and what was repaired and replaced I'd say very good value for the money spent.Best of all it arrived in plenty of time to use on my upcoming road trip.Thank you Krikor. Regards,Bill
 
Harry Fleenor told me he will assess my 3.5F when I shipped it out to him. Does anyone know if he give estimated quotations or he will based on current condition when received? Is Krikor faster than Fleenor in terms of a CLA overhaul and service charges-wise?

I sent out my overly modified automat to Mark Hansen. His quote is as follows:

For a Shutter CLA you are looking at 90-120 dollars, with the the above. Film transport is 120 dollars, New mirror is 20.


For Mark Hansen's CLA on my automat: Total bill + shipping came up to USD155.

It has been shipped and will update once I receive it :)
 
I have a questions regarding an 2.8C I've purchased but not yet received, where in Europe could I send the camera when it arrives, and did anyone ever do a re-coating of the taking lens ?
The camera is perfect just has a few cleaning marks on the taking lens which I'd rather not look at daily, Its nothing much but i am a damned perfectionist when gear is in question.

TiA
 
I have a questions regarding an 2.8C I've purchased but not yet received, where in Europe could I send the camera when it arrives, and did anyone ever do a re-coating of the taking lens ?
The camera is perfect just has a few cleaning marks on the taking lens which I'd rather not look at daily, Its nothing much but i am a damned perfectionist when gear is in question.

TiA
Honestly, if the damage is not severe, leave it as is. In order to re-coat the lens, the old coating first has to be polished off. I don't pretend to have enough experience or expertise about this to offer any opinions with authority, but I have certainly read that this process can potentially affect the profile of the front lens element which, of course, means it might impact on sharpness across the frame. I am sure there must be firms such as the well-regarded Focal Point who can perform this with satisfactory results that do not compromise optical performance, however there is always a small risk the glass will fracture in the process. I have previously discussed this exact point with my local optical manufacturer and repairer on whose advice my remarks are based.

I have a 2.8D here that will most likely need this treatment when I get around to it, but it has quite bad coating deterioration, including what looks like a fingerprint etched into the coating (I assume the result of etching by skin acids over an extended period, as I can't imagine how else this could have occurred). The lens is a Xenotar, of course.

Is the lens of your 2.8C a Xenotar or Planar? I'm guessing Xenotar, these are infamous for coating defects as they have aged. Both lenses were available in the 2.8C though. The Xenotar has a front cell that is a single piece of glass. As I have researched myself, I understand that the 2.8 Planars are a bonded front pair making polishing and re-coating more complex.

The bottom line is if the marks are minor as you say there is little to gain and much, potentially, to lose by attempting repair. Image quality will not be improved, whether vanity alone is worth the expense and risk is for you to decide, ultimately...
Regards,
Brett
 
Honestly, if the damage is not severe, leave it as is. In order to re-coat the lens, the old coating first has to be polished off. I don't pretend to have enough experience or expertise about this to offer any opinions with authority, but I have certainly read that this process can potentially affect the profile of the front lens element which, of course, means it might impact on sharpness across the frame. I am sure there must be firms such as the well-regarded Focal Point who can perform this with satisfactory results that do not compromise optical performance, however there is always a small risk the glass will fracture in the process. I have previously discussed this exact point with my local optical manufacturer and repairer on whose advice my remarks are based.

I have a 2.8D here that will most likely need this treatment when I get around to it, but it has quite bad coating deterioration, including what looks like a fingerprint etched into the coating (I assume the result of etching by skin acids over an extended period, as I can't imagine how else this could have occurred). The lens is a Xenotar, of course.

Is the lens of your 2.8C a Xenotar or Planar? I'm guessing Xenotar, these are infamous for coating defects as they have aged. Both lenses were available in the 2.8C though. The Xenotar has a front cell that is a single piece of glass. As I have researched myself, I understand that the 2.8 Planars are a bonded front pair making polishing and re-coating more complex.

The bottom line is if the marks are minor as you say there is little to gain and much, potentially, to lose by attempting repair. Image quality will not be improved, whether vanity alone is worth the expense and risk is for you to decide, ultimately...
Regards,
Brett

So a nice Rollei Hood is next on the to buy list :D. Thank you for your input, i couldn't remember the name of the firm that do recoating...
But yup you are right, the moment you start polishing off the lens glass itself and not the coating you are interfering with the lens formula and changing its optical performance.
 
So a nice Rollei Hood is next on the to buy list :D. Thank you for your input, i couldn't remember the name of the firm that do recoating...
But yup you are right, the moment you start polishing off the lens glass itself and not the coating you are interfering with the lens formula and changing its optical performance.
Right, I have also heard lens elements are heated to 200 degrees, and there is some risk of lens cracking. I believe Will van Manen in Netherlands also does recoating as was stated on this forum.
 
Another thumbs up for Krikor.
I would have sent mine to Krikor too and many weeks ago I sent him an email asking if I could send him my recently acquired E3 for a checkup. I got a form bounce back from his address promising a reply but I never heard back from him. Then I read some rather uncomplimentary things on APUG and decided to send it to Essex Camera as reported above in post #65.

It took exactly 5 weeks to come back but they've done a beautiful job with it. It's not the first time I've used Essex so I'm not really surprised at the quality of the work but they clearly took note of my comments and acted on them. Essex is not a famous name like Fleenor or Maralian but they are very competent (and apparently have a good supply of spare parts). I had no qualms about sending my new-looking E3 to them and I'm very happy with the results. The cost was $170 including return shipping.
 
Back
Top Bottom