GeneW
Veteran
I have a small exhibit coming up in May and need to purchase some mat cutting tools. Some of the local art stores have Logan trimmers (I haven't checked the available models yet).
What do you recommend? Brand? Model? Where to get replacement blades? etc.
Any advice appreciated. Or, if you have a good spare mat cutter you'd like to sell, please PM me with a price and description.
Thanks,
Gene
What do you recommend? Brand? Model? Where to get replacement blades? etc.
Any advice appreciated. Or, if you have a good spare mat cutter you'd like to sell, please PM me with a price and description.
Thanks,
Gene
DCourter
Member
I use a Logan 450 - works great. I get the blades & other supplies either at an art supply store , or the on-line retailer - http://www.lightimpressionsdirect.com/servlet/OnlineShopping
aterlecki
Established
What you use probably depends on how fussy you are with the quality of the mat cuts. If you are very fussy (like me) then you may find that the cheaper solutions are not up to the task. I went through two different cheaper solutions before splashing out on a more expensive Fletcher model.
The cheaper Fletcher Matmate may be suitable for your needs. I like using production stops (which the Matmate also has) as they eliminate guesswork on where to start and stop the cut. This, in turn, dramatically reduces wastage you might otherwise have had because of overcuts and undercuts.
Whatever you choose buy lots of blades and change regularly (sometimes after each mat depending on size). Blades are cheap compared to a ruined piece of matboard.
The cheaper Fletcher Matmate may be suitable for your needs. I like using production stops (which the Matmate also has) as they eliminate guesswork on where to start and stop the cut. This, in turn, dramatically reduces wastage you might otherwise have had because of overcuts and undercuts.
Whatever you choose buy lots of blades and change regularly (sometimes after each mat depending on size). Blades are cheap compared to a ruined piece of matboard.
RayPA
Ignore It (It'll go away)
When I was a student, I used to use a Dexter (I think it was called). It's a small stainless steel handheld model. It was a PITA. If I needed mats now, I think I'e either invest in a nicer more professional model, or have them cut by a shop.
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X
xcapekey
Guest
your choices are either handheld cutter and straight edge (can be had for round $50) or get a proper cutter with a board , squaring arm, folding rail, etc., these can get pricey....
i lucked out and bought a Logan 720 Simplex for $150 (usually go for $300)...it's a great cutter that I'd highly recommend...I've just started showing a lot and being able to cut my own mats is a great help...if you send out all your mats to be cut, you have to know all the dimensions you'll need cut way ahead of time...by cutting it myself, I could wait until the last week to decide if I wanted to add a panoramic shot, or a squre one shot with my holga, etc.,
here are a few general tips that I learned:
-buy a lot of blades .... plunk down the money and get a 100 pack of blades...you should only use 1 blade per mat
-always have scrap piece of mat beneath the mat your cutting...if your blade hits the table, it will dull it and cause it to swerve...that said, every time you make a cut, move your undermat just a smidgen so your next cut doesnt get in the groove
-to determine proper blade depth, the blade should cut through the mat your cutting and just barely score the undermat...you adjust blade depth with a screw on the blade holder
-buy alphrag or rag mat board...a little more expensive but worth it...if you have overcuts, you can hide them by using a plastic spoon (or whats called a burnishing tool) to gently smooth and heal it over....if you have marks or dust on the mat, you can usually get rid of them with a white eraser....if you have dent that isn't too bad, you can usually raise it up by using a qtip and a little dab of water to have the fibers expand...
-measure twice and cut once
-apply even pressure and speed in the cut...when u first click the blade through the mat, it has a tendency to jump, be firm with the blade holder (the 720 holder has a neat little pin that tacks into the mat so when you push the blade in it doesn't budge...)
- when you've cut the window, don't pop out the middle piece of mat, that leads to burrs and rough corners....slowly turn over the mat, holding the middle piece in place....with the mat turned over...gently guide a used blade along the sides and into the corners....cutting whatever is holding the corners together....
whew...it's an art in of itself....go to an art supply store where people know what they're doing and ask someone to show you the above techniques
it ultimately depends on how much mat you think you'll cut in a year...if you plan to exhibit or sell matted prints, then go for something like the 720 Simplex
hope this helps
i lucked out and bought a Logan 720 Simplex for $150 (usually go for $300)...it's a great cutter that I'd highly recommend...I've just started showing a lot and being able to cut my own mats is a great help...if you send out all your mats to be cut, you have to know all the dimensions you'll need cut way ahead of time...by cutting it myself, I could wait until the last week to decide if I wanted to add a panoramic shot, or a squre one shot with my holga, etc.,
here are a few general tips that I learned:
-buy a lot of blades .... plunk down the money and get a 100 pack of blades...you should only use 1 blade per mat
-always have scrap piece of mat beneath the mat your cutting...if your blade hits the table, it will dull it and cause it to swerve...that said, every time you make a cut, move your undermat just a smidgen so your next cut doesnt get in the groove
-to determine proper blade depth, the blade should cut through the mat your cutting and just barely score the undermat...you adjust blade depth with a screw on the blade holder
-buy alphrag or rag mat board...a little more expensive but worth it...if you have overcuts, you can hide them by using a plastic spoon (or whats called a burnishing tool) to gently smooth and heal it over....if you have marks or dust on the mat, you can usually get rid of them with a white eraser....if you have dent that isn't too bad, you can usually raise it up by using a qtip and a little dab of water to have the fibers expand...
-measure twice and cut once
-apply even pressure and speed in the cut...when u first click the blade through the mat, it has a tendency to jump, be firm with the blade holder (the 720 holder has a neat little pin that tacks into the mat so when you push the blade in it doesn't budge...)
- when you've cut the window, don't pop out the middle piece of mat, that leads to burrs and rough corners....slowly turn over the mat, holding the middle piece in place....with the mat turned over...gently guide a used blade along the sides and into the corners....cutting whatever is holding the corners together....
whew...it's an art in of itself....go to an art supply store where people know what they're doing and ask someone to show you the above techniques
it ultimately depends on how much mat you think you'll cut in a year...if you plan to exhibit or sell matted prints, then go for something like the 720 Simplex
hope this helps
dcsang
Canadian & Not A Dentist
http://www.currys.com/artistsmaterial/prodinfo.asp?SubcatID=733&catID=5
Logan 301S is what I have Gene.
Seems to do the trick and wasn't totally out of control expensive either.
I've cut mattes up to 16x20 with 4"-5" openings - larger than 4" it takes some fiddling with but overall it's ok imho.
Curry's carries a large stock.
Cheers
Dave
Logan 301S is what I have Gene.
Seems to do the trick and wasn't totally out of control expensive either.
I've cut mattes up to 16x20 with 4"-5" openings - larger than 4" it takes some fiddling with but overall it's ok imho.
Curry's carries a large stock.
Cheers
Dave
GeneW
Veteran
Thanks, everyone, for sharing your knowledge. xcapekey, I think you just gave a seminar! I'm certain I'm not the only one here to appreciate it!
Dave, I'll check out Curry's locally.
Gene
Dave, I'll check out Curry's locally.
Gene
kaiyen
local man of mystery
I use the straight-edge clamp method, which is a PITA but works great. The one thing that it allows me to do is some really big borders. Some of the cutters only allow up to, say, 5" around the window. The squaring edge doesn't go father away from the blade than that. Since mine is just a clamped straight edge, I can set it wherever I want.
Having said that, using an edge and clamps is slower.
allan
Having said that, using an edge and clamps is slower.
allan
X
xcapekey
Guest
kaiyen...yeah...the ruled arm thing on most cutters is limited to 5 or 6 inches...it sucks...when that happens, i just measure with a ruler, remove the measuring thingy that you clamp down and line it up the best i can with the straight edge...works well...just have to be a little more careful...
Jeff_S
Member
I have been very happy with my Alto 4501. Cost is around a $100. The 4505 is about $150 and will cut even larger mats. The mat cutter is precise and very easy to use.
Good luck,
Jeff
Good luck,
Jeff