jljohn
Well-known
I develop using D-76 1:1, and I am using two different Paterson tanks. A three reel and a five reel. Now, I noticed that the D-76 Data Sheet states that each 35mmx36 exposure roll should have at least 8 ounces of undilited D-76 (16 ounces total solution at 1:1). The Data Sheet recommends that if you are trying to develop a single roll in half that amount--8 ounces of total solution (i.e. 4 ounces of D-76)--I should increase development time by 10%. in-between adjustments can be extrapolated. For example, using Kodak's numbers as a baseline, I can calculate that 32 ounces of total 1:1 solution requires a 6.67% bump in development time for three rolls of film.
How many of you adjust your development times accordingly? How many think this level of exactitude is crazy? How many simply follow the small tank times and go with it?
Also, At what point do you switch to the large tank times--5 reels, 8 reels, etc?
Finally, in case it matters, I am developing Tri-X and FP4
Thanks so much!
Jeremy
How many of you adjust your development times accordingly? How many think this level of exactitude is crazy? How many simply follow the small tank times and go with it?
Also, At what point do you switch to the large tank times--5 reels, 8 reels, etc?
Finally, in case it matters, I am developing Tri-X and FP4
Thanks so much!
Jeremy
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jljohn
Well-known
Sorry, one more question? The small tank instructions say to agitate for 5 seconds every 30. I have been doing :10 every minute? Curious what you all do? Thanks,
Jeremy
Jeremy
xwhatsit
Well-known
I can't help you with your above question -- all my tanks are two-reel -- but I'm of the opinion (the *erm* experienced and informed opinion of somebody who's been developing for 9 months or so
) that you should agitate enough to prevent bromide drag and any more is wasted.From what I've read, and what seems to be the case with my negs (although might be the placebo effect), the more agitation you do (and possibly more often?), the more grain you get, and the more your highlights want to blow. I use D-76 1:1 and Microphen stock. Small Paterson tanks and stainless steel tanks. And I do the 10 seconds every minute thing, unless I'm pushing film, in which case I'll do 10 seconds every two minutes or three.
venchka
Veteran
The reason why I went to Xtol and continuous agitation in Jobo tanks after ages with D-76 & small tanks. No worries at all. One sheet or 5 rolls. No worries.
DNG
Film Friendly
I don't pay attention to "min" use amounts...
I have a patterson 2 real, and I do 1 roll at a time. Only so I blow threw too much film in a month. I put a reel in the tank and just filled it with water until the water level was about 1/4-1/2 inch above the reel. And that is total soup I use.... I have my 32oz beaker marked for "1 Roll" and for 1:1, 1:2 and 1:3 dilutions of Xtol...Just fill Xtol to line for whatever dilution I am using, and the balance of water (Charcoal filtered for Xtol)... I think it's 14oz for a single roll. A little wasteful, but, I know I have enough developer to do the job., And if I Push the film, I know I have enough action in the developer for the extended times.
I have a patterson 2 real, and I do 1 roll at a time. Only so I blow threw too much film in a month. I put a reel in the tank and just filled it with water until the water level was about 1/4-1/2 inch above the reel. And that is total soup I use.... I have my 32oz beaker marked for "1 Roll" and for 1:1, 1:2 and 1:3 dilutions of Xtol...Just fill Xtol to line for whatever dilution I am using, and the balance of water (Charcoal filtered for Xtol)... I think it's 14oz for a single roll. A little wasteful, but, I know I have enough developer to do the job., And if I Push the film, I know I have enough action in the developer for the extended times.
Ronald M
Veteran
Been doing 1:1 D76 in single reel stainless tanks for about 3 decades. Obviously no problem.
When going to 1:3 you MUST use a 2 reel tank with ONLY one roll and an empty reel.
4 OZ stock is all you need + 4 oz water.
5/30 agitation is 90% the time of 10/60 for same result.
Definition of large tank is a 1/2 gallon or larger usually used with nitrogen burst agitation and sheet film, however roll film can be developed on reels with a lift rod or basket. A two, three, for four reel 35 mm tank is not considered a large tank and used with the same agitation the times are the same a single tank. Times are longer in a large tank mostly because the D76 is replenished, partially used, and the slower agitation rate of 10 sec per min.
1:1 is a one shot use developer and you do not EVER reuse it.
Store your d76 is small one time use bottles never leaving in partially full. Kodak is wrong if they tell you it can be done. Activity first goes up, then down and times are unpredictable. Change can be seen in days if you experiment.
Establish your own times by printing the negatives. For many reasons charts can be wrong, water quality and type of enlarger and contrast of the enlarging lens to name a few. If you are working with #1 paper/filter, cut the time back. Increase the time if you tend to use high contrast grades.
When going to 1:3 you MUST use a 2 reel tank with ONLY one roll and an empty reel.
4 OZ stock is all you need + 4 oz water.
5/30 agitation is 90% the time of 10/60 for same result.
Definition of large tank is a 1/2 gallon or larger usually used with nitrogen burst agitation and sheet film, however roll film can be developed on reels with a lift rod or basket. A two, three, for four reel 35 mm tank is not considered a large tank and used with the same agitation the times are the same a single tank. Times are longer in a large tank mostly because the D76 is replenished, partially used, and the slower agitation rate of 10 sec per min.
1:1 is a one shot use developer and you do not EVER reuse it.
Store your d76 is small one time use bottles never leaving in partially full. Kodak is wrong if they tell you it can be done. Activity first goes up, then down and times are unpredictable. Change can be seen in days if you experiment.
Establish your own times by printing the negatives. For many reasons charts can be wrong, water quality and type of enlarger and contrast of the enlarging lens to name a few. If you are working with #1 paper/filter, cut the time back. Increase the time if you tend to use high contrast grades.
anitasanger
Well-known
I've done both and some of the times i used less than 8oz d76 in my 1:1 dilution, I had negatives that were underdeveloped. At the time, i didn't realize what had happened. But after seeking advice on this forum, I was informed of Kodak's recommended minimum.
Many, many people disregard this suggestion and have had excellent results. Since I have ended up with 3 lackluster rolls due to underdevelopment, i now stick to the 8oz minimum. It's just a couple more ounces per roll and d76 is relatively cheap here in Oklahoma.
Short answer, just run your own tests and stick with what works for you!
Many, many people disregard this suggestion and have had excellent results. Since I have ended up with 3 lackluster rolls due to underdevelopment, i now stick to the 8oz minimum. It's just a couple more ounces per roll and d76 is relatively cheap here in Oklahoma.
Short answer, just run your own tests and stick with what works for you!