D76 mixed as one-shot concentrate?

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lex

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in my quest to find the developer that works best for my range of work i am tempted to try d76. as the new term is starting, the amount i will be developing is better handles by oneshot mixes that last longer.

can or has anyone made a liquid concentrate of D76 and then dilute for a one shot at the time of development?

i was thinking about mixing a gallon batch with 16 ounces of water instead of 128 then bring he mix back to 1:1...
 
You can't do that, the chemicals in D76 won't dissolve all the way because they'll reach the saturation point (the point where nothing more will dissolve) if you use too litttle water. The formula doesn't support use of a high concentrate, probably because it has 100g/l of Sodium Sulfite. Most of the powder you dissolve will be the sulfite.

D-76 1+1 always has to be used one shot anyway, you cannot reuse it the way you can full-strength D-76. So just mix the whole gallon and dilut before using and throw away.
 
I am a recent convert to D76 and I mix up the whole batch of stock solution, decant into smaller plastic 2 litre containers and I use mostly at 1+1. I am very happy with the end results.
 
@cmedin: i want to be able to keep it longer thru the use of a concentrate and mix only what i need for a one shot...

if the saturation of the solution prevents a concentrate, has anyone tried mixing single devel tank amounts directly from the powder?

i like the idea of small bottles if nothing else will work....
 
You do not want to try and mix some of the powder and get a partial batch; the stuff that makes up the D76 powder is not evenly distributed throughout and you'll end up with a mess on your hands.

If you're concerned about things lasting, look into HC110 single shots or even Diafine if you want to keep things cheap.
 
I mix a gallon at a time and store in a brown Kalt one gallon Data Botle, and store it under my bathroom sink. The last batch started looking ever so slightly dark yellowish as I used the last of it, and that was going on four months after the original mix. (negs turned out fine, FWIW)

It turns dark brown much faster when stored in a one gallon milk jug, FYI :) A clean bleach bottle would probably be fine, however.

If the stuff turns brown, dump it. It will stink, and I wouldn't ignore such an indication of sourness and develop film with it. You have quite a bit of time before that happens, and the powder is so cheap for a gallon I can't see worrying about longevity. If you are really concerned, mix using the one liter package, even if that costs 3/4 the price of the gallon mix. I figure I get 22 or so rolls out of one gallon ff D-76, used 1+1 one-shot.

IMHO, if you want to keep it longer for whatever reason, mix the whole gallon, then separate into a few glass bottles filled to overflowing before capping air-tight. As I understand it, it's oxidation that causes it to go brown. Use clear bottles stored in a dark cupboard so you can keep an eye on its state without worrying that light will have a negative effect.

Honestly, unless you are talking about making a $6 package last a year or more, use HC-110. I prefer D-76 1+1, but HC-110 syrup is seriously cheap at a per roll basis. And it lasts a long, long time, apparently.
 
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HC-110 is the developer for you. It's not exactly the same as D-76 but close enough. Most importantly, it dilutes and works exactly the way you want to do.
 
Though if he insists on D76 putting glass marbles in the jug to keep the liquid at the top helps keep it from oxidizing.
 
Why not just get the 1 liter size if you don't go through it fast enough to use the gallon before it spoils? That's what I do. Its more costly, but hell this stuff is cheap anyway. Saving money isn't worth it when its already cheap and your images can suffer.
 
Another possible solution (no pun!) is to store the stock in a collapsible container. As the level goes down no air gets in - the container just follows the fluid level down.

A sugestion here is a wine cask. Empty the cask, (the best part), give it a thorough rinse out and fill it w a funnel and with the cask on its back push the bladder with a ruller or somesuch whilst letting any included air out thru the stopcock.

Wine stays good in these casks for a very long time and it's much more susceptible to oxidation than D-76. Label it clearly! ;) You wouldn't want to reach into the beer fridge and grab the wrong cask. A 4 litre cask is just over 1 US gal.

Murray
Brisbane, Oz
 
D76 is light-sensitive; exposure to light will actually shorten its life. So you've got to store it in a brown glass bottle or an opaque container. It will go bad much more quickly in a clear container.

The marble trick is a good one for bringing the level of the developer up to the neck of the bottle, so there's not as much trapped air inside to oxidize it. Another way: You used to be able to get brown accordion-shaped plastic bottles that you could squeeze down to eliminate excess air space, but I don't know if they're still available.

Alternative to this whole drill: I've used T-Max liquid developer very successfully as a one-shot. You've got to measure carefully, but this is no problem if your measuring graduate is finely calibrated. I think it's easier to mix than HC-110 because it isn't as syrupy. The unused concentrate lasts a long time in the original bottle. It gives nice results with Tri-X, Plus-X, and the T-Max family films.
 
Wine casks are made from aluminized mylar film and are multi layered.
Inside the box and with the lightproof film (and in the fridge with the light off) I believe (no proof) degradation from light wouldn't be problem.

Murray
Brisbane, Oz

jlw said:
D76 is light-sensitive; exposure to light will actually shorten its life. So you've got to store it in a brown glass bottle or an opaque container. It will go bad much more quickly in a clear container.
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cmedin said:
Though if he insists on D76 putting glass marbles in the jug to keep the liquid at the top helps keep it from oxidizing.
Click to expand...

or floating plastic "marbles." I mix from scratch to one litre glass amber bottles and decant if necessary to smaller (8oz.?) glass amber bottles. Store cool and dark and you'll easily get six months from a full air-tight container. Well worth the little effort. My solution never lasts six months. I use it too fast, which is easy to do, really.

.
 
jlw said:
The marble trick is a good one for bringing the level of the developer up to the neck of the bottle, so there's not as much trapped air inside to oxidize it. Another way: You used to be able to get brown accordion-shaped plastic bottles that you could squeeze down to eliminate excess air space, but I don't know if they're still available.

Alternative to this whole drill: I've used T-Max liquid developer very successfully as a one-shot. You've got to measure carefully, but this is no problem if your measuring graduate is finely calibrated. I think it's easier to mix than HC-110 because it isn't as syrupy. The unused concentrate lasts a long time in the original bottle. It gives nice results with Tri-X, Plus-X, and the T-Max family films.
Click to expand...
That's exactly what I do. I mix the 4l (D-76) / 1 gallon (XTOL) stock solution and store them in the accordion type bottles. They are available in 1.3 and 2.6l size. (brown plastic with blue screw cap, King ?) T-Max is good as one shot developer but quite expensive. I mix T-Max in 1:4 and use it two times, prolonging the development time by one minute for the second use. HC-110 is cheapest but I find it hard to mix in small quantities (down to 8ml syrup) and the results are not so nice compared to D-76. T-Max delivers the finest grain to my experience.
 
maddoc said:
That's exactly what I do. I mix the 4l (D-76) / 1 gallon (XTOL) stock solution and store them in the accordion type bottles. They are available in 1.3 and 2.6l size. (brown plastic with blue screw cap, King ?) T-Max is good as one shot developer but quite expensive. I mix T-Max in 1:4 and use it two times, prolonging the development time by one minute for the second use. HC-110 is cheapest but I find it hard to mix in small quantities (down to 8ml syrup) and the results are not so nice compared to D-76. T-Max delivers the finest grain to my experience.
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Tmax can be diluted 1+7 or 1+9 which saves chemical but with the consistancy of one-shot use. I always developed Tmax 400 in Tmax 1+7 and got great results. Kodak's Tmax 400 Datasheet lists 1+7 and 1+9 developing times for the film.
 
Chriscrawfordphoto said:
Tmax can be diluted 1+7 or 1+9 which saves chemical but with the consistancy of one-shot use. I always developed Tmax 400 in Tmax 1+7 and got great results. Kodak's Tmax 400 Datasheet lists 1+7 and 1+9 developing times for the film.
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Thanks for the info about T-max 1+7 and 1+9 ! I didn`t know this, should make usage of T-max a little cheaper.
 
maddoc said:
Thanks for the info about T-max 1+7 and 1+9 ! I didn`t know this, should make usage of T-max a little cheaper.
Click to expand...


No problem. I've been using it that way for years and loved it. The only thing I mix Tmax 1+4 for is developing Tmax 3200, which I shoot a lot of. Kodak never gave times for the 3200 film in more dilute Tmax Developer, and I suspect that either it wouldn't be strong enough to push the film or it would take super long dev. times so I never experimented to find 1+7 times for it.
 
i must admit that budget is a large factor in this idea or switch. currently i am running iflosol s (cheap!) and i do not like it at all. the local store has the gallon mix for $7 but i am going to check another store for the litre size. i do not really want to mix up a bunch and have it go to waste. i like the box wine idea, but then i would have to actaually drink the stuff... the accordian bottles might be a good plan as well.

i grew up on HP5+ and hc110 in high school and as a result i am not a fan of either (thought hc110 is tempting me back...) perhaps it s the association or the fact that i used that combo for so long... hc110 is also $15...
 
i have a variety of films in the fridge: fp4+, fortepan 100, neopan 1600, tmy3200, tmy400

i have rodinal but i am not sure i want to use that with my high iso films...
 
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