D76, mixing chemicals

Are you talking about partially filled bottles with stock solution that last only 4-8 hours? is there a way to make it last longer? How about the D76H that lacks hydroquinone? has anybody tried it?
 
D76H (Grant Haist) is a more stable version of D76 when you mix yourself.
When mixing yourself I would go this way and I would not make any large stock to keep over months but I would make the choice just mix what you need in a couple of weeks.

The problem of the Hydroquinone is that during the storage over more months the pH can rise and it will activate the Hydroquinone around pH of 9 and on that point D76 will creates a higher contrast.

So the solution of DIY is simple: Delete the Hydroquinone and go for the D76H version and as told just make the mix you need for a few weeks. Another advantage to delete the Hydroquinone is for environmental reasons. The material is already on the Black list of the EU.
 
Nikos72 said:
Are you talking about partially filled bottles with stock solution that last only 4-8 hours? is there a way to make it last longer? How about the D76H that lacks hydroquinone? has anybody tried it?
Click to expand...

No for plain D76. H may have different properties. I found out one time when I developed a roll of Tmax100 and it was perfect. I was given a roll by a wedding photog a week later and it was under developed 1/2 grade. I am very precise.

As far a age goes, I did an experiment with a studio set up and electronic flash. I developed a partial roll once a week for 8 weeks, then one every two weeks for 2 months, then once a month. Up to six months , all was perfect. Then a slow deterioration set in.

If H is missing hydroquinone, that makes it like D23 or Leica divided which I used to use. It was more forgiving.

You need to run your own tests with a reproducible subject and the same film emulsion. Either print or use a densitometer or project with enlarger and use an enlarging meter. Be precise, change nothing from one test to another.

Rodinal lasts 10 years. Did the very same test except yearly at the end . Low contrst startes to show around 10/12 years.

Get it out of the plastic bottle.
 
I have mixed my own D-76 finally and a strange thing has happened. I have started by using warm water 50-60 degC and mixing the ingredients at the given order:
1g of Sodium Sulfite, 2g Metol, 99g Sodium Sulfite, 5g Hydroqionone, 2g Borax.
Everything has gone well with the solution just being clear. While I had it to cool down in a brown bottle, some precipitate had formed. What is that? Is my solution a fully capable D-76? Did I do something wrong?
 
Nikos72 said:
I have mixed my own D-76 finally and a strange thing has happened. I have started by using warm water 50-60 degC and mixing the ingredients at the given order:
1g of Sodium Sulfite, 2g Metol, 99g Sodium Sulfite, 5g Hydroqionone, 2g Borax.
Everything has gone well with the solution just being clear. While I had it to cool down in a brown bottle, some precipitate had formed. What is that? Is my solution a fully capable D-76? Did I do something wrong?
Click to expand...

It could be metol which suspended but didn't dissolve, or it could be contaminants in the borax. Most borax is mined and has some impurities in it.

The best way to find out is to try it. I wouldn't be concerned to do so, but I would also not use it on really important shots.

Marty
 
Metol must had been dissolved completely. The solution looked clear even after the relatively long to dissolve Sodium Sulfite.
I have filtered out the precipitate and try it with a roll of FP4. Would you advice me keeping it if it works as D-76? Would you keep it?
 
Mine does that too. A grey precipitate forms in the bottom of the bottle.

I just filter my D-76 -before- each use. I bought a box of laboratory filter paper, but you can also use coffee filters.

I think this is normal. But it bothers me, so I filter.
 
I did that too. I have used a coffee filter to get the precipitate out of the solution. I have also discovered that Freakscene was correct about the borax. For sure it is not clean. I have tried to dilute a spoonful of it in a glass with warm water and discovered that it does not fully dissolve.
I have also tried my fresh home brew D-79 on FP4 (expired on 1987, EI 100). It came out with a bit of less contrast than what I got used to get out of Rodinal, but under the magnifying glass I cannot see any grain and the fog is minimal (1+3, 20 minutes, 20 degC).
 
You can tweak the contrast up by increasing development minimally (10-20%).

Sounds like you are all set

If it sits for a while you may need to filter it again, I have found.

I have gotten into the habit of filtering it, before each use. Not a big deal.
 
If I manage to get consistent results in every D-76 I make, I will adopt it as my all around developer. It stinks less than Rodinal too.
 
It's my universal go-to developer for almost all my films.
Cheap and easy to make, and very consistent, I have found.
I use mine in stock solution, replenish it, and dump it after six months.
Works for me. When I develop expired film, I tend to increase developer time a bit.
I find it helps.
 
OK, Here is what I use. Called "ADOX-Borax MQ"

Metol 4 gm
Sodium Sulphite 160 gm
Hydroquinone 8 gm
Borax 8 gm
Potassium Bromide 1 gm


Water to make 2 litres



ADOX-Borax Replenisher

20 ml per 36 exp roll


Metol 3 grams
Sodium Sulphite 80 gm
Hydroquinone 5 gm
Borax 18 gm

Water to make 1 litre

8-9 minutes at 20C with Tri-X or Double-X
Results have been excellent
 
Thank you very much for your invaluable info. As soon as I get this make consumed I will try your suggestion and the replenisher.
 
And I did my first big mistake with D-76. I have stored it next to Rodinal in the refrigerator and now there is more precipitate. 🙁
I have just read that I shouldn't. Is it possible to warm it up and try to dilute the new precipitate, or I'd rather mix some fresh?
 
I had in mind that lowering the temperature, not to a freezing point, would slow down the reaction of oxidization.
But this time I think that I have messed it up. I will mix a fresh one.
 
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