3rdrate
Member
Here's a question -- wanted to photograph a ski trip last year just as I got a great condition Canon 7 for something like a hundred or so. I tossed on a $40 Industar lens and had a blast shooting the trip, knowing that if I took a bad spill, I could care less if I destroyed my equipment (vs. my more expensive camera gear).
What I noticed on the trip is that the very, very cold weather was making the lens exceptionally hard to focus, to the point where it was unscrewing the lens from the camera body. Clearly the lube was freezing up, so I'd simply put the camera in my jacket when I wasn't using it and that seemed to solve the problem.
As time has passed, I've grown to enjoy my 7 quite a bit, and have been spending a bit more on lenses. It's all still well within the price point that, should it all get crushed in a bad fall on the slopes, I could easily replace it without a dent in the bank account. But I'm curious if anyone knows if very cold weather is causing any sort of damage to the camera or lens.
What I noticed on the trip is that the very, very cold weather was making the lens exceptionally hard to focus, to the point where it was unscrewing the lens from the camera body. Clearly the lube was freezing up, so I'd simply put the camera in my jacket when I wasn't using it and that seemed to solve the problem.
As time has passed, I've grown to enjoy my 7 quite a bit, and have been spending a bit more on lenses. It's all still well within the price point that, should it all get crushed in a bad fall on the slopes, I could easily replace it without a dent in the bank account. But I'm curious if anyone knows if very cold weather is causing any sort of damage to the camera or lens.
Ronald M
Veteran
Never permanent damage, just frozen lube.
When I started photography in 1958, winterizing cameras was the norm if a mountain/cold expedition was planned. All lub was removed and replaced upon return.
For my short treks, I put the camera under my parka except when taking a pic. I suppose a hand warmer in a small camera bag would work ok.
Worry about falling on a camera.
When coming home, I leave car heater off or very low. Inside, wrap with quilt or parka and allow to warm slowly . This takes 8 hours. Cheaper and faster than trip to repair station.
When I started photography in 1958, winterizing cameras was the norm if a mountain/cold expedition was planned. All lub was removed and replaced upon return.
For my short treks, I put the camera under my parka except when taking a pic. I suppose a hand warmer in a small camera bag would work ok.
Worry about falling on a camera.
When coming home, I leave car heater off or very low. Inside, wrap with quilt or parka and allow to warm slowly . This takes 8 hours. Cheaper and faster than trip to repair station.
Livesteamer
Well-known
One possible hazard, condensation. Bringing a cold camera into a warm, humid room is not good. It would soon be covered with moisture. Cold is also a good test of the shutter. Years back I had a IIIc Leica out in the cold for a few hours and the shutter had capping on that roll. I had it serviced soon after. Joe
3rdrate
Member
Thank you!
Thank you!
Hey Joe --
THANK YOU for explaining the one oddity from my ski shoot last year. Not on every photo, but on a handful, I had what appears to be shutter capping as I now look it up online. Since the trip, absolutely no problems taking pictures as normal. Can you explain what is happing and why in cold temps?
Thank you!
Hey Joe --
THANK YOU for explaining the one oddity from my ski shoot last year. Not on every photo, but on a handful, I had what appears to be shutter capping as I now look it up online. Since the trip, absolutely no problems taking pictures as normal. Can you explain what is happing and why in cold temps?
Robert Lai
Well-known
Old lube hardens up in cold weather. Then the shutter curtains don't travel evenly anymore, leading to uneven exposure across the frame.
Mackinaw
Think Different
Capping is when one shutter curtain overtakes the other. Usually only obvious at fast speeds, like 1/500th and 1/1000th. At cold temps, the shutter lubricant is thickening, preventing the shutter curtains from traveling at their normal speeds. At warmer temps, the lube softens up so everything goes back to normal.
Jim B.
3rdrate
Member
Thank you so much for the explanation. Explains exactly what went wrong, thankfully only for a few pics. Will toss handwarmers in my waist bag this year.
jbharrill1
Established
I'd be worried about falling on that camera if I were you, not because you'll do damage to the camera body, but the damage you'll do to you're body! Maybe try a plastic point and shoot? I know you won't have the control over the image like you want but at least you wont be jamming a 6 inch block of metal into your ribs.
I snowboard and used to keep my phone in my pocket. I fell one day on a rail and went straight to my right thigh (where my phone was) and ended up bruising the hell out of my leg. I never keep anything in my pockets anymore, even keys get left in the car. I also shattered my phone screen but that's not the point...the point is be careful skiing/riding with big metal objects, they hurt a lot!
I snowboard and used to keep my phone in my pocket. I fell one day on a rail and went straight to my right thigh (where my phone was) and ended up bruising the hell out of my leg. I never keep anything in my pockets anymore, even keys get left in the car. I also shattered my phone screen but that's not the point...the point is be careful skiing/riding with big metal objects, they hurt a lot!
3rdrate
Member
Hey JB -- I use a padded hip bag on a belt, so there's at least some padding separating me from the metal. But yes, I ski super cautiously.
David Hughes
David Hughes
Hi,
If you are worried about condensation then the minute you get indoors you should seal the camera and lenses in a freezer bag and leave them to warm up.
You can get lubricants that work over a wide range of temperatures and for perfection would have a summer and winter version but a complete strip down and so on twice a year is as daft as a brush. So stick the camera inside the top coat etc...
Regards, David
If you are worried about condensation then the minute you get indoors you should seal the camera and lenses in a freezer bag and leave them to warm up.
You can get lubricants that work over a wide range of temperatures and for perfection would have a summer and winter version but a complete strip down and so on twice a year is as daft as a brush. So stick the camera inside the top coat etc...
Regards, David
MrFujicaman
Well-known
The Russian lenses are very well known for the nasty thick lube that's used on them. I've wondered if it isn't really some kind of wax. It's stiff at 50F!
If you feel comfortable working on a lens, strip it down after marking the infinity point so you can put it back together right and soak the helicoid in a baby food jar of lighter fluid or clear PVC pipe cleaner overnight. After soaking scrub it with toothbrushes until all the nasty commie grease is gone.
To relube it, I recommend a Teflon based grease-Harbor Freight Tools has it in stock at most of their stores.
If you feel comfortable working on a lens, strip it down after marking the infinity point so you can put it back together right and soak the helicoid in a baby food jar of lighter fluid or clear PVC pipe cleaner overnight. After soaking scrub it with toothbrushes until all the nasty commie grease is gone.
To relube it, I recommend a Teflon based grease-Harbor Freight Tools has it in stock at most of their stores.
davhill
Canon P
I used to shoot ski photography semi-professionally, mostly on race courses, with video and still gear -- most often 2 Olympus SLRs with motor drives -- with a 28, and a big zoom -- which saves swapping lenses in the snow. Modern lubes mostly work fine except in extreme weather, and frankly, colder weather is easier on the gear than wet snowy weather. The main issue is battery life in the cold (lithium cells or a remote battery pack for the motor drives was useful). Always use a protective filter.
David is quite correct about the condensation issue, but bagging the camera INSIDE the lodge is too late: Seal your gear in freezer bags BEFORE going inside. The /instant/ a cold camera hits the moist warmth in a ski lodge, condensation will form. Always bag the camera outside, and keep it insulated until you're back outside, or until its acclimated inside.
I never much worried about falling
but then I've skied a lot, carrying all sorts of loads. If you're not a very good skier, protect your gear in a fanny pack or backpack, and take it out only when you've stopped. And don't be stupid - doing tricks, running races or riding rails is just plain asking for damage.
davhill
Canon P
Furthermore--You can destroy a modern camera real quick in the cold--condensation in the electronics is a fast track to an expensive paperweight. Manual/mechanical cameras are best for this work. These old cameras properly lubed (body AND lenses) with modern lubricants are nearly ideal cold weather tools.