tbarker13
shooter of stuff
I've decided to build a darkroom. I'm renovating my attic - partially for this purpose. The one sticking point is water. Had a plumber give me an estimate of almost $5,000 to get running water up there for a sink. That seems high to me, so I'm going to get another estimate. But unless the price drops a heck of a lot, there will be no running water.
I wonder if any of you folks have built a darkroom without running water. I know it's not critical - though it sure would be more convenient. I was thinking about getting one of those water cooler bottles (the 5 gallon type you see in offices) as a way to have some water handy.
Thoughts? Suggestions?
I wonder if any of you folks have built a darkroom without running water. I know it's not critical - though it sure would be more convenient. I was thinking about getting one of those water cooler bottles (the 5 gallon type you see in offices) as a way to have some water handy.
Thoughts? Suggestions?
Bassism
Well-known
I think that a water cooler would be a very workable solution. If you get one of the ones that will dispense room temperature water, the temperature should be fairly close to dev temperature.
For washing your film, you could use the Ilford method, which is pretty efficient in its water use.
The only problem I could see you running into is the washing of prints. But you could always toss them into a tray of water then transplant them to a bathroom when the time comes.
For washing your film, you could use the Ilford method, which is pretty efficient in its water use.
The only problem I could see you running into is the washing of prints. But you could always toss them into a tray of water then transplant them to a bathroom when the time comes.
Goldorak
-
I've had a darkroom for years without a sink. Basically, you need NO water under the safelight nor in the dark. This means you'll only need a receptacle to transport your prints out of the fixer to the bathroom.
The way I did it was simple. After the fixer I used to put the prints in the stop bath again (water + Vinegar) and when I was done, I'd wash them in a sink somewhere else.
The way I did it was simple. After the fixer I used to put the prints in the stop bath again (water + Vinegar) and when I was done, I'd wash them in a sink somewhere else.
dfoo
Well-known
My old darkroom had no water either. I had the dev tray, stop, fix and a bucket of water to put the fixed prints in. I then transported them to the bathroom for washing and dry. It was a bit annoying, but no big deal.
elude
Some photographer
same here, always did it without a sink and running water.
crawdiddy
qu'est-ce que c'est?
Same here. No problem not having a sink. I use an extra tray to transport fixed prints to the sink for washing.
Tom A
RFF Sponsor
Running water, filtered water, temperature controlled water etc is a "luxury" for most darkrooms. You can print just as well in a no running water.
developer, stop, fix and a bucket for storing prints until you can dump them in the bathtub works fine. Slightly less convinient but works fine. Film is easily transported in the developing tanks to kitchen/bathroom for washing.
The water cooler is a good idea as you will have access to room temperature, filtered water.
If you are in a attic space, you can probably jury rig a temporarily pipe out to a roof drain for dumping excess water. At least it saves the steps with buckets on "non essential" water. Developer is usually pretty safe to dump this way, stop bath is just diluted vinegar anyway. Fixer should be disposed of more carefully - particularly if you are on a septic tank system.
developer, stop, fix and a bucket for storing prints until you can dump them in the bathtub works fine. Slightly less convinient but works fine. Film is easily transported in the developing tanks to kitchen/bathroom for washing.
The water cooler is a good idea as you will have access to room temperature, filtered water.
If you are in a attic space, you can probably jury rig a temporarily pipe out to a roof drain for dumping excess water. At least it saves the steps with buckets on "non essential" water. Developer is usually pretty safe to dump this way, stop bath is just diluted vinegar anyway. Fixer should be disposed of more carefully - particularly if you are on a septic tank system.
eli griggs
Well-known
You can run your own small water lines by using the plastic plumbing tubing sold by the foot at Home Depot or Lowes, the use of a slightly larger drain line of the same material and some of the many varieties of fittings made specifically for these lines/projects. A lot of this stuff is IDed by color code so you know what fits what as you browse. Have one of the experienced sales people help you and dry-fit/assemble the parts as you go so everything goes together properly and you have everything you need in one go..
By-the-way, IMO it's better to run one long line instead of buying 25 foot runs of line and joining them for a long run. My hot and cold line are two pairs of 25' lines with a brass fitting that joins them together and though I haven't had any trouble I'd just as soon have one long line each.
If you have copper water lines, you can simply use a self-tapping saddle valve on a cold water line and a hot water line, if you can monitor it for leaks.
Hot water lines are not recommended for these, but in a safe location that can be checked, it should be ok.
Run the waste-water line to your washing machine drain pipe and you're good to go.
If there is a bathroom nearby, fitting exist to allow you to take your water from the sink feeds and run a waste-line into the sink drain, beneath the basin.
You can also do as I have and make your washer water feed pipes your water source by building a 'tee' that reduces one off take to a small enough water line and the other feeding your washer.
This is more expensive than the self-tapping valves but works without piecing a pipe. I think I paid about $100 for everything, including the combination of fittings that reduce the sink waste-line to a 3/8 inch line. Until I ran the lines I used a 5-7 gallon water bottle and vinyl tubing to collect waste-water from the sink and emptied that as needed.
I don't need a lot of running water in my darkroom so the small lines work well for me. I recycle distilled water jugs by marking them 'tap water' and keeping them on the same shelves where I keep distilled water for mixing chemicals. This way, my film wash water is the same temperature as my chemistry, I use the Ilford Method so figure a gallon or so for each tank of film. Paper washing only requires a low flow and the small lines are good enough for this. Same for cleaning up.
I used small bule and white "John Guest" press-fit/pull-release petcock valves for controlling the incoming water at the sink, no faucets yet, and they seem to be ok. Latter on I'll look for something more 'durable'. I also used a cutoff valve under the sink drain so I could control that out flow.
Even if you only run the drain line, it's worth the bother of putting a few very small holes through the walls, floor or what have you. Getting rid of waste water is the biggest thing, IMO, so if nothing else
I hope this helps
By-the-way, IMO it's better to run one long line instead of buying 25 foot runs of line and joining them for a long run. My hot and cold line are two pairs of 25' lines with a brass fitting that joins them together and though I haven't had any trouble I'd just as soon have one long line each.
If you have copper water lines, you can simply use a self-tapping saddle valve on a cold water line and a hot water line, if you can monitor it for leaks.
Hot water lines are not recommended for these, but in a safe location that can be checked, it should be ok.
Run the waste-water line to your washing machine drain pipe and you're good to go.
If there is a bathroom nearby, fitting exist to allow you to take your water from the sink feeds and run a waste-line into the sink drain, beneath the basin.
You can also do as I have and make your washer water feed pipes your water source by building a 'tee' that reduces one off take to a small enough water line and the other feeding your washer.
This is more expensive than the self-tapping valves but works without piecing a pipe. I think I paid about $100 for everything, including the combination of fittings that reduce the sink waste-line to a 3/8 inch line. Until I ran the lines I used a 5-7 gallon water bottle and vinyl tubing to collect waste-water from the sink and emptied that as needed.
I don't need a lot of running water in my darkroom so the small lines work well for me. I recycle distilled water jugs by marking them 'tap water' and keeping them on the same shelves where I keep distilled water for mixing chemicals. This way, my film wash water is the same temperature as my chemistry, I use the Ilford Method so figure a gallon or so for each tank of film. Paper washing only requires a low flow and the small lines are good enough for this. Same for cleaning up.
I used small bule and white "John Guest" press-fit/pull-release petcock valves for controlling the incoming water at the sink, no faucets yet, and they seem to be ok. Latter on I'll look for something more 'durable'. I also used a cutoff valve under the sink drain so I could control that out flow.
Even if you only run the drain line, it's worth the bother of putting a few very small holes through the walls, floor or what have you. Getting rid of waste water is the biggest thing, IMO, so if nothing else
I hope this helps
tbarker13
shooter of stuff
Thanks for all the responses folks.
Eli, you really have me wondering if I could do this myself.
But in a worst case scenario (no running water), it looks like I can still make it happen. When I heard the estimate from the plumber today, I was pretty depressed. But I'm feeling better now.
Eli, you really have me wondering if I could do this myself.
But in a worst case scenario (no running water), it looks like I can still make it happen. When I heard the estimate from the plumber today, I was pretty depressed. But I'm feeling better now.
Lannon
Newbie
Hey Tim
Not sure if it helps but I have just overcome a similar problem when building a darkroom in my garage. I decided to install a water tank that collects from the roof. With a small pump I am able to use 900 litres of water without a problem. You even get the added bonus of being able to water the lawn with it. Funny thing is the water out of the tank is always 20 degreesC. Perfect for black and white.
Cheers
Lannon
Not sure if it helps but I have just overcome a similar problem when building a darkroom in my garage. I decided to install a water tank that collects from the roof. With a small pump I am able to use 900 litres of water without a problem. You even get the added bonus of being able to water the lawn with it. Funny thing is the water out of the tank is always 20 degreesC. Perfect for black and white.
Cheers
Lannon
tbarker13
shooter of stuff
Interesting strategy. Being terrified of heights, I think I'll consider that option a last resort. I hate getting out on my roof.
titrisol
Bottom Feeder
That is no problem, use a bucket to get water upstairs to fill the trays (white bucket) and another for spent solutions/water (Black bucket)
Then I generally have a 3 tray system after fixer (RC) or HCA (FB):
- Water 1 - First bath - goes in the "black"bucket after 10 prints or so - fresh water becomes water 3
- Water 2 - becomes water 1
- Water 3 - becomes water 2
- Holding tray ( a big rectangular laundry bucket) filled with water until I can take them to the bathroom.
Then I generally have a 3 tray system after fixer (RC) or HCA (FB):
- Water 1 - First bath - goes in the "black"bucket after 10 prints or so - fresh water becomes water 3
- Water 2 - becomes water 1
- Water 3 - becomes water 2
- Holding tray ( a big rectangular laundry bucket) filled with water until I can take them to the bathroom.