martyr
Member
Hey all. Perhaps someone here might be able to give me some pointers regarding what I think might be a dead meter in the Electro GT I just bought on eBay.
I was doing some tests to see if the light meter was working - the only tests I know how to do are to change lighting conditions around a subject and see if the camera reacts to them by changing the shutter speed. That's the tried and true living room method, right?
For the first test I used the camera's timer with the camera on a tripod and me standing in front of the thing with the room black and only a candle lighting my face.
The lens was wide open and the resulting click at the end of the timer cycle sounded a lot like 1/500.
I tried with a cable release attached to the shutter button and got the same thing.
Then, with the camera off the tripod, held at arm's length with the lens facing me, f/1.7, I stood just outside my office doorway with only the soft glow of my computer monitor spilling out onto me. About a 0 to -1 EV if I understand that scale correctly. I clicked the shutter release (with my finger this time), got the yellow under exp light, then the blades snapped open but they stayed there. I waited. Waited some more. A little more and then I slowly faded up the dimmer switch on the lamp in my office. As the room filled with light, the blades clicked shut.
I tried again, this time with the lens set to f/8 and the same EV, I clicked the button and the blades snapped open to form a small circle in the middle of the lens but they just stayed there, again, frozen. I did the waiting thing for a really long time (figuring I had cut the amount of light coming in by quite a bit). I slowly started to release my finger from the shutter button and that's when the blades finally snapped shut. I've tested this scenario several more times and I get the same results no matter what f/stop I set the lens to.
Am I missing something? When the blades snap back closed, that means the shutter is also done firing, right? Is it safe to assume the blades don't stay at their designated aperture after the shutter is done firing, returning to their closed position only when you lift your finger?
It's probably worth noting that I'm using a strong 28L battery with an adapter I got on eBay from someone who calls himself the Old Yashica Guy in Wellton, AZ...I believe that's where he is. Battery test light works fine and, as I mentioned, the over/under exp lights work both on top and inside the VF.
Hope this made sense. Oh, and I'm doing all this with film in it. I don't know why I didn't test all this stuff with before I put a roll in the thing.
Thanks for any help you can send my way.
Marty
I was doing some tests to see if the light meter was working - the only tests I know how to do are to change lighting conditions around a subject and see if the camera reacts to them by changing the shutter speed. That's the tried and true living room method, right?
For the first test I used the camera's timer with the camera on a tripod and me standing in front of the thing with the room black and only a candle lighting my face.
The lens was wide open and the resulting click at the end of the timer cycle sounded a lot like 1/500.
I tried with a cable release attached to the shutter button and got the same thing.
Then, with the camera off the tripod, held at arm's length with the lens facing me, f/1.7, I stood just outside my office doorway with only the soft glow of my computer monitor spilling out onto me. About a 0 to -1 EV if I understand that scale correctly. I clicked the shutter release (with my finger this time), got the yellow under exp light, then the blades snapped open but they stayed there. I waited. Waited some more. A little more and then I slowly faded up the dimmer switch on the lamp in my office. As the room filled with light, the blades clicked shut.
I tried again, this time with the lens set to f/8 and the same EV, I clicked the button and the blades snapped open to form a small circle in the middle of the lens but they just stayed there, again, frozen. I did the waiting thing for a really long time (figuring I had cut the amount of light coming in by quite a bit). I slowly started to release my finger from the shutter button and that's when the blades finally snapped shut. I've tested this scenario several more times and I get the same results no matter what f/stop I set the lens to.
Am I missing something? When the blades snap back closed, that means the shutter is also done firing, right? Is it safe to assume the blades don't stay at their designated aperture after the shutter is done firing, returning to their closed position only when you lift your finger?
It's probably worth noting that I'm using a strong 28L battery with an adapter I got on eBay from someone who calls himself the Old Yashica Guy in Wellton, AZ...I believe that's where he is. Battery test light works fine and, as I mentioned, the over/under exp lights work both on top and inside the VF.
Hope this made sense. Oh, and I'm doing all this with film in it. I don't know why I didn't test all this stuff with before I put a roll in the thing.
Thanks for any help you can send my way.
Marty
martyr
Member
Oh yeah. That thing. I've been reading about how to replace it. I thought I was in the clear 'cause I didn't hear the noise that seems to characterize this problem.
martyr
Member
Oh, clunk is good! It winds really quietly. It's very smooth and light. Does the clunk change the feel of it at all? Is there cam you have to get over at a certain part of the stroke?
martyr
Member
Which approach do you recommend? The full frontal assault or down in from the top?
martyr
Member
Greyhoundman, this text from the Yashica Guy's website doesn't jive with what you told me. I don't know what to think.
"When the Shutter Release is pressed, a series of multiple spring loaded switch points are activated and move to their downward position and remain latched there. When the film advance lever is wound, the switches return to their original position and cause a 'click' sound as they hit the stop position. The spring pressure on this switch group is strong enough to able cause an annoying noise as the switch assembly returns. A "rubber" or some such pad, cushions this action and defines the start point. You will still hear a click when a good pad is in place but nothing like the loud 'clunk' heard when the pad starts to go, or is wasted."
"When the Shutter Release is pressed, a series of multiple spring loaded switch points are activated and move to their downward position and remain latched there. When the film advance lever is wound, the switches return to their original position and cause a 'click' sound as they hit the stop position. The spring pressure on this switch group is strong enough to able cause an annoying noise as the switch assembly returns. A "rubber" or some such pad, cushions this action and defines the start point. You will still hear a click when a good pad is in place but nothing like the loud 'clunk' heard when the pad starts to go, or is wasted."
bcs89
Contented Oly Owner
Mine works like a charm and "Clunks" like a horse - thanks g-man 
ush
Member
hey wait a minute !
i sent my GT to my local repair-shop asking the man to look for a possible POD
because of the loud clunk described in the yashica-guy's website #@! :bang:
is there at least one user here with a two smooth click electro ?
i sent my GT to my local repair-shop asking the man to look for a possible POD
because of the loud clunk described in the yashica-guy's website #@! :bang:
is there at least one user here with a two smooth click electro ?
oftheherd
Veteran
martyr said:
Do whatever makes you feel good martyr. But be aware that the g'man is a well respected repairman on this forum, with a proven track record. I and many others here can speak from personal experience about his keen repair abilities. And he is glad to share advice too, as you have seen. As I said, do as you wish, but if it were me, I would listen to him.
john neal
fallor ergo sum
What G'Man said - I know he would not give you a bum steer. I too have been inside many Yashicas and they should "clunk" after no more that 1/3 of the wind-on movement. I have seen ones that clunk as the winder returns - this means that the eccentric under the bottom plate needs adjusting.
A click is generally a sign of a missing pad, while no audible noise could mean that the secondary rod has become glued to the primary one by an extremely sticky PoD in its death thows (I have seen this).
Whatever the problem with the PoD, the switches will not be in the right place at the right time, giving metering problems.
Whether you attack it from above, or remove the front plate is a matter of personal choice. I prefer to take the front off to ensure that I recover all the bits of a failed pad, and check that the switch fingers are clean and running correctly (I had one camera where the 3rd finger was not actually making contact - that was a real b*tch to figure out).
A click is generally a sign of a missing pad, while no audible noise could mean that the secondary rod has become glued to the primary one by an extremely sticky PoD in its death thows (I have seen this).
Whatever the problem with the PoD, the switches will not be in the right place at the right time, giving metering problems.
Whether you attack it from above, or remove the front plate is a matter of personal choice. I prefer to take the front off to ensure that I recover all the bits of a failed pad, and check that the switch fingers are clean and running correctly (I had one camera where the 3rd finger was not actually making contact - that was a real b*tch to figure out).
martyr
Member
Eh, I feared some sort of back-lash from my last statement. I'm definitely not questioning G'man's wisdom, I was just pointing out the conflicting information I've been able to find on the subject. All this means really is that I'm probably going to return this camera to the guy I bought it from and move on with my life. I don't see myself ripping the front or the top off this camera anytime soon. Bummer though, seems like it would have been a fun rig to play with.
G'man, if you read this, would you send me a PM letting me know what you'd charge to fix this? Thanks much.
G'man, if you read this, would you send me a PM letting me know what you'd charge to fix this? Thanks much.
ush
Member
Greyhoundman, what about your own pages on the electro ?
or maybe a Q&A "sticky" post ?
or maybe a Q&A "sticky" post ?
Todd Frederick
Todd Frederick
Send your camera to the G'Man. You CAN afford it!
Mine had a solid metallic clunk, and that was not good.
He repaired it and I am expecting it any day now.
I'm sending him my Lynx 5000 tomorrow.
Mine had a solid metallic clunk, and that was not good.
He repaired it and I am expecting it any day now.
I'm sending him my Lynx 5000 tomorrow.
ijohnnyz
shoot pictures not people
Todd Frederick said:
I second that. His turn around time is unbelievable, under two weeks for me (that included shipping it to him and return shipping.) You can't beat his price compared to Mark Hama.
~johnny