martinledford
Newbie
I purchased an RD-1 this week and shot RAW format for two days. Today, I shot B&W JPEG (H) and noticed a dead pixel in the exact location on each B&W JPEG image. However, when I switched back to RAW the dead pixel was no longer there. Should I be concerned about this and return for an exchange? Or is this related to some internal algorithm regarding noise reduction?
Thanks,
Martin
Thanks,
Martin
S
Sean Reid
Guest
If everything else is working well on the camera, I wouldn't return it for just the one dead pixel.
Cheers,
Sean
Cheers,
Sean
FrankS
Registered User
Return it and get a film camera.
martinledford
Newbie
Hey, Frank:FrankS said:Return it and get a film camera.
Thanks for the reply. I already own several film cameras (Leica M7, Leica CM, Canon 1v, Hasselblad H1).
Martin
L
laurentvenet
Guest
maybe I would return it thinking of the high price of it, it should be flawless
FrankS
Registered User
Martin, if I were you I'd read Jorge's post on the slow death of digital.
(Just funning with ya.)
S
Sean Reid
Guest
Martin,
Frank wasn't serious. He's just messing with you.
Sean
Frank wasn't serious. He's just messing with you.
Sean
Jim Watts
Still trying to See.
Martin,
If you have read the other posts about Stuck/Hot pixels you will see that this is not uncommon with the R-D1. I have three stuck pixels and personally have not seen an R-D1 without at least one. Given that many exchanged cameras have been worst in this and other respects I would keep the one you have unless there are any other serious faults.
If you have read the other posts about Stuck/Hot pixels you will see that this is not uncommon with the R-D1. I have three stuck pixels and personally have not seen an R-D1 without at least one. Given that many exchanged cameras have been worst in this and other respects I would keep the one you have unless there are any other serious faults.
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Sean Reid
Guest
If one has an R-D1 with accurate rangefinder focusing, a viewfinder mounted truly square in the camera, just one hot pixel and no other faults...hold onto it for dear life. As much as I love this camera (and I do) one cannot deny that some of them have had defects of one kind or another. But a good copy of an R-D1 is certainly worth having. Should there be better QC for $3000? Absolutely. But...the situation for now is what it is and there are some very good examples of the R-D1 out there - I have one of them.
Jim,
What do you shoot that makes having three bodies desirable? news? weddings?
Cheers,
Sean
Jim,
What do you shoot that makes having three bodies desirable? news? weddings?
Cheers,
Sean
Jim Watts
Still trying to See.
Sean,
Guess I should always get someone to proof read my posts so they make sense. I have now edited to read three "stuck pixels". I have checked a total of three R-D1's at my dealer and on the Epson stand at Focus on Imaging and all have had stuck/hot pixels when the iso is pushed to 1600.
Now the thought of owning three R-D1's each with a different "Star" lens from your ongoing tests.
It's just the money thats the problem. :bang:
Thank's for pointing out the lack of clarity.
Guess I should always get someone to proof read my posts so they make sense. I have now edited to read three "stuck pixels". I have checked a total of three R-D1's at my dealer and on the Epson stand at Focus on Imaging and all have had stuck/hot pixels when the iso is pushed to 1600.
Now the thought of owning three R-D1's each with a different "Star" lens from your ongoing tests.
Thank's for pointing out the lack of clarity.
Jim Watts
Still trying to See.
I have just read Frank's thread on Good things coming in pairs.
Perhaps I do need 3 R-D1's just to up the ante!

Perhaps I do need 3 R-D1's just to up the ante!
S
Sean Reid
Guest
Based on what I know so far, if money were no object, I'd indeed carry three R-D1 bodies for working in fast changing circumstances:
R-D1 with Voigtlander Ultron 28/1.9 $3000 + $440.00
R-D1 with Leica 35/1.4 ASPH $3000 + $2795.00
R-D1 with Leica 50/1.4 ASPH $3000 + $2495.00
Total cost: $14, 730 (although I've already got the first body and the Ultron so that's a start)
One of my tasks today is to start to get a feel for how close the Nokton 1.5 comes to the Leica. The CV 35/1.2 is a good lens but, so far, it's not a match for the Leica 35/1.4.
Cheers,
Sean
R-D1 with Voigtlander Ultron 28/1.9 $3000 + $440.00
R-D1 with Leica 35/1.4 ASPH $3000 + $2795.00
R-D1 with Leica 50/1.4 ASPH $3000 + $2495.00
Total cost: $14, 730 (although I've already got the first body and the Ultron so that's a start)
One of my tasks today is to start to get a feel for how close the Nokton 1.5 comes to the Leica. The CV 35/1.2 is a good lens but, so far, it's not a match for the Leica 35/1.4.
Cheers,
Sean
martinledford
Newbie
Hot/Dead Pixels on JPEG vs. RAW
Hot/Dead Pixels on JPEG vs. RAW
Hey, Guys:
Thanks for your responses to my question. However, I am still confused as to why when shooting 1600 I would see a hot/dead pixel on a the JPEG image but not on the RAW image at 1600. These shots are the same image at the same time.
Thanks,
Martin
Hot/Dead Pixels on JPEG vs. RAW
Hey, Guys:
Thanks for your responses to my question. However, I am still confused as to why when shooting 1600 I would see a hot/dead pixel on a the JPEG image but not on the RAW image at 1600. These shots are the same image at the same time.
Thanks,
Martin
pfogle
Well-known
Martin, can you please clarify? Do you see the 'non'-hot pixel on a tiff or a jpeg you've processed from the RAW?
I imagine that the hot pixel is below the noise threshold for the RAW conversion (there will be some background noise reduction), but is seen as a 'feature' by the on-board jpeg algorithm, which can then be amplified in the compression process.
I have a 1-pixel hotspot in RAW, which becomes a 5-pixel star in jpeg. Not quite the same case, but perhaps a similar process?
cheers
Phil
I imagine that the hot pixel is below the noise threshold for the RAW conversion (there will be some background noise reduction), but is seen as a 'feature' by the on-board jpeg algorithm, which can then be amplified in the compression process.
I have a 1-pixel hotspot in RAW, which becomes a 5-pixel star in jpeg. Not quite the same case, but perhaps a similar process?
cheers
Phil
martinledford
Newbie
Hey, Phil:pfogle said:Martin, can you please clarify? Do you see the 'non'-hot pixel on a tiff or a jpeg you've processed from the RAW?
I imagine that the hot pixel is below the noise threshold for the RAW conversion (there will be some background noise reduction), but is seen as a 'feature' by the on-board jpeg algorithm, which can then be amplified in the compression process.
I have a 1-pixel hotspot in RAW, which becomes a 5-pixel star in jpeg. Not quite the same case, but perhaps a similar process?
cheers
Phil
Thanks for the response. My test involved shooting a dark wall twice. The first time using RAW at 1600. I then use the Epson RAW converter in PS (Mac version) and convert with standard settings 16-bit into PS. Then, I shoot the same wall scene with JPEG High @ 1600. I use "standard" settings in the camera set-up. I've also used NR set to highest setting. I open this image in PS as well. When I compare the RAW version to the JPEG version, I see a hot spot (same place every time) in the JPEG version but it's not there in the RAW version. I find it odd that the RAW version never shows the hot spot but the JPEG does.
Thanks for your help.
Martin
pfogle
Well-known
well, I think you're lucky it's only in the jpg! It's a drag though, when you need jpg. Still, they ususally aren't visible in prints.
As far as NR goes, I'm not really sure, but I think that the noise reduction in the built in film settings are for shutter speeds of 2 secs an over, using dark field subtraction. At least, I think that's true if the NR is set to 'high'. Obviously, they'd use a different method in PhotoRaw.
Out of interest, do you see the hotspot if you make a jpg from the RAW, rather than 16bit tiff?
cheers
Phil
As far as NR goes, I'm not really sure, but I think that the noise reduction in the built in film settings are for shutter speeds of 2 secs an over, using dark field subtraction. At least, I think that's true if the NR is set to 'high'. Obviously, they'd use a different method in PhotoRaw.
Out of interest, do you see the hotspot if you make a jpg from the RAW, rather than 16bit tiff?
cheers
Phil
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