Athiril
Established
Alright guys, this is for anyone interested, something I whipped together to start experimenting on, I've made my own first developer as a test, this was the 2nd test, and the first with success (of some measure).
Just to show that aged/fogged slide film isn't necessarily useless and irrecoverable.
I had made several attempts before this with latent image bleaching techniques, and bleaching post first development but pre colour development among things, so far this has been the most effective and simplest method, brewing my own first developer to compensate for fogged film, as I've done with colour negs.
I'll just leave this pic here of the results thus far, far from happy with it (want better colour, change tone curve a bit), is a bit speed losing, and base does look like the film is very slightly aged with the lightest hint of base fogging (need more dMax) like it's been well stored instead of poorly stored.
But if you can recover this much from something that badly fogged, more smaller adjustments could be made, and film that's not nearly as badly as fogged is also going to be able to get great dMax.
The film is some really old Kodak EPN I found in a bulk loader.
Also wanting to try lower contrast, but warmer colour mod for Provia 100f, higher contrast mod for Velvia for some real insanity.
2020 edit: picture was gone
Just to show that aged/fogged slide film isn't necessarily useless and irrecoverable.
I had made several attempts before this with latent image bleaching techniques, and bleaching post first development but pre colour development among things, so far this has been the most effective and simplest method, brewing my own first developer to compensate for fogged film, as I've done with colour negs.
I'll just leave this pic here of the results thus far, far from happy with it (want better colour, change tone curve a bit), is a bit speed losing, and base does look like the film is very slightly aged with the lightest hint of base fogging (need more dMax) like it's been well stored instead of poorly stored.
But if you can recover this much from something that badly fogged, more smaller adjustments could be made, and film that's not nearly as badly as fogged is also going to be able to get great dMax.
The film is some really old Kodak EPN I found in a bulk loader.
Also wanting to try lower contrast, but warmer colour mod for Provia 100f, higher contrast mod for Velvia for some real insanity.
2020 edit: picture was gone
Last edited:
Photo_Smith
Well-known
If the bottom is without improvement/changes to the processes and the top after then it seems to have made a significant difference.
The Dmax is R2.42 G2.71 B2.22 yes? What are the step 3 and step 5 values.
Looking at your D-max results I'd say two things, colour record layers within the film age at different rates, you may no be able to chemically adjust this consistently so digital may help.
That said the p.h of the colour developer being too high or too low can also change the relationship between the records, so putting a 10% aqueous solution of NaOH may well remove the overall cast but this is film dependant, that is Kodak and Fuji stock behave slightly differently and depending on the stock you may have to lower the p.h using a 10% aqueous solution of sulphuric acid.
But if I'm not confused by your post you seem to have created a reasonable working solution, especially for out of date film.
Not trying to be funny but why not start of with a standard Fuji E6 kit? or similar...
Regards
Mark
The Dmax is R2.42 G2.71 B2.22 yes? What are the step 3 and step 5 values.
Looking at your D-max results I'd say two things, colour record layers within the film age at different rates, you may no be able to chemically adjust this consistently so digital may help.
That said the p.h of the colour developer being too high or too low can also change the relationship between the records, so putting a 10% aqueous solution of NaOH may well remove the overall cast but this is film dependant, that is Kodak and Fuji stock behave slightly differently and depending on the stock you may have to lower the p.h using a 10% aqueous solution of sulphuric acid.
But if I'm not confused by your post you seem to have created a reasonable working solution, especially for out of date film.
Not trying to be funny but why not start of with a standard Fuji E6 kit? or similar...
Regards
Mark
Athiril
Established
The top roll, is the one with modified process. It is first developer I made, process is 6 minutes, 38 celsius to keep it simple, second step, I stopped instead of washing for 2 minutes, then film was loaded into a dip and dunk E-6 processor starting at reversal bath.
I have no HD and LD values, it's not yet visually satisfying for me, but I may plot colour curves at some point.
I just want to get the basic concept down first, I'm not interested in using the EPN specifically, so I'm putting it to use for this kind of testing, so I can have a better starting point for any other aged slide films I might want to use to jump right into without much wastage.
I have no HD and LD values, it's not yet visually satisfying for me, but I may plot colour curves at some point.
I just want to get the basic concept down first, I'm not interested in using the EPN specifically, so I'm putting it to use for this kind of testing, so I can have a better starting point for any other aged slide films I might want to use to jump right into without much wastage.