Dear LeicaHeads

back alley said:
maybe i'm just too casual but the background out of focus areas don't ever seem to attract my attention, in either a negative or positive way. i look for limited dof in some shots, if i'm trying to isolate something but usually that's as far it goes.
and what nails it for me is i have never heard a non shooter mention, in any way, the oof areas in a photo.

joe

No, I'm sure the average Joe (sorry, I couldn't resist!) would never mention OOF areas. BUT ...

If you could measure emotional reaction to photos with different bokeh characteristics, you would find the differences there. Subconscious/subliminal is what it's all about.

Trius
 
celluloidprop said:
My thinking is that I can always use Neopan 1600 with my 'lux - if you've got the money (or in my case, found a good deal on a used 'lux from Canada when the dollar was stronger), I don't believe there are any disadvantages to the faster lenses.

Ahh...Celluloid. Exactly my thinking as well. Although After reading so many thoughful replies I do wonder if The summicrons would suit me....
 
vizioneer said:
Haha well of course but we're talking strict comparisons.

Vizoneer,
Since you are planning to use my dream....how do you like your MP? Another post mentioned it as a worthwhile option and I'm warmong up to it....which finder are you using?
 
Frank Granovski said:
4 X 6 pics taken with the G2/45mm F2 look just as sharp as 4 X 6 pics taken with the Mamiya 6/normal. Same film. But I bet the Mamiya stuff blows up really good. 😉

Frank,
Being a G2 user I know the sharpness of G2 lenses is incredible.....I'm trying to stick to 35mm at this point
 
Pymm said:
I bought a Leica a couple of weeks ago, my fisrt 35mm camera. I did quite some research on the subject, and although money was not a too big issue I went for the M6 TTl instead of the M7 or MP. And because I wear glasses I went for the .58 with a 1.25.
The M7, as noted here before is dependant on electronics, and this is reall not Leicas best point. The guy in the shop where I always buy my camera stuff could of sold me a new M7, but mentioned that he had quite some returns on the M7 for faulty electronics. He then could of sold me a new MP but advise me on a A condition used M6TTL, which was half the price of the MP. I bought it with the 50mm Elmar (I like the tessar concept) and 2 days ago I got the 35mm summicron Asph. Roughly all for the same price as a new MP or M7 would of cost. I have a 2 year guarantee on the M6.
I tried out all viewfinders and found that the .58 was the best suited to my eyes. I got the 1.25 with it for if I ever want to use 75' or 90' but I am more a wideangle shooter.
The M6 is a beautiful camera and I'm pleased I bought it. The AE I don't miss since I always use lightmeters anyway and by now can roughly guess the light conditions.
As for fast lenses, I would love to have them, but taking the price into account I think Neopan 1600 or tri-x at 1000 is a worthier solution.

How do you like the Elmar? are the pictures as sharp as your summicron?
 
gabrielma said:
I'm confused by this statement, I've read this elsewhere. Here's why: I've seen people use M7s, and I thought they were a bit more audible than my M6 (classic) is. If the M2 is louder than my M6, then this would mean that my M6 is quieter than "normal", and that would explain my observation. Would you agree?

Gabriel... I don't quite believe on categorical statements like "the M2 is louder/quieter that the M6" and so forth. It just happens that my two M6 bodies are very different when it comes to volume. One has a kind of baritone sound, a bit quieter than the other, which clicks like a tenor (higher pitch), and a little tiny bit louder. The fact that the M7 has an electronic shutter guarantees the shutterspeed accuracy, but the volume... that's probably very distinctive and individual from one body to another.

The fact that Leicas are, as a general rule, quieter than other cameras, remains the same. At least to me! 🙂
 
Palaeoboy said:
"More mechanical, and hence more control."

Im curious how mechanical manual in a M6 gives you more control than the electronic manual in an M7?

Paleoboy, to me it's just a matter of steps. With my non-AE bodies, I follow the meter and, if it suits me, I simply turn the aperture ring or the shutterspeed dial to change the exposure. With the M7 on Auto, if I wanted to alter the exposure in any way, I'd have to turn the camera to manual, and then do the changes.

That's what I meant by control. It's basically a step less to take when you're out and must shoot quickly.
 
Hi Big Steve,

I had 2 M6 TTLs before (.58 and .72). I have the .58 MP now. Since I wear glasses I like using the .58 finder with the 35mm, but haven't used the .58 with a 75mm yet- but bought a nice preowned 1.25x mag. for the 75mm when it arrives in December. We'll see how that goes- I've checked the view with the mag. and the frame selector and it looks good. Although, I think the .72 is the choice if you don't wear glasses and want to shoot with a 35/50/75/90 combination thereof. With the 90 you still may want to get a mag.. I think the .72 finder resolves more detail to help with focusing just a touch. Some may say things "snap" into focus better- which is just an expression to say that they see more detail. Good luck with your choices.
 
Forgot to say, the MP buries the M6 TTL in seeming uber design and construction- and appearance. The controls are so smooth and positive, even the film advance lever is smoother and quieter. It's a great mech. film body.
 
Some other tips- I bought my 35 lux asph chrome new from popflash.com for a little under $2400, the MP preowned but never used for about $2100, and the 75 lux is mint barely used for about $1600 (ebay ad that didn't reach reserve- fortunately the owner still had it!). Definitely pays to shop around.
 
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