Depressed

scottyb70 said:
What method and chemicals are you using?
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I have posted my stuff on apug, but here it is. Also, check out this other post i made a while ago.

http://www.apug.org/forums/forum37/130068-b-w-reversal-film-test-just-hell.html

here is my process....

1) Develop
dektol used 1:2 or 1:1 for foma films, to make a liter. IF using a Hypo, mix the hypo solution that is 6.5 grams in 250 ml distilled water. add 4ml of the hypo mixture to the dektol. this really does foam up a lot during agitation. develop for 12 minutes agitate first min then every 1 min for 10 seconds. be gentle

2) do a water wash, three water changes, 10, 20 and 30 inversions

3) Bleach. Mix up the bleach in 2 parts, 500ml each. keep em separate until time to use. it is not real stable but can be used up to 4 times once mixed if used within a few hours of being mixed together. Part A is 500 ml water with 3g of Potassium dichromate and part 2 is the acid, 500ml water with 12.5 grams Sodium Bisulphate. I got the Sodium Bisulphate at a pool supply company as pool acid. agitate for 10 minutes. Your leader (when complete) should be clear. if not, you have not bleached enough.

4) water wash again 10, 20 and 30 inversions

5) Clear. 1 liter of water with 30 grams of Sodium Sulphite. agitate for 5 minutes. This can be saved and used up to 8 times. extend a little after the 2nd use, about 15%. . If you see black spots in light areas of your image, try increasing the clear time.

6) water wash, 10 20 and 30 inversions

7) Reversal and Fix. Iron out step. I use a chemical reversal instead of a light exposure method. It also does the fix for me. just easier and for me, a little more idiot proof. use Iron out rust remover, which I got at Home Depot. its primary ingredient is sodium hydrosulfite aka sodium dithionite. I use 1 teaspoon for every 200 ml of water in my tank. easy, yes, but it does smell funny. You must use distilled water as the Iron out will react to tap water! this is 1 shot, so use and dump.

8) water wash 10, 20 30 and 40 inversions.

9) photo flow for a minutes. DO NOT SQUEEGEE! you run the risk of losing your image. just take out and hang to dry. I let em dry for an extra hour than usual to make sure the emulsion hardens nicely.

**** when you are done you should mix the clear and the bleach together before dumping, to neutralize the bleach.*******


this system has worked for me with repeatable results when using orwo 54, FP4, Xtreme 100 and 400 and especially Rollei retro 8-s and 400s/superpan 200. I tried a few other films but got real dark results. my guess is the dektol needs to be mixed a little stronger, like maybe 1:1. I have had no luck with this process and using tabular grain films like acros, delta and tmax. I prefer to use traditional grain films anyway as the 2 Retro films have become my standard films
 
Try to get the Klaus Wehner reversal kit. It works in a simple way for:
Agfa Scala 200, Fomapan R100 (temporary unavailable *), Rollei Retro 400(S)/Superpan 200, Adox Silvermax (in fact a Scala copy), CMS 100 II.

* Comment Foma factory:
I am sorry to inform you that the Fomapan 100 R 35mm is temporarily unavailable due to technical problems in production. We don´t intend to stop the production, but unfortunately, now we are not able tell you a prospect when the problem will be solved and we will be able to supply this type of films again.
 
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Example in 6x4,5cm on Rollei Retro 400(S) with this kit.
 
It is also available in our web shop (on-line). But it will be like the Fomapan R100 films + FOMA reversal kit a slow going product.
 
All very interesting points here, thanks to all.
In the meantime, I have found a rich source of (old) Fomapan R100, that is still well within sell by date (2017)...Can't wait to try it out.
 
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