FrankS
Registered User
I've heard this can be done, but have never tried. I have some old colour neg film from years ago with no idea what's on them. Any recommendations on how long to soup 100 and 400 speed films in HC-110?
develop colour neg film in B+W chemistry
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John Noble
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Google is your friend. I was interested enough in the concept to search for "hc-110 c-41 film" and found this in the first few results:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/chaplaincolby/1195910735/
My first reaction was that there's no way it would work, so I'm pretty surprised. The example above has a very strange look, but maybe it's another useful palette to have on hand.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/chaplaincolby/1195910735/
My first reaction was that there's no way it would work, so I'm pretty surprised. The example above has a very strange look, but maybe it's another useful palette to have on hand.
Kameran Kashani
Newbie
On Photo.net, there's a forum thread with an example of Portra 160NC developed in D76 1+1 for 7.5 minutes: http://photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00AmwO. More info from APUG, with at least one poster claiming to have processed C-41 in HC-110, but stating he forgot the time/temp 🙂-/): http://www.apug.org/forums/forum37/39531-develop-color-film-b-w-chemistry.html.
Processing C-41 in B&W chemistry has been on my to-do list for ages. Would love to see your results if you make the attempt.
Kameran
Processing C-41 in B&W chemistry has been on my to-do list for ages. Would love to see your results if you make the attempt.
Kameran
mich8261
Well-known
Frank,
I remember seeing something here about that. Someone posted their results. I did a quick search and couldn't find it. I seem to remember that Greyhoundman commented in the thread, that might help you find it.
I remember seeing something here about that. Someone posted their results. I did a quick search and couldn't find it. I seem to remember that Greyhoundman commented in the thread, that might help you find it.
MartinP
Veteran
(Very) long ago I processed a roll of XP1 (the Ilford C41 process) in a normal developer as a normal 400asa film and it ended up thin but useable. Try 20% more than HP5 and cross the fingers !
I did that as a test after reading in a photo mag about someone who tried it and liked the result. As standard film was cheaper, and the results were not great, I never did it again.....
The first dev for C41 is supposed to be doing the same job as a normal developer, the bleaching etc comes after that, so there will be some sort of image if original-exposure, base-fog and storage-conditions are in a good combination. Also, stating the obvious, scanning might be more successful than printing given the orange mask.
I worked in a lab for some years and we had someone appear with a very old 120/620 roll of paper b+w "film". Of course, I only found it was paper after clip-testing a couple of centimetres of it after the customer had left. I rang the Kodak helpline for Q-labs and they gave a time to use, but the images were almost invisible, due to high fog and the thickness of the paper support making printing verrrrry slow and low contrast. I suppose they would have originally been printed in some sort of custom contact-printer. Very odd.
I did that as a test after reading in a photo mag about someone who tried it and liked the result. As standard film was cheaper, and the results were not great, I never did it again.....
The first dev for C41 is supposed to be doing the same job as a normal developer, the bleaching etc comes after that, so there will be some sort of image if original-exposure, base-fog and storage-conditions are in a good combination. Also, stating the obvious, scanning might be more successful than printing given the orange mask.
I worked in a lab for some years and we had someone appear with a very old 120/620 roll of paper b+w "film". Of course, I only found it was paper after clip-testing a couple of centimetres of it after the customer had left. I rang the Kodak helpline for Q-labs and they gave a time to use, but the images were almost invisible, due to high fog and the thickness of the paper support making printing verrrrry slow and low contrast. I suppose they would have originally been printed in some sort of custom contact-printer. Very odd.
FrankS
Registered User
Thank you. I'd forgotten about my friend Google.
gb hill
Veteran
I just read an article on cross processing. But deals mostly with E-6 slide film and C-41 chemicals. Does make a slight reference to color film and B&W chemicals, but I don't agree with the authers assumption that b&w film is cheaper than color film unless he is refering to slide film. Here is the article for anyone interrested.
http://www.jpgmag.com/stories/948
http://www.jpgmag.com/stories/948
Last edited:
sienarot
Well-known
How interesting. I've asked this before in other forums and the response was either "you can't do it" or "nothing will happen and you'll mess up your chemicals". I wonder how many of these people actually tried before responding.
Can any colour film work with any developer? I have tons of NPZ and Fuji Superia 200 that's taking up freezer room....
Can any colour film work with any developer? I have tons of NPZ and Fuji Superia 200 that's taking up freezer room....
Bryce
Well-known
I've read others' comments on the topic, and the common thread seems like the results were different, marginally useable, but nothing to get excited about.
Having never actually SEEN any pictures processed this way, I'm very curious to see what it actually looks like.
So if anyone here actually tries the idea, please post some results and whatever thoughts you may have about it afterwards!
Having never actually SEEN any pictures processed this way, I'm very curious to see what it actually looks like.
So if anyone here actually tries the idea, please post some results and whatever thoughts you may have about it afterwards!
Wayno
Well-known
I've tried it for a couple of "found" films recovered from cameras I've bought, where I've had nothing to lose by trying it. I just used the developer I have on hand (Ilford LC29) and guessed at a time appropriate for the film speed. It worked amazingly well for an old roll of 120 Kodacolor that was in a Diacord - negs look great, although they obviously have the orange base colour. It also worked well for another 120 roll I found, although it was just a mess of double exposures and blank frames.
The only time I've tried it for 135 (a roll of Kodak Gold from a Demi 1/2 frame) the negs were quite dense and the base didn't seem to clear properly. I don't know if this was due to the chemistry; perhaps the whole roll had been slightly exposed over time because the light seals (very substantial and important in a Demi) had disintegrated. It's a shame it didn't work so well because it was a full roll of 1/2 frame - lots of images!
I'm sure I've read somewhere that if you develop C41 as B&W, it may be possible to later recover the colours because the dye couplers are still present?!?
The only time I've tried it for 135 (a roll of Kodak Gold from a Demi 1/2 frame) the negs were quite dense and the base didn't seem to clear properly. I don't know if this was due to the chemistry; perhaps the whole roll had been slightly exposed over time because the light seals (very substantial and important in a Demi) had disintegrated. It's a shame it didn't work so well because it was a full roll of 1/2 frame - lots of images!
I'm sure I've read somewhere that if you develop C41 as B&W, it may be possible to later recover the colours because the dye couplers are still present?!?
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