presspass
filmshooter
I have been trying to find a developer/dilution/agitation routine that will give me scans without blown highlights and will still wet print somewhere between grades 2.5 and 3.5 using Ilford Multigrade. I have tried Xtol straight down to 1:3, regular agitation and semi-stand; D-23 diluted and as a divided developer with Borax and with Metaborate; and D-76 1:1 regular agitation. So far, not as much success as i would like. Suggestions?
Tim Gray
Well-known
I use XTOL 1:1 with regular agitation. No problems printing at grade 2 on Ilford Multigrade and scanning on a Nikon Coolscan. All kinds of film - Tri-X, TMZ, TMY, Plus-X, HIE, etc.
No problems with blown highlights.
No problems with blown highlights.
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
I just develop normally. The times/developers/etc. that print well on grade2 scan perfectly. If you get blown highlights, it is likely your scan settings, not the film, at fault.
raytoei@gmail.com
Veteran
presspass, after 1 year of scanning, i finally figured out I should turn the AE (Auto Exposure) to Off from the default ON setting... hahahah.
Freakscene
Obscure member
What film and scanner are you using?
The difference between my negs on conventional B&W films specifically for scanning and those for wet printing using a diffusion enlarger is about 1.5-2 grades of contrast - I need grade 3-4 graded paper (or 3.5-4.5 if using multigrade paper) to wet print negs for scanning, while the wet print negs print well at grade 1-2 (1.5-2.5 if using multigrade paper).
If you try, however, to scan negs developed for wet printing and you have a scanner that doesn't resolve details well through a thicker neg (typically if you're using a flatbed, however good it is) you'll get considerably reduced quality.
Pyro development can help, because it adds contrast and density in wet printing that scanners don't seem to have a problem with, but generally the answer to this question is, unfortunately, "get a better scanner".
Marty
The difference between my negs on conventional B&W films specifically for scanning and those for wet printing using a diffusion enlarger is about 1.5-2 grades of contrast - I need grade 3-4 graded paper (or 3.5-4.5 if using multigrade paper) to wet print negs for scanning, while the wet print negs print well at grade 1-2 (1.5-2.5 if using multigrade paper).
If you try, however, to scan negs developed for wet printing and you have a scanner that doesn't resolve details well through a thicker neg (typically if you're using a flatbed, however good it is) you'll get considerably reduced quality.
Pyro development can help, because it adds contrast and density in wet printing that scanners don't seem to have a problem with, but generally the answer to this question is, unfortunately, "get a better scanner".
Marty
presspass
filmshooter
Marty:
The scanner is a Nikon Super Coolscan 5000 ED. The scanner is at work; I was at home when I wrote the original question and didn't remember all the details of the scanner model. I apologize.
The scanner is a Nikon Super Coolscan 5000 ED. The scanner is at work; I was at home when I wrote the original question and didn't remember all the details of the scanner model. I apologize.
Tim Gray
Well-known
If you have a decent scanner like a Coolscan 5000, you should have no problems scanning negs that print fine at grade 2-3.
DNG
Film Friendly
I don't wet print, but, I found that if I scan a tad flat on contrast, I get much better results that I can bring up in editing. I also scan at 5000dpi for a TIFF of about 75mb. I turn off all the auto fix options, and manually adjust the curves and histogram with my scanner. I develop in Xtol Stock or 1:1 at spec temp/time. agitate 10s every 60s. (For Acros 100 at 100), my negs should wet print on a 1.5-2.5 paper... If I wet printed. I used to, but cost has prevented me from starting up again.
Freakscene
Obscure member
A Coolscan 5000ED should do fine with most negs. When you say
Marty
what are your problems or difficulties?
Marty