venchka
Veteran
Why can't you buy plain Jane original Rodinal? There are online sources in Europe.
I'll second the vote for D-76 1:1 and HP5+. I'm using that combination in 4x5 and like it. D-76 stock soulution keeps 6 months minimum in a partially full tightly stopped bottle in a dark cupboard. I say 6 months minimum because I dumped what was left after 6 months. It was working fine at the time.
I'll second the vote for D-76 1:1 and HP5+. I'm using that combination in 4x5 and like it. D-76 stock soulution keeps 6 months minimum in a partially full tightly stopped bottle in a dark cupboard. I say 6 months minimum because I dumped what was left after 6 months. It was working fine at the time.
briandaly
Established
briandaly
Established
Venchka,
Rodinal has also disappeared of the local shelves. I was advised that D76, once mixed, didn't keep all that well, although your experiences would contradict this. Also, I'm shooting 35mm so any shortcomings will be greatly magnified compared to a 4x5 negative.
However, I'll probably give D76 a try once the DD-X runs out - seems to be a lot cheaper.
CuS
Established
HC-110 is the answer
HC-110 is the answer
I use lots of Rodinal, especially for Agfapan APX100, Plus-X and Tri-X.
But for Acros and Neopan (both 400 and 1600 - even pushed), I use HC-110 dil. B.
Acros especially loves this developer and if you go dil. H (longer times), you will find it very difficult to focus on any grain during enlargement!
I typically use dil. B because I'm in a bit of a contrast phase!
Cheers!
HC-110 is the answer
I use lots of Rodinal, especially for Agfapan APX100, Plus-X and Tri-X.
But for Acros and Neopan (both 400 and 1600 - even pushed), I use HC-110 dil. B.
Acros especially loves this developer and if you go dil. H (longer times), you will find it very difficult to focus on any grain during enlargement!
I typically use dil. B because I'm in a bit of a contrast phase!
Cheers!
John Bragg
Well-known
D76 is also much cheaper if you mix it from raw chemicals and there is no issue with freshness. HC-110 and Rodinal keep for many years in concentrated form with no loss of potency so they would be my first choice and it is worth seeking farther afield for supplies, since a little goes a very long way indeed and running costs are minute when you have stashed some away. One 500ml bottle of Rodinal will develop 50 films at 1:50 dilution and a Litre of HC-110 syrup will develop at least 125 films at Dilution H or 1:63..
Freakscene
Obscure member
[FONT="]>XTOL wont fail suddenly with care
A year ago I'd have agreed, but this summer I had Xtol fail on me twice. Mixed with Millepore water (18 Million ohms resistance across 10mm of the water - so purer than the 'distilled' water from a supermarket), with a magnetic stirrer at controlled temperature, in a non-reactive container used only for Xtol and stored in air-free glass bottles in the dark. The only thing I can figure was that this summer was hotter than the last 5 or 6 (probably the hottest since 200/01). It only 'failed' to the extent that it didn't work at 1+3, mixed 1+1 the same solution was fine
[/FONT]
>How would you go about testing it? Is there a way of doing this >that doesn't involve a full 8-10 mins development process?
Get some of the solution and a film leader. In ordinary room light put a drop on the leader. 30 seconds later put another drop on it, far enough away to not mix with the first. Do this every 30 s until you have 5 dots (i.e. 2 minutes). Rinse and fix (just until clearing time is fine). You should see a clear progression of dots on the film that get darker as the developer sat there for longer. This will test the stock - I don't know if, without a densitometer, you'd detect the type of 'partial' failure I mentioned above.
Buy some raw chemicals and mix up some PC-TEA or MC-TEA. They work as well as Xtol and last forever as a liquid concentrate.
Marty
A year ago I'd have agreed, but this summer I had Xtol fail on me twice. Mixed with Millepore water (18 Million ohms resistance across 10mm of the water - so purer than the 'distilled' water from a supermarket), with a magnetic stirrer at controlled temperature, in a non-reactive container used only for Xtol and stored in air-free glass bottles in the dark. The only thing I can figure was that this summer was hotter than the last 5 or 6 (probably the hottest since 200/01). It only 'failed' to the extent that it didn't work at 1+3, mixed 1+1 the same solution was fine
[/FONT]
>How would you go about testing it? Is there a way of doing this >that doesn't involve a full 8-10 mins development process?
Get some of the solution and a film leader. In ordinary room light put a drop on the leader. 30 seconds later put another drop on it, far enough away to not mix with the first. Do this every 30 s until you have 5 dots (i.e. 2 minutes). Rinse and fix (just until clearing time is fine). You should see a clear progression of dots on the film that get darker as the developer sat there for longer. This will test the stock - I don't know if, without a densitometer, you'd detect the type of 'partial' failure I mentioned above.
Buy some raw chemicals and mix up some PC-TEA or MC-TEA. They work as well as Xtol and last forever as a liquid concentrate.
Marty
briandaly
Established
Just bought a 5L pack of XTOL.
I think I'll stick with 1:1 for safety. (I've also read elsewhere of 1:3 mix failing).
I think I'll stick with 1:1 for safety. (I've also read elsewhere of 1:3 mix failing).