thawkins
Well-known
Where can I get a starter kit to develop TRI-X in my bathroom. I understand I will need a tank, reels and chemicals. Does anyone sell all I will need in a ready to go kit?
bmattock
Veteran
Maybe not so much anymore. They used to.
If you want to do your own optical enlargement, then you also need an enlarger, trays, and more chemicals.
Otherwise, a changing bag or a room you can make completely dark, running water (really nice to have, not a complete requirement), thermometer. That would presume you'd be scanning the negs you process. Some jugs for fixer at the least, perhaps also developer. Stop bath and hypo clear are optional. Some clips for hanging film up are nice to have.
crawdiddy
qu'est-ce que c'est?
I'm not familiar with such a kit.
But it's easy to assemble the neccessities yourself:
Tank
35mm reel(s) (I assume you meant 35mm)
Developer (D-76 is probably easiest to find)
Fixer (any kind will do)
Thermometer
That's really all you need. Everything else can be improvised.
But it's easy to assemble the neccessities yourself:
Tank
35mm reel(s) (I assume you meant 35mm)
Developer (D-76 is probably easiest to find)
Fixer (any kind will do)
Thermometer
That's really all you need. Everything else can be improvised.
spicoli
Established
Excellent question! My local lab (Black and White, Arlington VA) recently called it quits. That and Ive been meaning to try Tri-X on a more regular basis, having just used a roll last week (that has yet to be developed).
Would love to hear comments on DC area commercial film developers. Chrome?
Would love to hear comments on DC area commercial film developers. Chrome?
pkuglin
Established
A student kit from Freestyle.biz would give you the tank, reels and plastic storage sheets.
Then buy a couple measuring flasks (16-32 oz), a stir stick, temp probe and all the chemicals. I would use milk jugs to hold the stuff. You can buy small batches of D76 developer (or your choice), fixer, hypo etc.
Make sure you buy high(er) end reels. Those cheap light duty ones are the pits to load.
I would hang in in a bath tub to dry (clothes pins etc) to keep dust off it.
Then buy a couple measuring flasks (16-32 oz), a stir stick, temp probe and all the chemicals. I would use milk jugs to hold the stuff. You can buy small batches of D76 developer (or your choice), fixer, hypo etc.
Make sure you buy high(er) end reels. Those cheap light duty ones are the pits to load.
I would hang in in a bath tub to dry (clothes pins etc) to keep dust off it.
Artorius
Caribbean Traveler
Brings me back the the day.lol
Brings me back the the day.lol
I can remember my travel processing kit while with USN CCG1 in Viet Nam. I had a two reel tank, chemicals, thermometer, and a plastic measuring vial.
I once developed film under a poncho in an entrenchment. I had to borrow a couple of canteens of water to mix chemicals and used the thermometer and a Kodak film paper to make adjustments for temperature and time(+85 degrees). I dried my film under said poncho using the short chain from my dog tags to dry. EDIT, Forgot to add, washed the film in Paddy water, no bad effects.
The film went out the next day when HAL-3 choppers came to re-supply us. The film ended up published in ALL HANDS MAGAZINE, and later archived at NPC in DC.
I can't believe I still remember this.
Brings me back the the day.lol
I can remember my travel processing kit while with USN CCG1 in Viet Nam. I had a two reel tank, chemicals, thermometer, and a plastic measuring vial.
I once developed film under a poncho in an entrenchment. I had to borrow a couple of canteens of water to mix chemicals and used the thermometer and a Kodak film paper to make adjustments for temperature and time(+85 degrees). I dried my film under said poncho using the short chain from my dog tags to dry. EDIT, Forgot to add, washed the film in Paddy water, no bad effects.
The film went out the next day when HAL-3 choppers came to re-supply us. The film ended up published in ALL HANDS MAGAZINE, and later archived at NPC in DC.
I can't believe I still remember this.
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Artorius
Caribbean Traveler
Good news now, but
Good news now, but
Back then, we didn't have the advantage of digital, except a few watches and a couple of calculators, they were + - / x. And then you had to pay a premium. My thermoter was a mercuary version for photography. The fastest film I was given was Tri-X 400 and I would push it to 3200, and I had to play the grain game. I loved Panatomix-X, But I used a lot of Plus-x, along with Kodochrome and AfgaChrome. Because of the area, we didn't use much FugiChrome.(Jungle colors were too, close).
Times have changed, but the basics remain the same.
Good news now, but
Back then, we didn't have the advantage of digital, except a few watches and a couple of calculators, they were + - / x. And then you had to pay a premium. My thermoter was a mercuary version for photography. The fastest film I was given was Tri-X 400 and I would push it to 3200, and I had to play the grain game. I loved Panatomix-X, But I used a lot of Plus-x, along with Kodochrome and AfgaChrome. Because of the area, we didn't use much FugiChrome.(Jungle colors were too, close).
Times have changed, but the basics remain the same.
Al Kaplan
Veteran
You don't really need heated water to dissolve D-76. It might take 8 or 9 hours at 20c/68/f with an occasional stir but it will dissolve. Measurement isn't all that critical either. A one gallon packet mixed with 120 liquid ounces or 135 ounces of water instead if the called for 128 ounces won't make a noticeable difference. Same thing when diluting it 1:1. I try to measure the water and the stock developer in the same measuring cup but diluting 15 to 17 or vice-versa is close enough to 1:1. And yes, you can run a second tank load through diluted D-76 by giving it an extra minute.
titrisol
Bottom Feeder
freestylephoto has such kits
Get the ARISTA deluxe one, those reels are a hell of a lot easier to load
Get the ARISTA deluxe one, those reels are a hell of a lot easier to load
thawkins
Well-known
Thanks for all the replies and good information. My local pro lab charges an arm and leg for b&w development and printing. I can do the negatives at home and a friend has a professional quality scanner that I can use to print on. I am now going to Freestyle's site to find what I need. thanks again.
Tom
Tom
mnmleung
Established
I have just been given a pre-loved Paterson Super System 4 tank with reels. I was looking at Hewes reels a while ago. Would they fit in and work with my tank? Sorry if this is a rather simple question. Thanks !
Ming
Ming
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russianRF
Fed 5C User
This is good advice. I'd go so far as to say that if you're buying from Freestyle, be sure to get the PREMIUM plastic reels. They have little plastic tabs that guide the film in when you're first starting to load it. I was *so* frustrated with reels until I got the premium version, and then all my troubles (with reels at least) went away...
shadowfox
Darkroom printing lives
Tom, where in Texas are you?
Have a peek at craigslist if you're near any of the major cities. A week won't go by without somebody offloading their darkroom stuff.
Go with steel tanks and reels, plastic stains and deforms easier.
Have a peek at craigslist if you're near any of the major cities. A week won't go by without somebody offloading their darkroom stuff.
Go with steel tanks and reels, plastic stains and deforms easier.
russianRF
Fed 5C User
That strikes me as kind of an odd observation. I've easily done 100+ rolls, and have not found deformation of my plastic reels to be a problem. And yes, plastic does discolor a bit, but that really has no impact on the developing. It seems like a small trade off, considering how much harder it is to load the stainless reels.
Tom A
RFF Sponsor
I use Paterson reels and they dont deform, even when dropped. They just bounce merrily into some inaccessible space in the darkroom. They do discolor though, but to no detriment of the film. They have to dry completely between loads - otherwise the film sticks.
The stainless steel reels are fine, but they sure deform if you drop them and straightening them out is virtually impossible. Stainless tanks are nice - at least as long as the top is rubber or plastic. The Nikkor tanks with the stainless steel cap is OK, until the cap decides to jam on!
The Paterson System 4 is very good and it is easy to pick up extra tanks,reels etc at swapmeets, E bay, Craigs list etc. They are quite sturdy and I like the fact that you can pour liquids in and out of them quickly too.
If you are doing a lot of color or large volume bl/w - stainless works well as it is not critical to have the reels bone dry (the alternative is to hoard every Paterson reel you can find and stash them - at the moment I have a 100+ of them - just in case. Most bought at camera swap meets, garage sales, camera store "junque boxes" etc - usually for $1-2/each).
Just start with a System 4's 3 reel tank a 3-4 reels. The 1000 ml volume of the system 4 tanks is easy to mix and it virtually guarantees enough developer to get the job done. The 1 and 2 reel tanks are a bit to small to handle in my opinion. The 3 and 5 reel tanks works the best (you can run 1 or 2 reels in a 3 reel tank, without problems - as long as you put in empties to keep "cavitation" to a minimum.
The stainless steel reels are fine, but they sure deform if you drop them and straightening them out is virtually impossible. Stainless tanks are nice - at least as long as the top is rubber or plastic. The Nikkor tanks with the stainless steel cap is OK, until the cap decides to jam on!
The Paterson System 4 is very good and it is easy to pick up extra tanks,reels etc at swapmeets, E bay, Craigs list etc. They are quite sturdy and I like the fact that you can pour liquids in and out of them quickly too.
If you are doing a lot of color or large volume bl/w - stainless works well as it is not critical to have the reels bone dry (the alternative is to hoard every Paterson reel you can find and stash them - at the moment I have a 100+ of them - just in case. Most bought at camera swap meets, garage sales, camera store "junque boxes" etc - usually for $1-2/each).
Just start with a System 4's 3 reel tank a 3-4 reels. The 1000 ml volume of the system 4 tanks is easy to mix and it virtually guarantees enough developer to get the job done. The 1 and 2 reel tanks are a bit to small to handle in my opinion. The 3 and 5 reel tanks works the best (you can run 1 or 2 reels in a 3 reel tank, without problems - as long as you put in empties to keep "cavitation" to a minimum.
shadowfox
Darkroom printing lives
Yeah, deform may be a poor choice of word
The reason I said that is because when I shopped around (used stuff) for tanks back when I got started in DIY developing, I often see cracked plastic reels, and sticky (not washed properly maybe), and almost all of them stained brown. While the metal reels are looking like they never been used before.
Furthermore, I'm glad I decided to stick with stainless steel reels, it does gets easier after a couple of practice rolls. It is not at all "much harder" than plastic reels.
russianRF
Fed 5C User
It is "much harder" if you've discovered plastic first, and are used to the self-threading nature of the plastic reels. I got some stainless reels included with some enlarging equipment I bought once, and they've just sat.
I suspect it's a very personal choice, like underwear, or which brand of pen one uses, or Mac vs. PC. It's not really worth a fight, and to each side the other side seems to be exaggerating the problems. I will say, with complete confidence, that however easy the stainless reels are after a few practice tries, the "premium" Arista plastic reels are dead-simple to load, and are the only plastic reels I've been able to load while they're still a bit damp. I will also say that I realize the stainless conducts temperature much better, and so may be a better choice for those who have a hard time nailing down the temperature.
shadowfox
Darkroom printing lives
And you need to be careful when developing IR-sensitive films with *some* plastic tanks. Good ones like Patterson seem to do ok based on reading some of the experiences I can find online.
I don't think it's a personal choice, it's simply a choice. One that is best made based on facts and experiences.
If you happen to choose plastic first and like it, it's all good, but don't dissuade others from trying the alternative by saying it's much harder without further qualifying it (which you did, btw).
And I'm not at all arguing with you. You and I have our ways set with our preference. But these threads are here for others to see, and some of the viewers may just got started and it's only fair to give them the views from either choice, so they can make their own. Don't you agree?
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Chris101
summicronia
Here's yer kit:
