Developer suggestions for T-grain films

Arjay

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About a year ago, I re-started developing film, mostly Tri-X in Prescysol EF, and I'm quite happy with the results I obtained.

Having come back from long-term use of digital cameras, I am still somewhat struggling with grain and its peculiarities when using a hybrid workflow.

This is why I now want to explore film/developer alternatives that promise finer grain - Kodak T-Max 100 & 400 as well as the Ilford Delta film range. I ran a number of T-Max 3200 films at EI 1600 in Prescysol EF, and I didn't like the results. This combo produces really ugly, irregular and coarse grain. I suspect this is not only due to the film's high sensitivity, but also to the film's T-grain technology.

Can you please tell me what type of developer you would suggest for Kodak T-Max 100, 400 and 3200 as well as Ilford Delta films.
  • I am looking for developers that deliver a viable compromise between fine grain and acutance, as well as reasonably flat contrast curve which would make negatives suitable for scanning.
  • Also, what EI would you suggest for those films if so that they can deliver rich shadow tonality while still offering sufficient highlight detail?
  • Would Kodak XTOL be a reasonable developer choice (I recently picked up a bargain offer for this developer) ?
 
I have gotten good results on Tmax 100 with both D-76 1+1 and Rodinal 1+50.

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Both of the above are Tmax 100 in D-76 1+1

vine-window.jpg


minnich-house.jpg

Both of the above are Tmax 100 in Rodinal 1+50

I get good results with Tmax 400 in both D-76 1+1 and Tmax Developer 1+7

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sara-dukes1.jpg

The two above are Tmax 400 in D-76 1+1

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The two above are Tmax 400 in Tmax Developer 1+7

I think Tmax 3200 really works well only in Tmax Developer. I've tried Xtol and D-76 and didn't like the results, especially with D-76 which was especially bad for tonality.

marys-bar11.jpg


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The three above are Tmax 3200 shot at EI 1600 and developed in Tmax Developer 1+4

For dev times, go to My Tech Info Page
 
First, Delta isn't the same as plain T-Grain. It's quite a bit cleverer.

Second, ALL films are designed to respond well to common developers. Anything you can't develop satisfactorily in ID11/D76 is unlikely to pass the QC tests of a majpr manufacturer without VERY strict qualifications on the box.

Third, current-generation T-Max and Delta are vastly more tolerant than their early incarnations - and Delta was always more tolerant than T-Grain.

Cheers,

R.
 
I use xtol 1+1 for Tmax 100, 400 and delta 100. Tmax 1+4 for Tmax 3200 at 1600.

Others would work too. I'm not sure how different xtol and D76 results are really.

MIke
 
I use Ilford DD-X at the recommended times for TMAX and Tri-X, especially if I'm pushing the film. I also use Rodinal 1+100 for Fuji Acros 100, Ilford FP4+, and TMAX 400. I prefer Rodinal for the slower speed films such as the Acros 100. I should give the TMAX developer a try, especially for TMAX 3200.
 
For TMax3200 I use TMax developer, and for Delta3200, DD-X. The last one is a bit flat film: better for contrasty scenes, and not for low light AND soft scenes... Grainier than TMZ... Any other film I use, gets beautiful, crisp, small grain on Rodinal 1+50 at 16-18ºC.

Cheers,

Juan
 
Arjay, I always use Rodinal 1+50, then control the grain with agitation (more or less).

4879844780_a4669f606b_b.jpg


This is Tri-X, with very minimal agitation (two inversion every 4 minutes). The grain is visible, but not distracting, sorry for the small image, the print is better.

I wonder if this is what you'd call coarse 🙂
 
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I use Tetenal Ultrafin Plus for Tmax400, I think its the best T-grain film developer for this film -crop scanned at 3200 to check grain (Epson V700):

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I can't believe, with all the new technology, that we are still obsessing over grain. Try shooting color film and convert to b&w on the scanner. I think if you watch your times and temps, grain should never be a problem. Unless you are playing around with 3200, then grain is par for the course.
 
Xtol 1:3, continuous agitation.
To date, I have developed the following with good results:
Tmax 100
Plus-X
Tmax 400, old & new
Tmax 3200
HP5+
PanF+
Delta 3200
Efke 25
Arista.EDU Ultra 400
 
Thank you folks for all this valuable information! Sounds like I'm in for a lot of testing. I'll start with the Tmax films, and will then move on to the Ilfords...

I'll report back with my findings.
 
I had a great surprise when I tried TMax developer for TMax3200 because it produces crisp grain a la Rodinal, with a very clean tone and great pushing abilities... For 400 and 100 I use Rodinal with great results.

Cheers,

Juan
 
For slow films , try FX39, for fast films, try DD-X. Generally though, if you come from digital, you should really try to see if you find something among traditional emulsions that might be to your liking. I have done a lot of Tri X in Prescysol, and Tri X does not get any sharper than that. As to the grain, I think it is acceptable, however I found that best tonality was achieved at EI 250. If you want similar tonality, but better sharpness and finer grain, try Neopan 400. I dislike T grain films precisely because they look too digital to me...

Tri X in Prescysol

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Neopan 400 in Prescysol

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Tri X in DD-X
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Can you please tell me what type of developer you would suggest for Kodak T-Max 100, 400 and 3200 as well as Ilford Delta films.
  • I am looking for developers that deliver a viable compromise between fine grain and acutance, as well as reasonably flat contrast curve which would make negatives suitable for scanning.
  • Also, what EI would you suggest for those films if so that they can deliver rich shadow tonality while still offering sufficient highlight detail?
  • Would Kodak XTOL be a reasonable developer choice (I recently picked up a bargain offer for this developer) ?

I notice that your scanner is a Coolscan V (I have the Coolscan IV, which is similar, and I also have an Epson V750). The problem with the Coolscans is that they use a collimated light source (LED) and are therefore more difficult to use with conventional b&w film due to the Callier effect (analogous to using a condenser enlarger in a wet darkroom) so you will probably need to add a bit of exposure and develop for less time than normal.

My own preference is for the V750 which has a diffused light source (like using an enlarger with a diffusion head). Having said this Xtol is probably the best developer for your purposes as it gives soft gradation and is fine grained.
 
I notice that your scanner is a Coolscan V (I have the Coolscan IV, which is similar, and I also have an Epson V750). The problem with the Coolscans is that they use a collimated light source (LED) and are therefore more difficult to use with conventional b&w film due to the Callier effect (analogous to using a condenser enlarger in a wet darkroom) so you will probably need to add a bit of exposure and develop for less time than normal

  • Yes, I am aware that this might worsen the way this scanner reproduces film grain. I have heard of some people using frosted glass inserts in front of the film scanner's collimated LED light source. However, I haven't found any reports yet about available products for my scanner and of any uiser experiences with this product. Has Betterscanning ever made such a diffuser pane for any of the Coolpix scanners?
  • OTOH, your suggestion to add exposure and to develop for a shorter time (pulling) - do you suggest this to obtain lower film contrast?
 
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