Developing 4x5 in my 35mm daylight tank

[Morca007]

Would loading film into my tank as in this picture make sense, or should I fold it and secure it with a hair tie ala the tortilla method?

With the emulsion side in, the developer ought to be able to absorb properly, my worry with doing it this way is that if it ends up sticking to the side of the tank, it might cause problems with the development. Does the chemistry need to be absorbed into the acetate side for proper development?

 

[Chris101]

It looks like solution from the front of the film cannot get to the back, for real mixing. If you did something to let the developer (et al) circulate, it would be better.

 

[Morca007]

There is a bit of space at the top, and I'm planning on doing twist-and-invert agitation.
(It is an Arista Premium 2x 35mm tank, for reference)

 

[Chris101]

In that case, I don't see an issue - let us know (and see!) how it turned out!

 

[Morca007]

I just did a dry (wet) run with my junk sheet and some water, and sure enough, it cozies right up to the side of the tank, partially sticking to it.

My main question then, I suppose, is whether the developer needs to be in contact with the acetate side for even development.

 

[Morca007]

Crop from the negative because my scanner only does 35mm and 120, and I can't be bothered to try stitching scans right now. On the portion you can't see there appears to be a little fogging, or uneven development.
In the future I will purchase a hanger-style daylight tank, but it's good to know this works in a pinch.

Ilford Hp5+ in Tmax 1+4 for 7 minutes.

 

[gdi]

Crop from the negative because my scanner only does 35mm and 120, and I can't be bothered to try stitching scans right now. On the portion you can't see there appears to be a little fogging, or uneven development.
In the future I will purchase a hanger-style daylight tank, but it's good to know this works in a pinch.

Ilford Hp5+ in Tmax 1+4 for 7 minutes.

I tried the tortilla Method a few times and got partially developed negs occasionally. I went to a Besler/unicolor rotary drum and roller base and it was much better. The drum is made for 8x10 paper but it has dividers for 4x5 (mine were missing and I had to make my own.)

This is a pretty cheap route and less messy than some daylight hanger tanks - here is some more info. http://www.largeformatphotography.info/unicolor/

 

[Morca007]

Panoramic scan of the same neg: http://i50.tinypic.com/a2eykw.jpg
I need to get myself a scanner capable of doing 4x5 in one shot.

I'll keep an eye out for the drums and rollers. There's one set on ebay right now, but the shipping alone is $45!

edit: This Yankee tank is only $16, but using 1/2 gallon of chemistry every time I develop film is a little daunting! http://www.freestylephoto.biz/4944-Yankee-Hanger-Type-4x5-Developing-Tank

 

[gdi]

Panoramic scan of the same neg: http://i50.tinypic.com/a2eykw.jpg
I need to get myself a scanner capable of doing 4x5 in one shot.

I'll keep an eye out for the drums and rollers. There's one set on ebay right now, but the shipping alone is $45!

edit: This Yankee tank is only $16, but using 1/2 gallon of chemistry every time I develop film is a little daunting! http://www.freestylephoto.biz/4944-Yankee-Hanger-Type-4x5-Developing-Tank

You may try posting a WTB ad at largeformatphotography, apug or the like for a roller/drum setup. They shouldn't be much more than $50 or so shipped.

I never used a yankee. but I hear they are a pita. I kept looking for a Patterson Orbital, but one never popped up. They get good reviews, but are more plentiful in the UK.

Also, I think you can get decent results with an Epson scanner - I picked up a 4870 with Silverfast for around $200.

 

[dagabel]

A couple of years ago I started using this modified tortilla method (http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?threadid=30099) using tubes of window screen material in a daylight tank, and I've had consistently even development.

Duane

 

[zgeeRF]

I tried several methods in the regular (paterson type) tank before I got my nice Jobo tank, and found that the tortilla /hairband method more often results in underdevelped parts of the upper area of the sheets. Putting two sheets like the one you show in he first picture worked better in my experience. I always kept the emulsion facing up ( inside).
Ultimately a more "dedicated" system (Unicolor, Jobo etc ) is the best solution.

 

[Ronald M]

I work to hard to get an image on film to screw around like this.

develope one sheet in a tray if you must.

 

[Morca007]

Finally took the time to try and stitch a scan together. Any ideas as to what that is on the right?

 

[gdi]

Looks more like a light leak to me.

 

[KenR]

HP Combiplan

HP Combiplan

How 'bout the HP Combiplan tank? I've used one for years without any problems (leaks or streaking). Just don't try to use their little funnel to pour stuff in and out of the tank - I take the loaded reel out of the tank in the dark, pour in the developer and then dunk the reel and start the timer. Put on the lid, start aggitation. Lights on. At the end of development, lights off, take the lid off, pour out the developer, pour in the stop - lift and dunk a few times, then out goes the stop, in goes the fix. Lights on.

 

[ChrisN]

I get on OK with the little funnel on the Combiplan tank, but I do have to remember to open the top fitting a half turn to allow the air to escape. After 50 sheets I've even got loading the holders sorted!